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Posted: 11/5/2008 9:06:48 PM EDT
| hey i got an ak with a painted on finish its like a shiney black. Im looking to get a more mat-black color. i was wondering if anyone knows how to go about refinishing a gun? haha do u have to like sandblast the old finissh off, or do u use a thiner? thanks |
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Removal of the old finish depends entirely on WHAT it is.
Some of the more durable gun coatings, like Lauer Duracoat don't seem to be affected my much of any kind of chemical removal, and are often bead blasted off. I'd suggest testing the finish with a mild paint remover. Pick something that won't cause rusting or etching of the metal. Another item to try is lacquer thinner. It won't harm steel at all, and usually softens and removes most paints. USE IT OUTSIDE. Fumes are explosively flammable. What to re-coat it with depends on you. Some good ones to look at: Lauer Duracoat. It's a super durable epoxy that air cures to a really tough finish. It comes in about any color you could want, and in various levels of satin or flat looks. It requires an airbrush to apply, and Lauer sells a inexpensive kit: Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II. Brownell's sell spray cans of a excellent flat gun coating. The Aluma-Hyde I requires baking in your kitchen oven. Aluma-Hude II is an air cure epoxy that needs no baking. Both Lauer Duracoat and Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II cure over days or even weeks. They can usually be handled and lightly used in as little as 24 hours, but continue to harden and toughen over time. Best to allow at least 3 to 4 days before really handling or using. Upside is, these are really tough finishes if you do your part right. Paint. You can use ordinary Rust-oleum oil-based paint. The only problem with oil-based paints is, the flat paint develops blotchy areas where you handle it, and the Satin paints are too shiny for guns. The blotches are caused by the "flat" paint wearing smoother where it's handled. This looks bad quickly, so I recommend adding a little Satin Black to the Flat Black to to "cut" the Flat and give the finish the same look as factory AK paints. Spray on a good coat, then bake in the oven at 300 degrees for an hour. Other good paints are engine block paints, but these often are glossy colors. Some people have used high-temp BBQ or automotive paints, however some people report these aren't very durable or tough. Ideally, you prep the metal by bead blasting it to give the metal a "tooth" for the coating to adhere to, but you can get by just stripping the old finish off with chemicals. How well the finished job looks and lasts, is how well you degrease and prep the metal, and on how good the finish coat is applied. "Probably" the easiest finish to use if the Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II. I comes in it's own spray can and needs no baking. |
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