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I have a wasr-2 and have mounted a Belarus mount on it. Took a little bit of "convincing" to get it on there though... Later on I removed the weaver side mount so I could mount a milsurp scope. I currently have a Belarus 6X42 that was originally an SVD mount. I ordered a replacement AK-style lower piece from Kalinka for $17 and it works/looks great(not sure where it was made though):  Here's the result. This includes my post-boresighting adjustments:  The bullseye is actually two holes! You really have to know how poor of a shot I am to appreciate this 
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| Thanks, I guess I need to play with it a bit. I tried to put it on at the range and it only went half way on my wasr 2 and 3. Oddly though it fits on my sar 3.h.gif |
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The SVD mount WILL fit if your scope has the smaller front aperature like the 4X24 scopes have, although it technically isn't correct. The Romanian mount has cutouts which allow this, but if you have the larger front area like mine in the picture, then you will need the correct AK mount which I showed you. I also have a WASR-10 that currently has the Rommie 4X24 on it with the original SVD mount. If you use the SVD mount the iron sights are pretty much unusable as the scope is almost touching the rear tangent, which blocks your view somewhat. Eye relief is also an issue sometimes. Remember, these bottom mounts are interchangable, so if you get a good deal on a SVD scope, you can swap the bottom piece cheaply. SOG currently has the Rommies for $89 if you buy 2 or more. Please note that they do not have illuminated reticles though. As for your stopping halfway issue, both of my Rommies (and my SAIGA) were like that when they were new, even with the AK mounts. I think they just need a little wearing in before they operate smoothly. I got bold and used a rubber mallet to persuade it to go on, but do this at your own risk... |
| I also have had the adjustment problem. If you loosen the two bigger screws slightly on the top of the knob, you can turn the middle part independantly of the top part of the knob, and you can move the reticle much further. Remember to re-tighten the screws after you get the sight set. Since there are no real detailed instructions in English for doing things like this, I had to use trial and error to figure that out. I'm thinking of working up some zeroing instructions to post on one of these boards for this. I think the proper way to do it is to adjust the inner and outer knobs until you are on target with the number zero on the small 'tick' mark on the sight tube. If I'm right, you can then use the knob to adjust for long-range shooting or for high winds on the side knob. |
| it says how to do that in the manual on kalinkas website. www.kalinkaoptics.com/Manuals/KOPOSPFixedManual.pdf |
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