AK Sponsor
Posted: 12/9/2010 5:20:52 PM EDT
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Why is it necessary to clean the bore from breach to... the...ummm other end of the barrel. The only rifle cleaning kit I have is a universal kit that covers .22 up to some other caliber. However, neither the loop nor the jag will fit in the barrel. I can use a brush and a mop. I have to use a straightened clothes hanger to push patches down the bore of my 5.45. I don't have anything to go from breach outward.
I know it's mighty easy for you sitting 500 or a thousand miles from me and my bank account to just say go get a bore snake. I know, I know... Just don't. The above listed options are all I have right now. |
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I have to use a straightened clothes hanger to push patches down the bore of my 5.45. I don't have anything to go from breach outward.
why are you using a straightened clothes hanger? you have the correct size cleaning rod for the bore and the cleaning kit that came with the rifle, use that. the body of the cleaning case is the handle for the cleaning rod. as for the entire chamber to muzzle, or muzzle to chamber argument, use what works for you. it really doesn't matter, the object is to get the bore clean. |
| Apparently not the right one. The "kit" that came with the rifle consists of one rod pilfered off of another rifle. It end with a male end (threads on the outside) and the attachments with my store bought kit are all male as well so I can't use the jag and loop which don't fit. If I stick the rifle's rod all the way down the barrel, I can't see it in the breach. |
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Quoted:
Apparently not the right one. The "kit" that came with the rifle consists of one rod pilfered off of another rifle. It end with a male end (threads on the outside) and the attachments with my store bought kit are all male as well so I can't use the jag and loop which don't fit. . dude, all AK cleaning rods have the male ends, that is for the cleaning brush that is with the kit which has the female end that screws onto it. you can't piece and part it with a commercial cleaning brush/jag. there is a slot on that cleaning rod that is where you put a patch through If I stick the rifle's rod all the way down the barrel, I can't see it in the breach.
you have to take the muzzle brake off. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Apparently not the right one. The "kit" that came with the rifle consists of one rod pilfered off of another rifle. It end with a male end (threads on the outside) and the attachments with my store bought kit are all male as well so I can't use the jag and loop which don't fit. . dude, all AK cleaning rods have the male ends, that is for the cleaning brush that is with the kit which has the female end that screws onto it. you can't piece and part it with a commercial cleaning brush/jag. there is a slot on that cleaning rod that is where you put a patch through If I stick the rifle's rod all the way down the barrel, I can't see it in the breach.
you have to take the muzzle brake off. Bro, I do not have a kit that came with the rifle. Like I said, my "kit" consists of 1 rod that we took off of another rifle at the show. with the muzzle brake off, I cannot see the end of the rod in the breach. There is no slot on my cleaning rod. There is a round hole on the muzzle end of the rod, on the end that attaches underneath the muzzle of the barrel, and there is the male threads at the other end. Thats it. |
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You need an AK rod that was made for the version of rifle you have.
You also need an AK butt stock cleaning kit made to fit the type of rod. As example an AK-47 rod can't be used with an AK-74 cleaning kit because the threads are different. The AK cleaning kit will have a patch holder jag and a bore brush. Here's site that shows the various uses of the AK cleaning kit. http://www.novarata.net/Linx310/whyromanian.shtml Cease and desist with the coat hanger. Sooner or later you'll either damage the bore or get a patch hung up in the bore. Personally, I use a good commercial stainless steel cleaning rod with commercial bore brushes and patch holders to clean my AK. |
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Find an ast German "tobacco can" kit for 5.45.
It includes a bore snake, and the combination tool works as a wrench to remove the brake. If you've fired corrosive ammunition and haven't been taking the brake off when you clean the rifle, you'll probably need it. |
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Quoted:
Why is it necessary to clean the bore from breach to... the...ummm other end of the barrel. The only rifle cleaning kit I have is a universal kit that covers .22 up to some other caliber. However, neither the loop nor the jag will fit in the barrel. I can use a brush and a mop. I have to use a straightened clothes hanger to push patches down the bore of my 5.45. I don't have anything to go from breach outward. I know it's mighty easy for you sitting 500 or a thousand miles from me and my bank account to just say go get a bore snake. I know, I know... Just don't. The above listed options are all I have right now. Get a .22 caliber cleaning kit at like....ANYWHWERE! Or better yet, get an M-16 cleaning kit, it will work fine after you slug the slightly-tight bore brush thru once. A clothes hangar? You are joking, right? |
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Another option is to get yourself some kite string. Make a loop on one end, and place a weighted item on the other end to drop down the barrel, like a ball chain connector. All you do then is drop the string in the barrel, place a patch on the string's loop, and pull it through the barrel (from breech to muzzle). Don't use a coat hanger for cleaning the bore. It's going to mess it up.
I've got several cleaning rods including a nice Dewey one piece, along with various bore guides, but I find the string method to work very well, without the need for brushes, jags, and loops, and without concern for damaging the bore. |
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A few thoughts:
1) The reason it is preferrable to clean form breech to muzzle is to protect the crown of the barrel. Damage to the rifling there has a significant detrimental effect on accuracy. 2) But then again we are talking about an AK where accuracy was never a strong suit... 3) A .30 bore snake works fine in an AK-47 clone and a ..223 bore snake works fine in a 5.45x39 AK 74 clone. JUst drop the brass weight in the chamber, shake it out the muzzle and pull it through. 4) Bore snakes however are not God's one and only answer to barrel cleaning - nice as a field expedient, but they come up a bit lacking in terms of more aggressive cleaning and copper fouling removal. 5) A .5.56mm M16 clearning rod works fine, as does any other ,22 cal cleaning rod in either a 7.62 or 5.45 Ak clone. 6) you can use a muzzle guide to protect the crown when cleaning from the muzzle end with a solid rod. |
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Quoted:
A few thoughts: 1) The reason it is preferrable to clean form breech to muzzle is to protect the crown of the barrel. Damage to the rifling there has a significant detrimental effect on accuracy. 2) But then again we are talking about an AK where accuracy was never a strong suit... 3) A .30 bore snake works fine in an AK-47 clone and a ..223 bore snake works fine in a 5.45x39 AK 74 clone. JUst drop the brass weight in the chamber, shake it out the muzzle and pull it through. 4) Bore snakes however are not God's one and only answer to barrel cleaning - nice as a field expedient, but they come up a bit lacking in terms of more aggressive cleaning and copper fouling removal. 5) A .5.56mm M16 clearning rod works fine, as does any other ,22 cal cleaning rod in either a 7.62 or 5.45 Ak clone. 6) you can use a muzzle guide to protect the crown when cleaning from the muzzle end with a solid rod. What he said. Check EE think some guys selling the otis kits for a good price. I prefer to wrap a patch around a nylon brush to scrub the bore. |
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I like aluminum or brass cleaning rods, softer metal and easier on your rifleing and the crown. That link got me thinking about the cap to the cleaning kits. I wonder if the hole in it is to help guide your rod into the barrel and protect the crown. Just have to try not to mess up your threads. I will have to try it, not sure if it could even be possible on a 74.
And I wouldn't want to use a coat hanger, first off you can't ever get it perfectly stright and second the sharp edges could scratch your barrel or the chrome. |
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Quoted:
Another option is to get yourself some kite string. Make a loop on one end, and place a weighted item on the other end to drop down the barrel, like a ball chain connector. All you do then is drop the string in the barrel, place a patch on the string's loop, and pull it through the barrel (from breech to muzzle). Don't use a coat hanger for cleaning the bore. It's going to mess it up. I've got several cleaning rods including a nice Dewey one piece, along with various bore guides, but I find the string method to work very well, without the need for brushes, jags, and loops, and without concern for damaging the bore. Somebody showed me another version of this that I use all the time. Cut off a length of plastic weedeater line, about 18" longer than the length of your rifle from the breach to the muzzle. Use a lighter to melt one end of the line into a blob (I think that is the technical name for it). As soon as it starts to melt flatten the end end against the sidewalk or driveway. On the other end get a good pair of scissors and cut it into a sharp point. Skewer a cleaning patch onto the weedeater line and thread it all the way down the line to the flattened end. Soak the patch with CLP/Hoppes/Whatever, thread the pointy end through the barrel, grab hold of the weedeater line and pull it through. If the melted end is too wide to fit in your barrel trim it until it does, you only need it big enough to keep the patch from coming off the line. This won't solve the major fouling issues, you will need a rod and brush for that. As a field expedient though it works great. |
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