AK Sponsor
Posted: 5/7/2007 12:50:45 PM EDT
| I just finished my first AK build . I used a NDS-3 and a Romy G number matching kit . It is riveted together and has the correct number of parts to use any mag . I've cycled the gun with a loaded mag , everything seemed to work as it should . I have dry fired the gun , checked to see where the safety releases . I can't think of anything else to check . I've build1911's frame up , I've built AR's , customized/modified and/or repaired about every type of modern firearm , but I'm unsure about test firing this AK . Is there any more of a chance that an AK would blow up than any of the others guns I've had to test fire ? .223 is really the only thing in ceter fire rifle I've worked with although I have worked with magnum center fire hand guns , I don't think 7.62x39 would have as much pressure .44 mag . Am I crazy or is there something I'm missing or something I forgot to check ? |
| One round in the mag......Say a prayer.......Pull the triggerhingAfter a few shots with one round in the mag, then put two, then 5, then tear it up if all is OK. |
|
Check your headspace AGAIN - make sure the barrel is clean & dry. Go to the range & load ONE round... sandbag around the trunion if you you are really paranoid (I am). Fire the damn thing with the stock against your leg, face AWAY. Stop - look at everything (especialy the brake if you have one)... all OK? Now load TWO rounds and TRY to make it double (just pull trigger enough to get it to fire). No Doubling? GOOD... you are now the proud owner of a functional AK :) |
|
I would add to that: As others have said, one round in the mag, I stand up, stock under my arm, tilt the gun away from me. Put one shot into the backstop, but watch where the spent casing went and examine it closely. If it's OK, then load 2 rounds- no doubling, time to blast away. Before ANY live fire, do a dry fire function test (no ammo): Safety off, finger off the trigger, rack the BC and let it fly. Hammer should still be cocked. Pull the trigger. Hammer should drop. Safety off, finger off the trigger, rack the BC, let it fly, Pull the trigger. Same as above. Keep the trigger pulled, rack the BC again, let it fly. Hammer should be cocked (still on the trigger). Let off the trigger, hammer should 'clunk' forward just a little (moving from the disconnector to the hammer hook). Pull the trigger, hammer should drop. (repeat a couple of times just to be sure). Safety off, finger off the trigger, rack the BC, let it fly. Hammer should be cocked. Safety on, pull the trigger. Nothing should happen. You are now good to go on live fire test. |
|
Matching numbers SHOULD get you no headspace issues however a poormans way of checking headspace is using a new round. Take the firing pin out of the bolt. Chamber the new round, it should chamber fine. Now take a layer or 2 of masking tape and put it on the back of the round (the face? I think thats what its called). Trim the tape so that its only on the face of the bottom of the round. Now try chambering it, do NOT force it. Do NOT have the recoil spring in place. When you gently slide the carrier forward, it should bind up and the bolt should not lock in place and the carrier should not slide all the way forward. If the bolt DOES lock and the carrier slides all the way forward, I would be careful. That could mean that you have too MUCH headspace. Tight headspace is okay, almost desirable (makes for accurate gun). Tight headspacing is when you can chamber the round however you can't chamber a GO gauge all the way. Loose headspacing is very bad and could cause it to blow in your face. That is a good indicator of good headspace on a budget. Personally I went and bought headspace gauges (I have about 10-11 more kits to build). |
|
Oh DITTO to what Eyegun said... and I'm kicking myself for omiting this. "Read" your ejected cases! You are looking for bulges near the rear (close to the rim) FIRST... Pick up the casing, close your eyes, and just run two fingers across it... feel a buldge? NO is good. Go buy some Headspace gauges. That was not a suggestion. Seriously - I have had gauges save me with MATCHING PARTS kits - and one COMMERCIAL rifle. We like you - gauges will prevent involuntary Plastic Surgery :) A set of these is FAR less than one trip to the Emergency Room. |
|
I hear you can use a live round for the go gauge and just buy the no-go gauge. Take out the firing pin when using the live round or buy a dummy round for the go gauge. When I test fired mine for the 1st time I went to the local indoor range that allows rifle fire-- brass cased ammo only. 1st shot out of each rifle was fired while using the armor plated divider for cover. |
|
I bought a lot of kits and checked a few of them with a go and no-go gauge. Every one that I ckecked went in tight on the go gauge. I hade to apply a little bit of pressure on the bolt carrier for the go gauge to seat. These are all from the Rom. "G" kits. I'm about 2 weeks or so out from finishing some of the kits and will update the results if I can remember to do so. |
AK Sponsor