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Posted: 1/24/2007 7:18:44 PM EDT
| Has anyone done a bulk purchase of rivets from places such as McMasters? Do they offer exact replacements or just similar ones for the rivets that come in the little packages from Tapco? |
Is it recommended to use swell neck rivets? |
Do you have a link? The only rivets i have seen there are going for eight dollars a set which is what Tapco is selling those for. |
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Solid rivets are dead soft, and that's why they 'set', or expand to fill the hole when they are pressed. I have bought McMaster rivets and they seem fine -- I prefer the idea of straight rivets. The whole 'swell-neck' idea just seems like a can of worms. How do you deform a semi-hard reciever enough to get a tight joint while setting a solid rivet? How much residual stress is there at the hole? How about the warped look at the rivet when you're done? The swelled neck won't add any significant strength to a proper rivet joint. The idea that it's stronger because it draws supporting reciever metal into the hole is just silly. |
That's what we are probably going to do but if there is an easier option i'm all ears. As for the quantity, i believe its a pound per rivet size so there is plenty of extra for more builds later down the road or mistakes with the current builds. |
I originally started chucking them in a drill press, but went the lathe route later. Now I cut rear rivets for friends unless they just have to have Tapco rivet kits  
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Being that you already have your rivets, I am a little late on this. But you can get steel rivets fron Grainger or R.J. Leahy Company. Maybe this info will help another reader. http://www.rjleahy.com/index.html http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/guideBrowseMatches.shtml |
This maybe true for one or two builds but when you're building five or more the cost of the rivet pack are not worth it when you can buy in bulk. |
looking at the numbers the rivet heads on these are smaller then the ones at mcmaster and would probably provide a more authentic look. rjleahy - front trunion + trigger guard= 5/32" BODY DIAMETER round .280" hd dia. x .115" hd height rear trunion = 3/16" BODY DIAMETER round .335" hd dia. x .140" hd height mcmaster - front trunion + trigger guard = 5/32" round .290 x .124 rear trunion = 3/16" round .348 x .147 ill have to do some checking but i think these might work with the ak-builder jigs while the mcmaster ones wouldnt becuase the heads were too big. |
The 5/32" work perfect for the front trunnion and TG, but the 3/16" will not work in the rear unless you drill out the stock tang (so called rear trunnion) |
I need a pile'o'rivets and can't afford "kits".
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alot of the bulk rivets are to soft you want them soft but not that soft so you do need to heat treat them alittle the tg rivets are 5/32x1/2 (front trunnion are slittle shorter but they will work for trunnion also or you can trim them) rear trunnion is metric but 11/64x1 1/2 will work or you can turn down 3/16x 1 1/2 the center support is 5/32x1 1/2 |
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I ordered 3/16 x 2" plain steel rivets from McMaster, for the rear turnion and drilled my turnion to fit. Mounted a drill in the vise and used a file to reshape the heads to match the 5/32 rivet for the front turnion. I also used about 15 or 20 rivets and some scrape steel bar to come up with the right length (1.630"). I also took a large punch and put a divit in it to form the heads. The nice thing about buying in bulk is that you have more than plenty to play around with. ALSO The center support bushing can be bought from McMasters. They call them stand-offs or spacers. They are bigger than the originals and require the holes to be set back some but there is plenty of room, or you can clearance them for the mag well or both. You also have to trim them to length. Good luck |
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