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Posted: 11/17/2006 10:51:34 AM EDT
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Looking to do a first time build here. So I bought a Milled Yugo underfolder parts kit, thinking that I could buy a receiver from Nodakspud and be good to go. But looking at the receiver it looks nothing like the other pictures I have seen on here in the tutorials. I have no idea how to even remove the old receiver as there is no rivets to grind off. I take it if you have a milled receiver you need to replace it with a milled receiver? Would I be better to try and return the kit and find a stamper kit somewhere. I have some good skills, but have never done one of these and don't want to mess it up totally. Thanks for any input. |
Almost all the builds (99.5%) on here are stamped with the exception of some very rich people(buying $500 milled recievers) or the very talented gunsmiths (totaly re-making the milled reciever to accept stamped). Yes , if you can return the milled for a stamped and then you can buy a nds reciever.
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Here's the deal with building from a milled kit. The milled kits do not use trunnions - those frames in the front and rear of the receiver shell that attach the receiver shell to the barrel and buttstock. Milled receivers have the buttstock mount and barrel hole milled right into the receiver itself. If you want to build a destroyed milled receiver, you have to do two basic things: Buy front and rear trunnions, and set the headspace - the distance between the breech (the end of the barrel) and the bolt-face. If you don't know how to do this second step then you really have no business trying to build a milled kit. You have to have headspace guages, and you'll have to press the barrel in to eactly the right depth, then re-drill the barrel pin hole. Finally you'll have to insert an oversized barrel pin. This is really a job for a person who's built a few kits before and has the tools and experience to do it. Why not build a Polish underfolder? Even better, why not start with a Romanian G kit like all the rest of us did? They're a LOT easier to build, and the fixed-stock kits remove a big headache that just adds to the complexity of an already-difficult learning curve. I built two Romanian AKM's before I ever thought of doing another more difficult kit. |
Yes, I have already figured out that I got the wrong kit, I am going to get rid of this somehow. No response from the place that I bought this from yet to see if I can return it, but what I am working towards is getting the proper stamped Yugo underfolder kit. |
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I'd hold on to it.There's a milled section repair piece pending approval, @ 5 hour job , and price projections @60.00. Kendwell, could you explain this a little more? Is there going to be a company that will do this or is this a do it yourself thing? Also who is it pending approval from? |
| It's pending BATF approval as a "repair" section, as I understand it. It will require careful measurement, cutting, and welding., Another method is to re-mill the front and rear receiver stubs to trunnion specs. I've looked at that, too, it's an alternative. If anyone wants to set up for that job, there should be a few takers. Good quality mill with DRO should make the process pretty fast, once the jigs are made. |
| Guys, It is pending the ATF sending something in writing to my machinist stating he is not making receivers,he will then make repair plates in batches of 20. depending on what you have (m64, m70 or Russian type III) the price will start at $55 plus shipping for 2 repair plates. If you can mig or tig weld or have someone who can do it this is very do-able with patience. By mid/late Dec I will post a pictorial guide of me building a couple kits. If your kit is cut through the locking lugs DO NOT rebuild. The jig is very simple to build and use.(a heavy pice of flat steel and a 12" piece of keystock welded onto it) I will also post plans if you want to mill them yourself or know a machinist. I am not making money off this so I doubt you'll get them machined cheaper locally. Oh and as for the total length no measurements so to speak are needed the top cover sets the length...There is no headspacing if your kit is matching, no barrel pulling, no riviting. There is welding grinding and filing. A milled gun to me just looks so much nicer than a stamped gun, but its just preference. You can see pics of some of my guns if you search for "milled rpk reweld" in do it yourself section. |
That sounds like a cool project. I liked your pictorial that you posted on the other thread. If you are the one that is going to offer these up for sale I would always encourage the purchaser of you stuff to have their headspace verified with every build, reguardless or matching status. just my $0.02 and as always good luck with the ATF. |
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LongHunter, you are absolutly right, but in the intrest of brevity I omitted the caveat that ALL surplus arms should be checked for headspace. The ATF officer who signed my certified mail neglected to print his name and forgot to record the date he signed for my parts...All I have is a squiggle. But so far I've had OUTSTANDING prompt service by 2 agents and one agent who I think was answering someone else's letter because he surely didn't answer any of my questions. |
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