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Posted: 5/7/2006 9:37:54 AM EDT
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Ok, I just test fired my first build, a Chinese Underfolder. Have a little problem. Cycling fine, no issues. UNTIL, about 12 rounds into the first mag, the top cover blew off. Hmm, odd.. Went to cycle the round out of the chamber and it wouldnt budge. Whacked it open. Here is what I found. http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f34/canopy2k/ak.jpg Im guessing I must have gotten too aggresive with drilling out the rivet and went into the barrel. Am I screwed? Can I weld up the hole in the barrel or tap it and put a screw in there and shape it to the chamber? What do I do? DAMMIT! Brice |
I never took the barrel out since I was doing a screw build. I didnt realize I had drilled into it. I did not drill all the way through it. I know this because I was cleaning it last night and was admiring the mirror finish on the chamber and bore. Guess its all for nothing. So, I have to take it all back apart now huh? SUCKS. Do I have to buy a particular barrel or are the all the same? On the bright side, it is a screw build so it will be easy to get the trunnion back out! =) Brice |
| the down side is if you did go into the barrel your screwed. if you at all drilled into the chamber it's not safe to shoot. and you need a whole new barrel. Being that barrels don't come with kits these days and a new barrel is about $200 you might as well buy a new kit. But this time... Don't screw build it please. I built my kit with a pin punch and a hammer. I now also own some bolt cutters. To press the barrel out is easy as a BFH and a bolt with some pennys under it. For the barrel pin spray it up really good and let it sit with pen oil. Use a big punch. A vise comes in handy but you dont need one. To get the barrel back in use a 1/4 all thread and 4 nuts |
Nope, just the last one. Out of the 11 I fired beforehand, all looked normal except for 2. On those 2, the chamber was obviously starting to go. This is what they looked like. Just a shiny round dot. http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f34/canopy2k/ak010.jpg Guess Ill just buy another kit. F*@K. |
Because it would explain why he didn't notice how deep he drilled... most U-drive and screw builders seem to just drill out the rivet and hammer in the drive or thread the hole without ever removing the barrel. |
You are making a general statement that clearly shows you have no idea what you are talking about. I was one of the original type u drive screw builders and I can assure you that I know how deep to drill and that I measured very carefully. |
I'd be willing to bet that the overwhelming majority of people that have drilled into their barrels have done so while doing a screw build... that's not to say that all screw builders drill into their barrels though. Maybe there are some that have also done it while doing a rivet build but I haven't heard of it happening which is probably because rivet builders know (or should know) that they have to remove the barrel to squeeze the rivets. |
Of course the overwhelming majority of people that have drilled into their barrels were either screw builders or type u drive screw builders. When we rivet build we pull the barrel and there is no chance of drilling into the barrel. I am just damned sick of people who use screw builds being looked down on as though they were second class citizens. The arrogance and snobbery of some people leaves me with a bad taste in my mouth. |
Dale, for what it's worth, I think you might be taking this topic a little too seriously. I also misspoke when I said that I hadn't heard of anyone using rivets that have drilled into their barrels. Some folks who thought they would drill the rivets out and use the barrel as a bucking bar have drilled into their barrels. |
You are correct. I guess I was just having flashbacks to the "easiest build ever" thread that I posted here about the one and only drive screw build that I did that turned to shit. I apologize for overreacting. |
No problem man. It happens to all of us. It's pretty easy to get fired up on these boards. 
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I guessed it was a U-drive (or screw) build because the builder didn't remove the barrel. I was right. I didn't say anything negative about either build. No build snobery here. I let my sar sleep with my wasr. An ak is an ak in my book. |
For the benefit of those of us who missed that thread, are you saying the thread turned to shit or the rifle did? |
The thread turned into a minor shit storm and I asked for it to be locked so that it would go away. The rifle that I built using drive screws is nearing it's 1,000 round mark and still running strong. |
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Not knocking anyone's choice of build method. Whatever gets the job done. But what would have happened had this been a U-drive build? I can see the screw as having the ability to withstand the pressure but I have a feeling the U-drive would/could have became a projectile from the rifle that would have been going in a possibly dangerous direction. Lot of what if's, but I think it could happen. I'd hate to see someone get hurt. I think the U-drive is a good idea but I'd definitely reccomend using a drill stop to prevent barrel damage. Measure, measure again, drill, measure some more. ETA: oh yeah, get a new barrel. |
Yep, not wise in my opinion. Just tool up and rivet it, don't half ass it. I dread the thought of someone who doesn't know what they are getting picking up a U-drive "build" second hand. |
| Not without modifications, like a Romy barrel is a different diameter, but only by a few mm's. It could be used but would need to be sleeved or turned down (i forget which), but im pretty sure a chicom barrel will fit, also you can buy a new one from polytech. Krinkfreak rebarreled a Mak 90 with a new barrel he bought not to long ago. |
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Chinese AKs have a 19mm breach diameter. Euro AKs have a 23mm in 7.62 and 22mm in 5.45. You can turn down a Rommy 23 to 19. This will make it fit, plus the barrel pin slot will be smaller so you can play with headspace a bit. Or www.polytechparts.com./ Good Luck! |
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