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Posted: 3/18/2006 9:27:24 PM EDT
First things first, thanks to Dale for giving us a new way to make building a little easier These are the basic tools that are needed to build (hammer, grinders), a drill press makes things a little bit easier 'but is not necessary a hand drill will do.  this is the set I will be using . These are #8 u drives. stanless stell or zinc plated both are fine the stanless steel has a 80,000 psi rating and the zink steel has a 75,000 psi rating drill bit I'm using is #27, this drill bit can be had at any hardwware store for about $2or$3 if using a #10 udrive kit you dont need a drill bit the holes .the holes that are there should be just fine . some peoplle use loctite be is not needed if you perfer us it cant wont hurt   first we start by grinding down the old rivets ad removing the receiver stubs   next grind the old rivets flush with trunion, this counts for the front trunnion as well. the rivet next to the magwell will be riveted  next insert the rear trunion   now drill the holes a little more than 3/8 inch deep  now place the 3/8 odrive in the holes you just drill into the old rivets. If no rivets are present the kit you need will be #10 Udrives   next start hammering in the udrives til they are nice and even with the receiver  insert the front trunnion into the receiver  I use the original receiver stub as a template for the front trunnion  receive all marked and ready for drilling  drill the marks using # 27 drill bit, same goes for the rear trunnion. If there is no rivet there is no need to drill the, # 10 should be just the right sire for the drive  now that are hole are drilled time to put the udrive in place to be hammered ,when your happy with position of the udrives hammer them in  be careful when hammering not to hit the receiver when hammering the udrives  all done now ready for paint  rear trunnion  the trunnion area next the magwell area was riveted  this intire process from start to finish took about 3 hours I if this is your first time using udrives take your time  |
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I couldn't wait to get home from work to reply to this. Looks great and an Excellent tutorial! But what happened with the hammer in this pic?! 
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as long as they are secure and very snug they will be fine .....no risk of life involved P.S .....how many people have been killed by these builds?? |
kinda hard got to wack them suckas good , as you can see if your not to good with a hammer like me and slip this is what happens if your not to talented with a hammer then , start them in with a hammer then just press them in the rest of the way. use a plate with a divet in it for the head so you dont crush the hell out of it and keeps the heads perfect looking |
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Maybe a "DUMB" question, but.....Here goes.... Instead of wacking the U-Drives with a hammer, could you put the whole receiver in a vice, and use that to drive the U-Drive into the receiver/trunion??? Why, or Why not??? Follow up question...... I have both # 8 and # 10 Drive screws.... SHOULD I drill the old rivits completely out, to rule out the small chance that the old rivit will "break free" and rotate??? And, last, but not least, what size screws are people using for the trigger guard??? Thanks for a GREAT Idea..... |
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im using #6 machine screws for the trigger guard. i used a vise and two washers with divets to install them. i shot 100 rounds today without any problems (none of the u-drives were wiggling out). tbh i think this style of build might actualy hold up well if done properly. i did 3 u-drives with locktyte and one without (accident but a good way to see how they will react) and none of the 4 moved at all. i might have a neudered ca rifle atm but i did shoot it pritty excessivly before it got to damn cold. also as i understand it the u-drives are only holding aginst the forward movment of the bolt to the front truion so as long as the tensile strength of the u-drives is stronger or equivelent to rivets i dont see exactly whats going to fail in the rifle other then not installing the drive screws properly. also i riveted the rear truion instead of using u-drives (just so in the unlikly event of failure its only going to be the front truion after it sheared off the lower front truion rivets.) if someone gets a rifle built this way over 10000 rounds please post for all to know :) |
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