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Posted: 2/4/2006 3:35:04 PM EDT
I have 2 AK74 bolts, I built up a rec with a nice barrel and it did not headspace correctly so I'm going to pull the bolt apart and face it till it is spec.

Even if I didn't need to face it, I would need to pull the extractor for proper headspacing.

I can't get either one apart. The extractor pins will barely move and I have destroyed about 6 punches (the POS HF ones don't count...).

It doesn't look like the firing pin retainer pin holds the extractor as well, but in both cases I have tried the extractor pin first...and it moves about 1/8 inch or less and then binds up. ON one I went ahead and tried to drive out the firing pin retainer pin, and it moved about 1.4 inch and bound up.

Any help here would be appreciated. I figure facing the bolt is easier than to TIG the barrel pin groove on the barrel and re-drill it correctly...



Link Posted: 2/4/2006 4:20:16 PM EDT
Yes, the firing pin retainer pin has to be removed first. It is retaining the extractor pin. I've read of removing metal from the lugs to increase headspace as well. Not that I recommend it, but it is an option.
Link Posted: 2/4/2006 4:41:39 PM EDT
I need some education. Why do you need to remove the extractor to headspace? I did mine with all parts assembled.

Not being a smartass-seriously curious here.

Link Posted: 2/4/2006 6:15:53 PM EDT

Originally Posted By greentimber:
I need some education. Why do you need to remove the extractor to headspace? I did mine with all parts assembled.

Not being a smartass-seriously curious here.




AFAIK, the correct way to check headspace with a headspace gauge is to remove the extractor. This way you are pretty sure that there is no chance the extractor is in the way of the bolt face seating properly.

My 762 builds have always been ok in this regard...I throw the gauge on there, and I can clearly see the parts interfacing correctly and trust my gauge measurements.

In this case (and for the simple reason that I SHOULD BE ABLE TO TAKE THE DAMN THING APART) I need to pull the extractor to remove material from the bolt face using a lathe in order to gain headspace as this setup is mismatched to the short side. I am not suggesting anyone do this, the better way is to re-weld up the barrel pin groove and re-drill the barrel pin hole. However, I want to do it this way since I have a lathe and the barrel assembly went together perfectly...plus I have 2 bolts...
Link Posted: 2/4/2006 6:19:22 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/4/2006 6:27:58 PM EDT by Morning_Wood]

Originally Posted By greentimber:
I need some education. Why do you need to remove the extractor to headspace? I did mine with all parts assembled.

Not being a smartass-seriously curious here.




It's to make sure that the bolt fits flat against the guage. The extractor tension is just another variable you don't need and it can keep bolt from going fully closed on guage. Also every part involved in the headspacing needs to be spotlessly clean.

As far as being short headspaced, if it is just a little short, you can gingerly remove metal from the rear of the bolt lugs, if it is a lot short you need to work that out with the barrel pin or get another bolt. I would do this before I started removing much metal from the bolt face. Removing much in that area can caused pierced primers and a really sloppy extractor
Link Posted: 2/4/2006 6:45:52 PM EDT
Link Posted: 2/4/2006 6:47:23 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Morning_Wood:

It's to make sure that the bolt fits flat against the guage. The extractor tension is just another variable you don't need and it can keep bolt from going fully closed on guage. Also every part involved in the headspacing needs to be spotlessly clean.

As far as being short headspaced, if it is just a little short, you can gingerly remove metal from the rear of the bolt lugs, if it is a lot short you need to work that out with the barrel pin or get another bolt. I would do this before I started removing much metal from the bolt face. Removing much in that area can caused pierced primers and a really sloppy extractor



Agreed, thanks for the input. I think I lack only about 1-1.5 thous.

Link Posted: 2/4/2006 6:48:50 PM EDT
Ok all is well again in AK land... by trying to punch out the extractor pin first, I jammed things up and the firing pin retainer pin got stuck as well. I pushed back in the extractor pin and then removed the other...it came apart ok.

I do need 2 new pins though....

Thanks all...
Link Posted: 2/4/2006 7:10:11 PM EDT
Another tip!

Since you are working an insufficient HS issue, before you do anything get a bunch of different rounds and check HS with those IN ADDITION to your GO guage and use what both tell you. Be safe, remove FP and extractor and don't blow yourself up. Not that you would, just trying to get the safety point across.
Link Posted: 2/4/2006 7:42:48 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Morning_Wood:
Another tip!

Since you are working an insufficient HS issue, before you do anything get a bunch of different rounds and check HS with those IN ADDITION to your GO guage and use what both tell you. Be safe, remove FP and extractor and don't blow yourself up. Not that you would, just trying to get the safety point across.



Yes I tried 3 brands to make sure...actually I consider a pile of brand new, never dropped or chambered ammo in a few brands as part of my kit.

And yes, DEFINITELY make sure the FP is out or fully accounted for. Kits can have seized up FPs that act as open bolt FPs...and if the action is not controlled with a spring...very bad things can happen.

Link Posted: 2/5/2006 12:25:18 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/5/2006 12:27:49 PM EDT by Morning_Wood]
My 7.62X39 Headspacing Kit!

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