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Posted: 1/30/2006 7:20:07 AM EDT
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But if you drill the rivets out altogether, aren't the holes then too big to use the smaller-size (#8s) drive screws? I'm going off of the stickeyed post. Also, I do not plan to remove the barrel so it would be tough to completely drill out the rivets in the front trunion. |
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I agree with Dale... I used a regular rivit on the rear of the front trunion, and two drive screws on the front two on each side. Didn't have to press barrell or anything like that. Don't have 500 rounds through the 5 I built, but about that many through them all  Good luck |
I pressed mine in, but I don't see any reason you couldn't dremel a dimple in a punch and hammer them like that. |
These work well with solid rivets. Should be ideal for the drive screws, too. Page 3150 at McMaster-Carr about half way down the page. Type the page number in the seach box. Mike |
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Thanks for the replies to my question. I have another if you guys have the time. I want to use #8 size drive screws but there are so many different ones, that I don't know which to get. I was wanting to build a Yugo with this method to try it out before I build any others like this. So my question is, Which one of the #8's do I get ??? |
| dont take out the complete rivet. leave the rivet right where it is and just drill down the center of rivet. make sure its the correct depth and just wake with hammer the rear trunion the same .youmight have to use a press . I did but thats only becuase I used 3/8 udrive . I also used udrives for center supports on both side and just dremil the selector side flat enuogh so the selector goes over the udrive if you need some ckeck herear15.com/forums/topic.html?b=7&f=123&t=326228 |
From my DIY Screw Build Thread: www.ar15.com/content/page.html?id=86 Rivet Removal: You will need a set of drill bits, also an automatic center punch helps. First center punch the rivet head, this gives your drill bit a place to start and keeps it from wondering off the top of the rivet or going crooked. Start with a small bit drilling down into the rivet head. Work your way up with progressively larger bits, if your dead center on the rivet head it should spin off. You can also use a chisel or pin punch to knock off the rivet head. Once the rivet head is off, start again with a small bit working up to progressively larger bits drilling into the rivet shank, GO SLOW AND STOP PERIODICALLY CHECKING YOUR DEPTH, DO NOT DRILL INTO THE BARREL!!!! As you drill out the rivet shank it will loosen up and begin to spin. I then took a 3/32 Craftsman pin punch and using a sanding disk in my DeWalt drill I ground the punch down into a makeshift chisel. With this makeshift chisel and a hammer I began to chop up the remnants of the rivet shank. To remove the remnants from between the barrel and trunnion I magnetized a metal scribe and fished out the pieces........you may choose to magnetize the punch just the same. Now your ready to tap your trunnions. |
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Okay weird. I ended up just drilling out the rear trunion rivets, and my rear trunion holes are LARGER than the #10 u-drive screws? wtf? I didn't drill outside the rivet (went down the middle the whole way) with a small drill bit. Then pounded the rivet out. This is a Romanian kit that I got from DPH Arms. Anyone know if they have larger than normal rear trunion holes? Thanks. |
some people have to use 3/8 size u drive screws on rear trunions that have been already demilled |
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Gloftoe.. You are supposed to leave the rivit in the trunion...(drill trough the rivet, and then put drive screw in the whole you made in the rivit..) I don't drill all the way through the rivit, just enough to put the drivescrew in ... Also, I made a hole a little too big on one side...I filled it with JB weld and then drove the screw into that..(a little too big, screw stil fit, but not as tight as I would like...could pry out with screw driver) I have about 50-60 rounds through one..no probs. Good luck |
Quib you are referring to doing a screw build, where you tap the holes for button head screws. What everyone is talking about in this thread is using "U Drive" screws which do not require tapping etc. |
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