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Posted: 12/23/2007 3:27:55 PM EDT
| Well I mostly finished (everything except bluing and wood finish) my first build yesterday with the help of an experienced builder. Upon completion, I noticed that the rear sight block, gasblock, and fsb (entire barrel?) is canted in relation to the receiver. The front trunion is properly seated in the receiver, and the barrel pin insures that the barrel is lined up right, so I know that isn't the problem. So what could it be, and what can be done? I know how the gas block and fsb can be uncanted, but what can be done to straighten out the rear sight block? |
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Romy G build? My 1st build was the same way. I noticed it was canted before I de-milled. It was most likely drilled canted at the factory because the barrel pin can only seat one way once the barrel and trunion are lined up. I would say one way to fix it would be to pull the barrel pin, rotate the barrel assembly to get it straight and then run a drill bit same size as the pin through the hole (taking care to take metal off of the scallop on the barrel and not the trunion) and re-set the pin. I've never tried to tinker with mine however, so there may be a better way out there. I would say if it shoots good and you have no binding anywhere in the bolt/gas piston just leave it be. mfn |
| +1 to what Myfakename says. If you just noticed it now and you can live with it, leave it be. A perfect AK doesn't exist... like military intelligence (oh crap, I'm gonna pay for that comment) I mean, really... is your AK engraved decoratively on the sides or the reciever like a fine hunting rifle? I thought not...LOL Keep in mind what it is... (a fun thing to spray lead into non-living objects... in this country anyway!) |
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Actually, upon closer inspection, it doesn't appear to be the RSB. It looks like the reciever is slightly warped. Looking down the barrel, everything lines up fine with the front of the receiver, but if you compare the rear of the receiver/pistol grip to the front, you can see some warping. It creates the illusion of canted barrel assembly. It's very minor though... I'm just gonna leave it, atleast for now. It's gonna take totally rebuilding it, and that ain't gonna happen right now. I got a Polish underfolder I want to get done first. BTW here is a pic with her "clothes" off... http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2307/2131667941_97d42d0d65.jpg |
| Read some place about warped recievers. The fix if I remeber right was to clamp the front trunnion area in a padded vise and twist the other end with the butt stock installed. Twisting with the stock itself. It read that you may have to twist pretty far to over come the spring back of the reciever before it's staight. I have no experience with this but it sounded like it could work if the warpage was minor. I don't know if the recievers being fixed this way were fully hardened or not and if that matters. If the only option is a rebuild then its worth a try anyway. |
Do you remember where you read that? I was thinking of trying something like that. The warpage is very minor, but enough to be noticable if you look for it. The entire receiver is not hardened, only around the holes. Hopefully there shouldn't be too much spring back, since the entire thing isn't hardened. I think from now on, I am gonna build on DCI receivers rather than using flats. |
| I've looked all over the forums I was browsing, I can't find it. I'm certain I read it and the fix was as I stated, about 99% sure. I'd say if you can lock it in a vise reasonably well without damaging it and "coax" it to go the way you want without undue effort then I'd at least go that far. You built it and I'm pretty sure you will know how much your willing to "twist" on it before you feel it's too much. Like you said, "it's not fully hardend" then I would think it won't take much to get it back in line. Perhaps just crimping your rivets gave it the slight warp in the first place? No worries, if it functions fine and it's not much then it still may be best left alone. |
| A final thought, I'd go easy on twisting any sheet metal part that has spot welds, you don't want to weaken any of them. I'm thinking of the lower rails here. *your rails are going to want to keep the shape they have since their bends give them structure and they are also fully hardened (if you did them right) and will resist twisting with the main part of the reciever. Perhaps the warp "fix" is best left for fully hardened recievers? |
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