AK Sponsor
Posted: 9/28/2007 5:51:09 PM EDT
|
This is for those of you that use products like Moly Resin for your refinishing. How far do you normally disassemble the weapon? Is it necessary to take the entire barrel assembly apart, i.e. remove the FSB, GB, and RSB or is blasting the entire thing and refinishing in one shot the best method. Also, for those of you that use Dura Coat, how far do you take the disassembly before refinishing? Getting ready to do my first refinish job and I'd like to do it right. Any advice that will make my first attempt not suck, or suck less at any rate, will be appreciated. Thanks. 
|
| It is not necessary to disassemble the barrel for either Moly Resin or Dura Coat. Just remember you have to bake the Moly Resin, so you need to make sure your oven will accept the parts before you commit to using the bake on finishes. I have done both with great results, and did not blast either, I just degreased with acetone and sprayed right over the factory finish. The Norrels Moly Resin Flat Gray-Black looks great and resembles parkerizing. I have also used the Dura Coat HK black on an AMD65 and it also looks great. |
|
You can disassemble as far as you see fit, but it mainly depends on what you hope to get out of the refinishing. If you are refinishing just to make it look purdy, just take the furnature off, degrease, and spray. If you are refinishing to get better corrosion protection then disasemble as far as its feasable. However removing the barrel is not neccissary or recomended, as the finish will change the ouside dimentions and reassembly will be difficult, besides which usually barrel to trunion fit is so tight anyway that water isnt capible of penitrating, so who cares anyway? Id just field strip, remove the furniture, and maybe take apart the fire control group, degrease, and spray away. Surface prep such as blasting/degreasing is far more imortant than the degree of which you disassemble. |
|
I would imagine you are not talking about removing the barrel to refinish (since that seems to be irrelevant) and are referring to the other loose parts. If I'm wrong I apologize now for being clueless. What I do is apply a light coat finish to all my parts before I do the build that way all parts have the protective finish and my AK won't rust from the inside out (this is done after removing the old receiver). The only things I don't refinish are springs. It's easy to finish them at that point because they are smaller and all fit in the oven (despite using Duracoat I still bake them). Then after I have built/assembled the AK I do another coat on the outer parts (at this point it is only cosmetic) so it all looks nice and uniform. Of course this method requires doing the build in stages which is slightly different than many build parties out there where it's a race to do the build from the condition it is in when it arrives at your door but I stand by all my builds as being as good in quality as anyone could hope and certainly up for some good abuse (that the AK is built for). |
|
when I do the park primer, I pull it out of the tank halfway through and jiggle the flash hider pin, the gas tube retainer and the lower handguard retainer so they get parked and don't seize. for painting, I lock the lower handguard retainer in place. the gas tube lock I paint in the forward position, then after dry to the touch rotate it vertical and dust it again so I don't get a light spot underneath. I do the barreld action with gas block and front sight in place I'll usually leave the front sight post in, too, as thery tend to get damaged more from removing them all the way then just leaving them be (and they should already be zeroed. leave the piston on, just mask. everything else I disassemble - |
AK Sponsor