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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Lubes ...... (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 3/31/2014 7:29:54 AM EDT
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So, I bought my first AR a few weeks ago (Windham Weaponry SRC). Been reading MANY articles on care & maintenance and the biggest thing that confusses the heck out of me is, ..... LUBE!
What kind of Lube should I be using? I read articles where some guys just motor oil. So ... is that Synthetic motor oil or your Standard motor oil? Then then there's the whole FrogLube, Break Free CLP, Slip 2000, etc ... followers who swear by their products. Folks, just give me one or two Lubes I should use. I'm a firm believer in the K.I.S.S. method for most things in life. |
| Just pick one and go with it, just lube it. I personally would not use motor oil, but that is just me, not saying it wont work. Currently I use slip 2000 and clp break free. They work fine. I also use a gun grease made by slip 2000 for the friction areas. Works great. |
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Another vote for Slip (lube and grease).
ETA: If you want to save money Mobil 1 synthetic and blue can grease at Walmart work fine. I personally think Slip is more effective (and less toxic) so I have no problem paying for that. |
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i used breakfree clp until the bottle was gone with no problems.
now i am using slip 2000 ewl and it seems to clean up better because theres not as much carbon/crud build up and the product does seem to work as advertised. mobil1, ATF or any CLP will be fine but if you dont mind spending a couple bucks more, i'd grab the Slip products as they seem to be worth every penny. have fun with your new rifle!! |
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So, I bought my first AR a few weeks ago (Windham Weaponry SRC). Been reading MANY articles on care & maintenance and the biggest thing that confusses the heck out of me is, ..... LUBE! What kind of Lube should I be using? I read articles where some guys just motor oil. So ... is that Synthetic motor oil or your Standard motor oil? Then then there's the whole FrogLube, Break Free CLP, Slip 2000, etc ... followers who swear by their products. Folks, just give me one or two Lubes I should use. I'm a firm believer in the K.I.S.S. method for most things in life. Have a look at Tetra Gun Grease. It is inexpensive and does what it says it does. Most importantly in my mind is that it actually bonds to metal so the bulk of it is removed meaning dirt and powder have nothing to collect on. I was using Lithium on my AKs and it would collect all the powder and dirt making the rifle a pain to clean. Now with Tetra, its more enjoyable to shoot the AK because its so much easier to clean. Weapon also functions better. My Glocks, 1911s, ARs, and AKs all get Tetra. All I have in my kit now is a tube of Tetra Gun Grease and a small needle oilier that contains a high quality synthetic oil for those few places that should get oil and NEVER grease. |
| Froglube for me. Its a bit pricy but it will last me at least a year or two (cleaning multiple rifles, shotguns and handguns repeatedly throughout the years.) Plus it smells great and can be used indoors. Non-toxic, and It washes right out of all my cleaning towels as well. Makes cleaning a hell of a lot easier too. |
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Any of the respected CLP's is all you need for the AR.Most of the top performers have previously been mentioned in the posts above.
Top of the list in my current CLP preference is: Weapon Shield Slip2000 Gun Lube Break Free CLP For a Lubricant/Protectant : Mil-comm TW25B and/or MC2500 is outstanding.(my preferred aluminum frame pistol lubricants) |
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Mobil 1 does everything you need and then some as far as AR lubrication. It also costs way less than anything mentioned so far, with the possible price exception of walmart grease in a blue tub. You want an oil that takes particulates away from bearing surfaces instead of attracting and holding particulates to bearing surfaces. Most all the other oil lubes mentioned are quite sufficient also, its just they cost more and are not formulated that much different than synthetic motor oil. I have thousands of rounds down range in the fair weather of north Texas and have experienced no detrimental effects. I also use it on all my guns not just AR's. WALDT though.
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Any of the respected CLP's is all you need for the AR.Most of the top performers have previously been mentioned in the posts above. Top of the list in my current CLP preference is: Weapon Shield Slip2000 Gun Lube Break Free CLP For a Lubricant/Protectant : Mil-comm TW25B and/or MC2500 is outstanding.(my preferred aluminum frame pistol lubricants) Don't know if you're interested or not but I have the following Mil-comm products for sale. Absolutely nothing wrong with them, but I'm going back to SLIP 2000. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_7_25/1293847_Mil_Comm_lubricants_and_Break_Free_CLP.html |
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All a gun lubricant needs to do is provide a slick surface between moving metal parts and not dissipate easily. That's it. It's not like engine oils that to be fine tuned to specific operating conditions. In the end, it really doesn't matter that much what you choose, as long as it's some sort of slippery oil that won't evaporate or burn away.
Note that I'm talking only about lubrication, not corrosion protection, which isn't really needed in the vast majority for the vast majority of AR components in the vast majority of situations. If corrosion protection is important to you, then are absolutely are significant differences between different oils. |
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All a gun lubricant needs to do is provide a slick surface between moving metal parts and not dissipate easily. That's it. It's not like engine oils that to be fine tuned to specific operating conditions. In the end, it really doesn't matter that much what you choose, as long as it's some sort of slippery oil that won't evaporate or burn away. Note that I'm talking only about lubrication, not corrosion protection, which isn't really needed in the vast majority for the vast majority of AR components in the vast majority of situations. If corrosion protection is important to you, then are absolutely are significant differences between different oils. I used to fully agree, but after comparing products on my suppressed .22 pistol, I found the additional "carbon breaking down" action of FIREClean to be VERY meaningful. |
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So, I bought my first AR a few weeks ago (Windham Weaponry SRC). Been reading MANY articles on care & maintenance and the biggest thing that confusses the heck out of me is, ..... LUBE! What kind of Lube should I be using? I read articles where some guys just motor oil. So ... is that Synthetic motor oil or your Standard motor oil? Then then there's the whole FrogLube, Break Free CLP, Slip 2000, etc ... followers who swear by their products. Folks, just give me one or two Lubes I should use. I'm a firm believer in the K.I.S.S. method for most things in life. weimerheimer, In a pinch you can use synthetic motor oil if you want but if I can help it none of my rifles receive anything other than Breakfree CLP or Remington (REM OIL). Bothe are consider to be a CLP and is the best for cleaning any AR. Just make sure you shake it good to deisperse the teflon particles. All the others like Slip 2000 and such especially Frog lube I consider to be boutique oils. Just choose the cleaner of your choice and stick with it buddy! Don't get all caught up buying lubes and such that does nothing better than the origional. Impala |
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The only thing is the CLP standard was designed as a jack of all trades. Breakfree CLP cleans alright and protects great but burns off too fast.
I can't speak to Froglube (never interested after reading how it has to be applied). If you mean Slip is boutique in terms of cost, sure I agree but it does last much longer than Breakfree. Only reason I use Slip over saving $ with Mobil 1 is it's less toxic and has better corrosion protection. Over time I found that I preferred a separate lube whatever it may be (separate cleaner and protectant too). I do agree when you say don't get paralyzed buying lubes. Buy one, use it and you'll figure out what you like over time. |
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Froglube for me. Its a bit pricy but it will last me at least a year or two (cleaning multiple rifles, shotguns and handguns repeatedly throughout the years.) Plus it smells great and can be used indoors. Non-toxic, and It washes right out of all my cleaning towels as well. Makes cleaning a hell of a lot easier too. I use FrogLube or Weapon Shield. I have used wheel bearing grease in a pinch and it's what I used for the barrel nut. Works fine if you are a cheap bastard. |
| I have used Hoppes 9 and rem oil for years on my M1A/M1/1903A3 and every other gun I own and use some Super lube on my bolts and never had a issue but I am new to the AR world like I have had my Spikes Carbine for only a day but am going to try what i have been using and see what happens |
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Just about any low viscosity aerosol spray lube works fine for me. Spray lubricants seem to penetrate and disperse easier than drops or rag applied oil. Spray the lube into the nooks and crannies of the BCG and run it wet.
Bearing or brake grease works, but grease gets pretty gummy at winter temps around my place. Grease is also messier when cleaning up the gun. Snug15 |
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Mobil 1 does everything you need and then some as far as AR lubrication. It also costs way less than anything mentioned so far, with the possible price exception of walmart grease in a blue tub. You want an oil that takes particulates away from bearing surfaces instead of attracting and holding particulates to bearing surfaces. Most all the other oil lubes mentioned are quite sufficient also, its just they cost more and are not formulated that much different than synthetic motor oil. I have thousands of rounds down range in the fair weather of north Texas and have experienced no detrimental effects. I also use it on all my guns not just AR's. WALDT though. This has been my experience as well. I have used most stuff on the market, it will all work as a lube, some works better to protect against corrosion, but they will do a good enough job. Mobil 1 works great, its cheap, it stays wet longer than anything else I have used, and I find its easier to clean after shooting. Mobil 1 seems to keep the carbon in suspension and just wipes off. |
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I've used Mpro-7 for years and found it works best for me.
I've used in the past: Hoppes #9 Gun butter breakfree clp froglube Here is a great video showing you the oils in comparison. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uOB5eCReAQY also http://www.frfrogspad.com/cleaners.htm |
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This has been my experience as well. I have used most stuff on the market, it will all work as a lube, some works better to protect against corrosion, but they will do a good enough job. Mobil 1 works great, its cheap, it stays wet longer than anything else I have used, and I find its easier to clean after shooting. Mobil 1 seems to keep the carbon in suspension and just wipes off. Quoted:
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Mobil 1 does everything you need and then some as far as AR lubrication. It also costs way less than anything mentioned so far, with the possible price exception of walmart grease in a blue tub. You want an oil that takes particulates away from bearing surfaces instead of attracting and holding particulates to bearing surfaces. Most all the other oil lubes mentioned are quite sufficient also, its just they cost more and are not formulated that much different than synthetic motor oil. I have thousands of rounds down range in the fair weather of north Texas and have experienced no detrimental effects. I also use it on all my guns not just AR's. WALDT though. This has been my experience as well. I have used most stuff on the market, it will all work as a lube, some works better to protect against corrosion, but they will do a good enough job. Mobil 1 works great, its cheap, it stays wet longer than anything else I have used, and I find its easier to clean after shooting. Mobil 1 seems to keep the carbon in suspension and just wipes off. +1 definitely stays wetter longer too |
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For lubrication I use a custom moly grease that isn't lithium or petroleum based. It contains 66-70% molybdenum disulfide with a particle size of only .4 to .5 microns. The synthetic oil carrier binder is rated from -190 to 490+ degrees but if the temp rating is exceeded, it simply will evaporite leaving the moly in place. Stuff is super slick with a coefficient of friction of .03. It's also safe for dissimilar metal use.
For oil I use another custom made formulation that is designed to lubricate and prevent corrosion. It's also darn good at removing rust and grease as well. It's rated for use from -125 to 440+ degrees and has a coefficient of friction of .08 to .09. Its solvent free so its plastic safe. I myself don't know of another firearm oil with specs like that but if anyone does I wanna know! Same for the moly grease! |
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For lubrication I use a custom moly grease that isn't lithium or petroleum based. It contains 66-70% molybdenum disulfide with a particle size of only .4 to .5 microns. The synthetic oil carrier binder is rated from -190 to 490+ degrees but if the temp rating is exceeded, it simply will evaporite leaving the moly in place. Stuff is super slick with a coefficient of friction of .03. It's also safe for dissimilar metal use. For oil I use another custom made formulation that is designed to lubricate and prevent corrosion. It's also darn good at removing rust and grease as well. It's rated for use from -125 to 440+ degrees and has a coefficient of friction of .08 to .09. Its solvent free so its plastic safe. I myself don't know of another firearm oil with specs like that but if anyone does I wanna know! Same for the moly grease! Folks ..... we have a Mechanical Engineer on our hands. I sense ....... Penn State Alumni College of Engineering? |
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Folks ..... we have a Mechanical Engineer on our hands. I sense ....... Penn State Alumni College of Engineering? Quoted:
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For lubrication I use a custom moly grease that isn't lithium or petroleum based. It contains 66-70% molybdenum disulfide with a particle size of only .4 to .5 microns. The synthetic oil carrier binder is rated from -190 to 490+ degrees but if the temp rating is exceeded, it simply will evaporite leaving the moly in place. Stuff is super slick with a coefficient of friction of .03. It's also safe for dissimilar metal use. For oil I use another custom made formulation that is designed to lubricate and prevent corrosion. It's also darn good at removing rust and grease as well. It's rated for use from -125 to 440+ degrees and has a coefficient of friction of .08 to .09. Its solvent free so its plastic safe. I myself don't know of another firearm oil with specs like that but if anyone does I wanna know! Same for the moly grease! Folks ..... we have a Mechanical Engineer on our hands. I sense ....... Penn State Alumni College of Engineering? Not an engineer just someone who knows about lubricants :). |
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Folks ..... we have a Mechanical Engineer on our hands. I sense ....... Penn State Alumni College of Engineering? Quoted:
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For lubrication I use a custom moly grease that isn't lithium or petroleum based. It contains 66-70% molybdenum disulfide with a particle size of only .4 to .5 microns. The synthetic oil carrier binder is rated from -190 to 490+ degrees but if the temp rating is exceeded, it simply will evaporite leaving the moly in place. Stuff is super slick with a coefficient of friction of .03. It's also safe for dissimilar metal use. For oil I use another custom made formulation that is designed to lubricate and prevent corrosion. It's also darn good at removing rust and grease as well. It's rated for use from -125 to 440+ degrees and has a coefficient of friction of .08 to .09. Its solvent free so its plastic safe. I myself don't know of another firearm oil with specs like that but if anyone does I wanna know! Same for the moly grease! Folks ..... we have a Mechanical Engineer on our hands. I sense ....... Penn State Alumni College of Engineering? I think you mean Chemical Engineer. As far as lube goes for me. A pound of #2 red lithium high pressure and high temp grease for my BCG, rails on my semi auto pistols, and lugs on the bolt on my Savage Model 11works just fine and it cost me $4.99 at Autozone. I do keep a precision oiler sitting around with whatever motor oil I had at the time. Super Tech 5w-20 I think. I personally can't bring myself to believe that any "gun oil" has better lubricating properties than motor oil that keeps an engine spinning thousands of RPMs for potentially hours on end. I will say this about grease. I was amazed how different my pistols felt recoil wise with a light grease. My reloads went from having a heavy recoil to feeling like weak factory FMJs. Kind of like Brian Enos claims about his Slide Glide http://brianenos.com/pages/slide-glide.html Just FAR cheaper, and I can't imagine his is really any better. |
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I think you mean Chemical Engineer. As far as lube goes for me. A pound of #2 red lithium high pressure and high temp grease for my BCG, rails on my semi auto pistols, and lugs on the bolt on my Savage Model 11works just fine and it cost me $4.99 at Autozone. I do keep a precision oiler sitting around with whatever motor oil I had at the time. Super Tech 5w-20 I think. I personally can't bring myself to believe that any "gun oil" has better lubricating properties than motor oil that keeps an engine spinning thousands of RPMs for potentially hours on end. I will say this about grease. I was amazed how different my pistols felt recoil wise with a light grease. My reloads went from having a heavy recoil to feeling like weak factory FMJs. Kind of like Brian Enos claims about his Slide Glide http://brianenos.com/pages/slide-glide.html Just FAR cheaper, and I can't imagine his is really any better. Quoted:
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For lubrication I use a custom moly grease that isn't lithium or petroleum based. It contains 66-70% molybdenum disulfide with a particle size of only .4 to .5 microns. The synthetic oil carrier binder is rated from -190 to 490+ degrees but if the temp rating is exceeded, it simply will evaporite leaving the moly in place. Stuff is super slick with a coefficient of friction of .03. It's also safe for dissimilar metal use. For oil I use another custom made formulation that is designed to lubricate and prevent corrosion. It's also darn good at removing rust and grease as well. It's rated for use from -125 to 440+ degrees and has a coefficient of friction of .08 to .09. Its solvent free so its plastic safe. I myself don't know of another firearm oil with specs like that but if anyone does I wanna know! Same for the moly grease! Folks ..... we have a Mechanical Engineer on our hands. I sense ....... Penn State Alumni College of Engineering? I think you mean Chemical Engineer. As far as lube goes for me. A pound of #2 red lithium high pressure and high temp grease for my BCG, rails on my semi auto pistols, and lugs on the bolt on my Savage Model 11works just fine and it cost me $4.99 at Autozone. I do keep a precision oiler sitting around with whatever motor oil I had at the time. Super Tech 5w-20 I think. I personally can't bring myself to believe that any "gun oil" has better lubricating properties than motor oil that keeps an engine spinning thousands of RPMs for potentially hours on end. I will say this about grease. I was amazed how different my pistols felt recoil wise with a light grease. My reloads went from having a heavy recoil to feeling like weak factory FMJs. Kind of like Brian Enos claims about his Slide Glide http://brianenos.com/pages/slide-glide.html Just FAR cheaper, and I can't imagine his is really any better. Guaranteed that FIREClean works better on an M4 than Mobil 1 or whatever motor oil you are using. Your analogy makes no sense. It's like saying "blood keeps my body going for 70 years +-, I'll put it in my engine! Heart/Engine, both have valves and can develop sludge. Blood FTW!" Makes no sense. A heart is not an engine, and an engine is not a firearm. |
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Guaranteed that FIREClean works better on an M4 than Mobil 1 or whatever motor oil you are using. Your analogy makes no sense. It's like saying "blood keeps my body going for 70 years +-, I'll put it in my engine! Heart/Engine, both have valves and can develop sludge. Blood FTW!" Makes no sense. A heart is not an engine, and an engine is not a firearm. Quoted:
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For lubrication I use a custom moly grease that isn't lithium or petroleum based. It contains 66-70% molybdenum disulfide with a particle size of only .4 to .5 microns. The synthetic oil carrier binder is rated from -190 to 490+ degrees but if the temp rating is exceeded, it simply will evaporite leaving the moly in place. Stuff is super slick with a coefficient of friction of .03. It's also safe for dissimilar metal use. For oil I use another custom made formulation that is designed to lubricate and prevent corrosion. It's also darn good at removing rust and grease as well. It's rated for use from -125 to 440+ degrees and has a coefficient of friction of .08 to .09. Its solvent free so its plastic safe. I myself don't know of another firearm oil with specs like that but if anyone does I wanna know! Same for the moly grease! Folks ..... we have a Mechanical Engineer on our hands. I sense ....... Penn State Alumni College of Engineering? I think you mean Chemical Engineer. As far as lube goes for me. A pound of #2 red lithium high pressure and high temp grease for my BCG, rails on my semi auto pistols, and lugs on the bolt on my Savage Model 11works just fine and it cost me $4.99 at Autozone. I do keep a precision oiler sitting around with whatever motor oil I had at the time. Super Tech 5w-20 I think. I personally can't bring myself to believe that any "gun oil" has better lubricating properties than motor oil that keeps an engine spinning thousands of RPMs for potentially hours on end. I will say this about grease. I was amazed how different my pistols felt recoil wise with a light grease. My reloads went from having a heavy recoil to feeling like weak factory FMJs. Kind of like Brian Enos claims about his Slide Glide http://brianenos.com/pages/slide-glide.html Just FAR cheaper, and I can't imagine his is really any better. Guaranteed that FIREClean works better on an M4 than Mobil 1 or whatever motor oil you are using. Your analogy makes no sense. It's like saying "blood keeps my body going for 70 years +-, I'll put it in my engine! Heart/Engine, both have valves and can develop sludge. Blood FTW!" Makes no sense. A heart is not an engine, and an engine is not a firearm. Do you know where I can find the specs on fireclean like temp rating and friction coefficient? I agree motor oil isn't meant for a firearm nor should it be used in/on one! You have to be really careful on what you put on your guns. I remember a while back (hopefully no one is doing this anymore) guys using Moly fortified grease on there guns. Just because it's fortified with moly doesn't mean it will work better than anything. All of those fortified greases will contain a max of 5% or less moly by weight. Also just because the msds sheet doesn't mention graphite doesn't mean it's not in it! Many guns these days are made from dissimilar metals and using something that can make the two react, will not be pretty. If anyone does a lot of shooting and wants to try out the best moly grease and lubricating/corrosion preventative oil let me know. I'll send you some for free (can only do this for 3 people). |
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Guaranteed that FIREClean works better on an M4 than Mobil 1 or whatever motor oil you are using. Your analogy makes no sense. It's like saying "blood keeps my body going for 70 years +-, I'll put it in my engine! Heart/Engine, both have valves and can develop sludge. Blood FTW!" Makes no sense. A heart is not an engine, and an engine is not a firearm. Quoted:
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For lubrication I use a custom moly grease that isn't lithium or petroleum based. It contains 66-70% molybdenum disulfide with a particle size of only .4 to .5 microns. The synthetic oil carrier binder is rated from -190 to 490+ degrees but if the temp rating is exceeded, it simply will evaporite leaving the moly in place. Stuff is super slick with a coefficient of friction of .03. It's also safe for dissimilar metal use. For oil I use another custom made formulation that is designed to lubricate and prevent corrosion. It's also darn good at removing rust and grease as well. It's rated for use from -125 to 440+ degrees and has a coefficient of friction of .08 to .09. Its solvent free so its plastic safe. I myself don't know of another firearm oil with specs like that but if anyone does I wanna know! Same for the moly grease! Folks ..... we have a Mechanical Engineer on our hands. I sense ....... Penn State Alumni College of Engineering? I think you mean Chemical Engineer. As far as lube goes for me. A pound of #2 red lithium high pressure and high temp grease for my BCG, rails on my semi auto pistols, and lugs on the bolt on my Savage Model 11works just fine and it cost me $4.99 at Autozone. I do keep a precision oiler sitting around with whatever motor oil I had at the time. Super Tech 5w-20 I think. I personally can't bring myself to believe that any "gun oil" has better lubricating properties than motor oil that keeps an engine spinning thousands of RPMs for potentially hours on end. I will say this about grease. I was amazed how different my pistols felt recoil wise with a light grease. My reloads went from having a heavy recoil to feeling like weak factory FMJs. Kind of like Brian Enos claims about his Slide Glide http://brianenos.com/pages/slide-glide.html Just FAR cheaper, and I can't imagine his is really any better. Guaranteed that FIREClean works better on an M4 than Mobil 1 or whatever motor oil you are using. Your analogy makes no sense. It's like saying "blood keeps my body going for 70 years +-, I'll put it in my engine! Heart/Engine, both have valves and can develop sludge. Blood FTW!" Makes no sense. A heart is not an engine, and an engine is not a firearm. I'll take that bet all day anyday. I have tried them all and nothing stays on your rifle like mobil1. I am talking almost 4k rounds later and the bcg, while dirty, is still wet like teen girl |
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Guaranteed that FIREClean works better on an M4 than Mobil 1 or whatever motor oil you are using. Your analogy makes no sense. It's like saying "blood keeps my body going for 70 years +-, I'll put it in my engine! Heart/Engine, both have valves and can develop sludge. Blood FTW!" Makes no sense. A heart is not an engine, and an engine is not a firearm. Quoted:
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For lubrication I use a custom moly grease that isn't lithium or petroleum based. It contains 66-70% molybdenum disulfide with a particle size of only .4 to .5 microns. The synthetic oil carrier binder is rated from -190 to 490+ degrees but if the temp rating is exceeded, it simply will evaporite leaving the moly in place. Stuff is super slick with a coefficient of friction of .03. It's also safe for dissimilar metal use. For oil I use another custom made formulation that is designed to lubricate and prevent corrosion. It's also darn good at removing rust and grease as well. It's rated for use from -125 to 440+ degrees and has a coefficient of friction of .08 to .09. Its solvent free so its plastic safe. I myself don't know of another firearm oil with specs like that but if anyone does I wanna know! Same for the moly grease! Folks ..... we have a Mechanical Engineer on our hands. I sense ....... Penn State Alumni College of Engineering? I think you mean Chemical Engineer. As far as lube goes for me. A pound of #2 red lithium high pressure and high temp grease for my BCG, rails on my semi auto pistols, and lugs on the bolt on my Savage Model 11works just fine and it cost me $4.99 at Autozone. I do keep a precision oiler sitting around with whatever motor oil I had at the time. Super Tech 5w-20 I think. I personally can't bring myself to believe that any "gun oil" has better lubricating properties than motor oil that keeps an engine spinning thousands of RPMs for potentially hours on end. I will say this about grease. I was amazed how different my pistols felt recoil wise with a light grease. My reloads went from having a heavy recoil to feeling like weak factory FMJs. Kind of like Brian Enos claims about his Slide Glide http://brianenos.com/pages/slide-glide.html Just FAR cheaper, and I can't imagine his is really any better. Guaranteed that FIREClean works better on an M4 than Mobil 1 or whatever motor oil you are using. Your analogy makes no sense. It's like saying "blood keeps my body going for 70 years +-, I'll put it in my engine! Heart/Engine, both have valves and can develop sludge. Blood FTW!" Makes no sense. A heart is not an engine, and an engine is not a firearm. My analogy makes perfect sense. Both are used to lubricate metal parts that are moving against each other. A piston reciprocating in the cylinder of an engine is essentially doing the same thing as a bcg. Now if I made the claim maple syrup was a good lubricant, you'd be right in saying that my analogy is off. Now I don't dispute firecleans ability to breakdown and repel carbon. I've never used it to know, nor did I single out any one gun lube. I just doubt it lubricates better than a motor oil that can lubricate my engine spinning far faster for 7500 miles between recommended changes. My daily commute to and from work is good for 120,000 revolutions of my engine at minimum. Highway speed my car runs at about 2000 rpms. 30 minute drive to and from work. Do you feel fireclean could properly keep a bcg lubed for that many cycles every hour? |
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My analogy makes perfect sense. Both are used to lubricate metal parts that are moving against each other. A piston reciprocating in the cylinder of an engine is essentially doing the same thing as a bcg. Now if I made the claim maple syrup was a good lubricant, you'd be right in saying that my analogy is off. Now I don't dispute firecleans ability to breakdown and repel carbon. I've never used it to know, nor did I single out any one gun lube. I just doubt it lubricates better than a motor oil that can lubricate my engine spinning far faster for 7500 miles between recommended changes. My daily commute to and from work is good for 120,000 revolutions of my engine at minimum. Highway speed my car runs at about 2000 rpms. 30 minute drive to and from work. Do you feel fireclean could properly keep a bcg lubed for that many cycles every hour? Quoted:
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For lubrication I use a custom moly grease that isn't lithium or petroleum based. It contains 66-70% molybdenum disulfide with a particle size of only .4 to .5 microns. The synthetic oil carrier binder is rated from -190 to 490+ degrees but if the temp rating is exceeded, it simply will evaporite leaving the moly in place. Stuff is super slick with a coefficient of friction of .03. It's also safe for dissimilar metal use. For oil I use another custom made formulation that is designed to lubricate and prevent corrosion. It's also darn good at removing rust and grease as well. It's rated for use from -125 to 440+ degrees and has a coefficient of friction of .08 to .09. Its solvent free so its plastic safe. I myself don't know of another firearm oil with specs like that but if anyone does I wanna know! Same for the moly grease! Folks ..... we have a Mechanical Engineer on our hands. I sense ....... Penn State Alumni College of Engineering? I think you mean Chemical Engineer. As far as lube goes for me. A pound of #2 red lithium high pressure and high temp grease for my BCG, rails on my semi auto pistols, and lugs on the bolt on my Savage Model 11works just fine and it cost me $4.99 at Autozone. I do keep a precision oiler sitting around with whatever motor oil I had at the time. Super Tech 5w-20 I think. I personally can't bring myself to believe that any "gun oil" has better lubricating properties than motor oil that keeps an engine spinning thousands of RPMs for potentially hours on end. I will say this about grease. I was amazed how different my pistols felt recoil wise with a light grease. My reloads went from having a heavy recoil to feeling like weak factory FMJs. Kind of like Brian Enos claims about his Slide Glide http://brianenos.com/pages/slide-glide.html Just FAR cheaper, and I can't imagine his is really any better. Guaranteed that FIREClean works better on an M4 than Mobil 1 or whatever motor oil you are using. Your analogy makes no sense. It's like saying "blood keeps my body going for 70 years +-, I'll put it in my engine! Heart/Engine, both have valves and can develop sludge. Blood FTW!" Makes no sense. A heart is not an engine, and an engine is not a firearm. My analogy makes perfect sense. Both are used to lubricate metal parts that are moving against each other. A piston reciprocating in the cylinder of an engine is essentially doing the same thing as a bcg. Now if I made the claim maple syrup was a good lubricant, you'd be right in saying that my analogy is off. Now I don't dispute firecleans ability to breakdown and repel carbon. I've never used it to know, nor did I single out any one gun lube. I just doubt it lubricates better than a motor oil that can lubricate my engine spinning far faster for 7500 miles between recommended changes. My daily commute to and from work is good for 120,000 revolutions of my engine at minimum. Highway speed my car runs at about 2000 rpms. 30 minute drive to and from work. Do you feel fireclean could properly keep a bcg lubed for that many cycles every hour? I have no experience with fireclean and won't use/try any lubricating oil or grease without seeing full specs first (most won't provide this). Mobile 1 has a coefficient of friction (like other synthetic motor oils) of around .12. The short answer here is yes there are firearm lubricants that have better coefficients and the added ability of preventing corrosion which motor oil won't. The only corrosion preventative motor oil will give you is if you apply a lot and create a barrier on the metal. This IMO is not enough to be full proof. Now should you stop using motor oil on your guns? That is simply up to you of course :). |
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My analogy makes perfect sense. Both are used to lubricate metal parts that are moving against each other. A piston reciprocating in the cylinder of an engine is essentially doing the same thing as a bcg. Now if I made the claim maple syrup was a good lubricant, you'd be right in saying that my analogy is off. Now I don't dispute firecleans ability to breakdown and repel carbon. I've never used it to know, nor did I single out any one gun lube. I just doubt it lubricates better than a motor oil that can lubricate my engine spinning far faster for 7500 miles between recommended changes. My daily commute to and from work is good for 120,000 revolutions of my engine at minimum. Highway speed my car runs at about 2000 rpms. 30 minute drive to and from work. Do you feel fireclean could properly keep a bcg lubed for that many cycles every hour? Quoted:
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For lubrication I use a custom moly grease that isn't lithium or petroleum based. It contains 66-70% molybdenum disulfide with a particle size of only .4 to .5 microns. The synthetic oil carrier binder is rated from -190 to 490+ degrees but if the temp rating is exceeded, it simply will evaporite leaving the moly in place. Stuff is super slick with a coefficient of friction of .03. It's also safe for dissimilar metal use. For oil I use another custom made formulation that is designed to lubricate and prevent corrosion. It's also darn good at removing rust and grease as well. It's rated for use from -125 to 440+ degrees and has a coefficient of friction of .08 to .09. Its solvent free so its plastic safe. I myself don't know of another firearm oil with specs like that but if anyone does I wanna know! Same for the moly grease! Folks ..... we have a Mechanical Engineer on our hands. I sense ....... Penn State Alumni College of Engineering? I think you mean Chemical Engineer. As far as lube goes for me. A pound of #2 red lithium high pressure and high temp grease for my BCG, rails on my semi auto pistols, and lugs on the bolt on my Savage Model 11works just fine and it cost me $4.99 at Autozone. I do keep a precision oiler sitting around with whatever motor oil I had at the time. Super Tech 5w-20 I think. I personally can't bring myself to believe that any "gun oil" has better lubricating properties than motor oil that keeps an engine spinning thousands of RPMs for potentially hours on end. I will say this about grease. I was amazed how different my pistols felt recoil wise with a light grease. My reloads went from having a heavy recoil to feeling like weak factory FMJs. Kind of like Brian Enos claims about his Slide Glide http://brianenos.com/pages/slide-glide.html Just FAR cheaper, and I can't imagine his is really any better. Guaranteed that FIREClean works better on an M4 than Mobil 1 or whatever motor oil you are using. Your analogy makes no sense. It's like saying "blood keeps my body going for 70 years +-, I'll put it in my engine! Heart/Engine, both have valves and can develop sludge. Blood FTW!" Makes no sense. A heart is not an engine, and an engine is not a firearm. My analogy makes perfect sense. Both are used to lubricate metal parts that are moving against each other. A piston reciprocating in the cylinder of an engine is essentially doing the same thing as a bcg. Now if I made the claim maple syrup was a good lubricant, you'd be right in saying that my analogy is off. Now I don't dispute firecleans ability to breakdown and repel carbon. I've never used it to know, nor did I single out any one gun lube. I just doubt it lubricates better than a motor oil that can lubricate my engine spinning far faster for 7500 miles between recommended changes. My daily commute to and from work is good for 120,000 revolutions of my engine at minimum. Highway speed my car runs at about 2000 rpms. 30 minute drive to and from work. Do you feel fireclean could properly keep a bcg lubed for that many cycles every hour? Thing is, a gun doesn't continuously run the oil through an oil filter, and into a pan to cool a bit before being recycled. Not saying that Mobil1 isnt fantastic for guns, just saying it is different. |
[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Lubes ...... (Page 1 of 2)
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