AR Sponsor
[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Using motor oil for lube (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 2/3/2014 9:51:39 PM EDT
|
Ive read that many people use motor oil for gun lubricant with great success.
I am curious about trying this. However I am curious is there a certain brand & weight that people use? Thanks. |
|
A lot of people use Mobil 1.
I don't use motor oil as a rifle lube, but if I did, I would get a) the highest viscosity available and b) the narrowest viscosity spread (10W-30 versus 15W-50). Higher viscosity generally translates into better high temp performance. The greater the viscosity spread, the more viscosity index improvers there are in the oil. Since VI improvers aren't really oil (but molecules designed to alter the viscosity of the rest of the oil as a function of temperature), less is better in an application where they aren't necessary at all. TL;DR: just about anything "oily" will yield "great success". |
|
Quoted:
If the motor oil reacts to water, your AR will be sluggish in rainy conditions. Oddly, corrosion resistance is one thing motor oil is lacking and why it isn't an "optimum" lube. Better than motor oil for that reason, per Grant Cunningham, is (no, not that) ATF. |
|
Quoted:
Mobile 1 extended performance, it is the only true class four base synthetic oil on the market and it will lubricate longer than any of the over price snake oils they sell for guns. +1 I use this on all of my rifles and hand guns. Just because it's not $15 for a few ounces doesn't mean it's a bad lube 
|
|
Quoted:
I don't use motor oil as a rifle lube, but if I did, I would get a) the highest viscosity available and b) the narrowest viscosity spread (10W-30 versus 15W-50). Explain. Every commercial "gun oil" I've seen is extremely low viscosity by observation. Why would you seek high viscosity motor oil? I use 5w-30 and even that is visibly "thicker" than your typical gun/machine oil. |
| I think I'm going to be switching to either a synthetic oil or ATF. Not only is it much cheaper, but I can't see how any gun oil could be better than something that keeps a motor from seizing up when it's spinning thousands of times per minutes potentially for hours on end. I'll probably test out 5w-20 since I have a quart sitting around and none of my vehicles use that weight oil anymore. |
| Now you guys have me thinking. I use Mobile 1 in all my cars. I started years ago when the Corvettes first required it because of the normal high running temperatures. My Vettes oil temps runs between 195 & 230 degrees and the motor rotates up to 6,500 RPM. You can take apart a Corvette with 150,000 miles and still see the scoring marks when the cylinders were made. No wear or sludge what so ever. I know firearms and auto motors are two completely different breeds but I wonder how the car would run on CLP, Hoppes etc. I am going to fill a needle oiler with some 10-30 M1 and give it a try. |
|
It's all I use (for more than 10 years now).
A good quality synthtic mutli grade 10W 30. Synthetic oils have consistent molecule sizes, the oil is made to operate in high heat, high pressure environments prone to carbon fouling in a variety of temperatures. They have detergents and surfactants with low sling off traits too. |
|
Quoted:
Explain. Every commercial "gun oil" I've seen is extremely low viscosity by observation. Why would you seek high viscosity motor oil? I use 5w-30 and even that is visibly "thicker" than your typical gun/machine oil. Quoted:
Quoted:
I don't use motor oil as a rifle lube, but if I did, I would get a) the highest viscosity available and b) the narrowest viscosity spread (10W-30 versus 15W-50). Explain. Every commercial "gun oil" I've seen is extremely low viscosity by observation. Why would you seek high viscosity motor oil? I use 5w-30 and even that is visibly "thicker" than your typical gun/machine oil. Most gun oils are not designed for autoloaders. Not a lot of heat in a bolt action, lever action. |
|
Quoted:
Oddly, corrosion resistance is one thing motor oil is lacking and why it isn't an "optimum" lube. Better than motor oil for that reason, per Grant Cunningham, is (no, not that) ATF. Quoted:
Quoted:
If the motor oil reacts to water, your AR will be sluggish in rainy conditions. Oddly, corrosion resistance is one thing motor oil is lacking and why it isn't an "optimum" lube. Better than motor oil for that reason, per Grant Cunningham, is (no, not that) ATF. |
|
Why not adapt another thing from the auto world. The total seal rings for pistons were a huge ordeal when they first came out for engines. Now were running them on bolts for weapons.
Inside, the operation of a bolt and bolt carrier is similar to a piston in an engine cylinder. Why not use their oil too? |
|
What's the EP like in motor oils compared to newer gun oils? Most of the time in a car it's using barrier lubrication. In guns, most of the time I'm thinking it's needing a good boundary lube. So without enough of a good enough EP additive, you're carrier is going to be scraping the aluminum in the upper without any, or very little, lube between because it's all pushed out by the pressure.
Just because something is moving fast, doesn't mean that it's under a lot of pressure. Two different things happen. Only when you floor it does boundary lubrication really come into play in a car. The rest of the time, the simple fluid lube keeps the metal parts from rubbing against each other. |
|
Quoted:
What's the EP like in motor oils compared to newer gun oils? Most of the time in a car it's using barrier lubrication. In guns, most of the time I'm thinking it's needing a good boundary lube. So without enough of a good enough EP additive, you're carrier is going to be scraping the aluminum in the upper without any, or very little, lube between because it's all pushed out by the pressure. Just because something is moving fast, doesn't mean that it's under a lot of pressure. Two different things happen. Only when you floor it does boundary lubrication really come into play in a car. The rest of the time, the simple fluid lube keeps the metal parts from rubbing against each other. Sounds like your thinking of the bolt carrier only. Think of the actually bolt with the rings on it. Also forced induction vehicles are under a lot of pressure. I don't believe pressure is the issue. Combustion is pressure, the compression part of a engine is pressure. Atleast its close to what happens when you fire a weapon. Primer strike, ignition, combustion and constant pressure until the round passes the gas ports of the barrel, |
| Mobil 1 keeps my bolt carrier wet longer than any gun oil or gun grease on the market. I wanted to see how long I could shoot before it started to run dry, I stopped after shooting 2 or 3 days a week for 4 months and I never needed to re lube except I put a few drops in the vent holes for the rings. |
|
In a pinch I've used synthetic oil in my guns, not just AR's. Smells funny and works fine.
Once in a great while I forget to take proper gun lube to range sessions. Since I run synthetic oil in my POS car I always have some in the trunk. My main lube for all my guns is synthetic ATF. I've been using it for years with good results. |
|
Quoted:
Sorry, I wasn't clear. I don't mean pressure as in the PSI of the gas in the combustion or expansion chambers, I mean the pressure of the carrier rubbing the upper receiver. Or of the piston rods rubbig the crankshaft. I think I understand what your saying now. I still believe the engine oil would be efficient enough to run. I don't run it a lot. I have maybe twice. It worked then lol |
|
Quoted:
I think I understand what your saying now. I still believe the engine oil would be efficient enough to run. I don't run it a lot. I have maybe twice. It worked then lol Quoted:
Quoted:
Sorry, I wasn't clear. I don't mean pressure as in the PSI of the gas in the combustion or expansion chambers, I mean the pressure of the carrier rubbing the upper receiver. Or of the piston rods rubbig the crankshaft. I think I understand what your saying now. I still believe the engine oil would be efficient enough to run. I don't run it a lot. I have maybe twice. It worked then lol Of course it's an easy fix regardless... just add a small amount of STP oil treatment. That is mostly zinc, the most common and least expensive EP additive used. I have wondered about using the synthetic Slick 50 straight from the bottle without mixing it with oil Especially on our M2s in the army as those seemed to need to be run wetter than anything I've ever seen. |
|
Quoted: Oddly, corrosion resistance is one thing motor oil is lacking and why it isn't an "optimum" lube. Better than motor oil for that reason, per Grant Cunningham, is (no, not that) ATF. Quoted: Quoted: If the motor oil reacts to water, your AR will be sluggish in rainy conditions. Oddly, corrosion resistance is one thing motor oil is lacking and why it isn't an "optimum" lube. Better than motor oil for that reason, per Grant Cunningham, is (no, not that) ATF.  |
|
Quoted:
Mobile 1 extended performance, it is the only true class four base synthetic oil on the market and it will lubricate longer than any of the over price snake oils they sell for guns. Not sure if that's going to make a discernible difference in firearms applications vs. standard M1 oil. |
| I'm wondering where many get the idea that adding ATF somehow increases corrosion resistance. FWIW, I've used Spectro engine assy lube, (designed to cling to parts), Amsoil 15w-40 when I use engine oil. They also make specialty oil for cars that sit in storage alot, better corrosion resistance. |
|
Millions of dollars spent on Motor Oil research and development (r&d)
Mobil1 is the official motor of NASCAR - 850 horsepower motors going up to 9000 RPM. If it holds up for that then it will hold up semi-auto use no problem. I bet the R&D for most gun oils is a complete joke - Not saying they don't work but they cost a lot per ounce. |
|
Quoted:
Millions of dollars spent on Motor Oil research and development (r&d) Mobil1 is the official motor of NASCAR - 850 horsepower motors going up to 9000 RPM. If it holds up for that then it will hold up semi-auto use no problem. I bet the R&D for most gun oils is a complete joke - Not saying they don't work but they cost a lot per ounce. I'm right there with you on that logic. Sure burnt gun powder isn't exactly reproducing the same conditions that motor oil is formulated for, but motor oil in pretty much any engine is abused much more than a BCG being coated in it and fired a bunch of times. |
|
Quoted:
Mobile 1 extended performance, it is the only true class four base synthetic oil on the market and it will lubricate longer than any of the over price snake oils they sell for guns. Mobil 1 0W-40 European Grade is a true Group IV oil. 
Also Royal Purple now offers a spray gun oil. 
Mobil 1 OFFERED a spray lube that was marketed as a gun oil among other applications but it's no longer manufactured. 
|
|
Quoted:
I use 3 parts mobil 1 5W/30, and one part ATF (for the rust)
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
If the motor oil reacts to water, your AR will be sluggish in rainy conditions. Oddly, corrosion resistance is one thing motor oil is lacking and why it isn't an "optimum" lube. Better than motor oil for that reason, per Grant Cunningham, is (no, not that) ATF.
After many years on this site and seeing this discussed over and over I think the general consensus is this solution right here. 75% Mobile 1 to 25% ATF(Mobile One) as mentioned above. |
|
Quoted:
People obsess too much over finding the magic oil. Exactly!!! People get so concerned and upset that they are not using the right type of oil or grease or whatever. These are usually the same people that have no idea how to properly clear a malfunction, do not practice dry firing, and look at you like you are speaking a different language when you mention a "cheek weld". And don't get me started on the FROG LUBE people, it is just green Bore Butter. It's been used in muzzle loader / black powder shooting for decades. Same stuff, different color, 3 times the price, cool story about a Navy Seal, and some think it's the best invention since barrel rifling. Have a great weekend!!!! 
|
|
Quoted:
Is Mobil 1 safe to use as an all in one gun lube, cleaner, etc. Etc.? Or should something else be used to clean the gun, and mobile1 just used as a lube? I clean my guns after every range trip whether I shoot 1 mag or 300 rounds. Non-chlorinated brake cleaner to clean, Mobile 1 for lube. |
[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Using motor oil for lube (Page 1 of 2)
AR Sponsor