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Posted: 7/4/2013 6:57:23 PM EDT
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I have a 16" RRA carbine with chrome moly lining. I am going to be taking it to the range and zero'ing in the eotech one of these days. I play on firing a shot and running my otis patch/solvent through the barell and then brush and then another patch with a dab of CLP on it until it is clean and cool. Then repeating for the first 30-40 rounds or so.
Has anyone done this with good results? I only know that its a good idea to clean and allow the barell to cool, but as far as performance what are you seeing using this method VS not cleaning until your done at the range. |
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You will get many opinions on this subject. Mine is just one of them.
I do a modified version of a full barrel break in. Not as many rounds and not as many cleanings but something in the middle of the full monty Here is the full monty. Break in. |
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There's no such thing as "chrome moly lining".
Some gun and barrel makers are pushing the "chrome moly" thing with the intent to make you think your getting either a chrome LINED barrel, or a barrel made of some special material. Chrome moly is a type of ordinary 4140 steel that's been used to make gun barrels since the 1930's. It's nothing but a quite common steel and unless it specifically states that the barrel is chrome LINED, all you're getting is a standard barrel with a bare steel bore. However, if your barrel IS actually chrome lined, forget trying to do a barrel break in. Chrome lined barrels not only don't need any break in, break in is not possible due to the extremely hard chrome. Due to that very hard lining, break in procedures simply don't work. Chrome LINED barrels are simply shot right out of the box. If you have a bare steel unlined barrel and you want to do a break in procedure, forget the CLP, and I personally think 30 to 40 shots is more then needed. The above posted link is a far better procedure. After that, you should not be getting a lot of copper fouling out, so the barrel should be good to go. To clean the bore, use the brush if you want, but let the solvent do the real work. This means giving the solvent time to work. Running a patch with solvent down the bore and immediately following that with dry patches won't remove the copper correctly. Use a more aggressive copper solvent to cut down on soak times. READ THE LABEL on what the maker recommends for maximum soak times. A really aggressive solvent like Sweet's 7.62 shouldn't be left in the bore longer then 30 minutes, and will usually remove most of the copper fouling with just a couple of patches and a few minutes soak. Using CLP is useless and may actually be bad for break in. Note that the number of shots fired and the intervals differ depending on who you talk to. So, the "trick" is, fire only the number of shots really necessary and get the bore fairly clean of copper by using one of the more aggressive solvents. And, if you have an actual hard chrome lined bore, forget any break in, it doesn't work on chrome lined barrels. If you have any doubt about whether your bore is actually chrome lined, or just ordinary bare steel 4140 chrome moly email Rock River and ask. |
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Quoted:
There's no such thing as "chrome moly lining". Some gun and barrel makers are pushing the "chrome moly" thing with the intent to make you think your getting either a chrome LINED barrel, or a barrel made of some special material. Chrome moly is a type of ordinary 4140 steel that's been used to make gun barrels since the 1930's. It's nothing but a quite common steel and unless it specifically states that the barrel is chrome LINED, all you're getting is a standard barrel with a bare steel bore. However, if your barrel IS actually chrome lined, forget trying to do a barrel break in. Chrome lined barrels not only don't need any break in, break in is not possible due to the extremely hard chrome. Due to that very hard lining, break in procedures simply don't work. Chrome LINED barrels are simply shot right out of the box. If you have a bare steel unlined barrel and you want to do a break in procedure, forget the CLP, and I personally think 30 to 40 shots is more then needed. The above posted link is a far better procedure. After that, you should not be getting a lot of copper fouling out, so the barrel should be good to go. To clean the bore, use the brush if you want, but let the solvent do the real work. This means giving the solvent time to work. Running a patch with solvent down the bore and immediately following that with dry patches won't remove the copper correctly. Use a more aggressive copper solvent to cut down on soak times. READ THE LABEL on what the maker recommends for maximum soak times. A really aggressive solvent like Sweet's 7.62 shouldn't be left in the bore longer then 30 minutes, and will usually remove most of the copper fouling with just a couple of patches and a few minutes soak. Using CLP is useless and may actually be bad for break in. Note that the number of shots fired and the intervals differ depending on who you talk to. So, the "trick" is, fire only the number of shots really necessary and get the bore fairly clean of copper by using one of the more aggressive solvents. And, if you have an actual hard chrome lined bore, forget any break in, it doesn't work on chrome lined barrels. If you have any doubt about whether your bore is actually chrome lined, or just ordinary bare steel 4140 chrome moly email Rock River and ask. Welp, I learned something today. Thank you sir! |
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