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Posted: 11/6/2012 6:09:11 PM EDT
| I've seen several posts that say you should use solid cleaning rods and not the screw together ones. I have yet to see the reason why. Anyone care to shed some light on it? |
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I've seen several posts that say you should use solid cleaning rods and not the screw together ones. I have yet to see the reason why. Anyone care to shed some light on it? Absolutely no reason to not use them. I use them regularly. Unless you're using left hand threaded rods, or left hand rifled barrels, they won't unscrew in use, they'll actually tighten up. All of the manuals instruct you to assemble the rods with a few threads left unscrewed, so that as you pull it through the bore it will allow the sections to screw together, allowing the brush or patch to turn with the rifling. And if you stick with USGI rod sections they will screw together with no overhang, so that shouldn't be an issue either. Good practice dictates not pushing a cleaning rod through the bore.....always pull the rod only. So, if you have a sectional cleaning rod, and it's a good one (USGI), feel confident that it's OK to use, as long as you're using it properly. 
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Good practice dictates not pushing a cleaning rod through the bore.....always pull the rod only. How exactly do you pull a rod through the bore without pushing it in first?? This is in every manual that I've ever read, and it should be self-explanatory, but here goes; Pushing and pulling only refers to actually cleaning the bore, not simply inserting a naked rod with no attachments.... The reason you should never push the rod when a brush or patch tip is attached is because it can cause the rod to flex and bend, coming into contact with the bore. By pulling only when cleaning, the brush or patch tip actually centers the rod in the bore, keeping it off the rifling. Using the USGI rod like I do, you drop the rod with brush attached through the barrel from the chamber, and pull it out through the muzzle. Using a commercial rod with attached handle, you would run the naked rod into the muzzle end without any attachments on it, and attach the brush once it exits the chamber, and then pull the rod out the muzzle. I've seen people push the cleaning brushes and patches through the muzzle end and pull them back out all my life, and they have no idea that's not the proper way to do it. |
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Good practice dictates not pushing a cleaning rod through the bore.....always pull the rod only. How exactly do you pull a rod through the bore without pushing it in first?? You have 3 sections screwed together WITHOUT the t-rod section. You insert the "male" end of the cleaning rod into the chamber and it falls through until the bore brush engages the rifling. At this point, even on a 20" barrel, there is enough rod hanging out the muzzle to grab onto and pull out. You leave the bore brush a couple turns loose so it follows the rifling. The t-rod was only useful for cleaning the chamber. |
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FWIW, there are plenty of barrel makers and well respected shooters that say you may start at the breech and push the brush or patch through as well. This is where the 3 piece rod falls short as the joints are weak points in the pressure of pushing through and can more easily break, and why a one piece rod is superior - it allows you to both push and pull through |
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FWIW, there are plenty of barrel makers and well respected shooters that say you may start at the breech and push the brush or patch through as well. This is where the 3 piece rod falls short as the joints are weak points in the pressure of pushing through and can more easily break, and why a one piece rod is superior - it allows you to both push and pull through Not to be snippy, but that makes absolutely no sense what so ever. I defy anyone on the planet to break a sectional cleaning rod by pushing it through a rifle bore. But by pushing a cleaning rod you allow it to flex and contact the rifling....exactly why the coated rods were invented...to protect the rifling. By pulling the rod it self centers in the bore, eliminating any contact with the rifling. But with designs like the M16-AR series, with unobstructed access to the chamber end of the barrel, there is no reason to push the rod at all. |
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You have 3 sections screwed together WITHOUT the t-rod section. You insert the "male" end of the cleaning rod into the chamber and it falls through until the bore brush engages the rifling. At this point, even on a 20" barrel, there is enough rod hanging out the muzzle to grab onto and pull out. You leave the bore brush a couple turns loose so it follows the rifling. The t-rod was only useful for cleaning the chamber. Exactly how I was taught to do it, and have been doing it for some 35 years now. |
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I've always pushed and pulled with all of my guns using sectional rods. Most are shotguns but we have many rifles as well. My AR is probably the only rifle in my household where you would be able to do pull only cleaning easily. None of our rifles show any signs of wear cosmetically or in their accuracy and some are older than I am. Keep in mind that none of them have any of the protective coatings modern AR barrels have. They're only blued. All of that said, I just bought a carbon fiber, one-piece rod and couldn't be happier with its performance. I'll continue pushing and pulling with the added assurance that the new rod cannot harm the rifling even it rubs the entire way down the barrel. Just my two cents.
-Josh |
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Otis solves the rod problem...but if you must buy a Dewey... How would one knock out a stuck case with an Otis? Use a rod to knock out the stuck case, Otis kit to clean. Right tool for the right job. I have never had a stuck case. If you clean the rifle with the Otis kit, you won't have that problem. And run good ammo... |
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Otis solves the rod problem...but if you must buy a Dewey... How would one knock out a stuck case with an Otis? Use a rod to knock out the stuck case, Otis kit to clean. Right tool for the right job. Hmmm, so which do you carry in the field? Quoted:
I have never had a stuck case. If you clean the rifle with the Otis kit, you won't have that problem. And run good ammo... One of the things I have learned in 40 years of shooting is never say never... |
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Otis solves the rod problem...but if you must buy a Dewey... How would one knock out a stuck case with an Otis? Use a rod to knock out the stuck case, Otis kit to clean. Right tool for the right job. Hmmm, so which do you carry in the field? I carry a bore snake and a mini can of rem oil if I'm out shooting all day. I have yet to use it since I don't normally get too trigger happy but I like the idea of having both items should I need to run it quick down the barrel or spray my bolt up. To be even more compact one could carry a small vile or tube of oil and the bore snake. I've never had a stuck casing before but if I ever were to get one I'd just go to my house/car/friends house or whatever is closest to grab my/their rod to pop it out. My complete cleaning kit is never far from where I'm shooting but I don't want to bring it with me everywhere I go since the one piece rod is huge lol. - Josh |
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