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Posted: 2/20/2011 9:49:29 AM EDT
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I am cleaning my new ( to me) AR and want to make sure that all is clean and neat before I take it to the range. I've noticed quite a build up of carbs inside of bolt carrier:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/560780/carb.jpg What is the right tool and cleaner to get rid of this? TIA! |
| What I like to use is dental tools. The local dentist replaces the metal tools for cleaning teeth every so often and he will give them to me if I ask (yes he runs them through the autoclave first). They are stainless steel so they will be softer than the steel parts on the rifle so no worries about scratching. The thing I like about the dental tools is they come in all shapes, sizes, and orientations. |
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Honestly, I probably wouldn't be too concerned about it. But if I did decide to get rid of it, I'd soak it in Slip 2000 Carbon killer for a few minutes and then wipe it out. |
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Thanks all!
Got rid of it with a screwdriver with some patches and crud cutter. Took me a while, but it's gone now. http://dl.dropbox.com/u/560780/DSC_0605.jpg |
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that carbon should be removed everytime you clean. it can break loose and cause problems. at least it will build up on the back of the bolt and the bcg and reduce clearance for proper operation of said group. that and it shows how much stock you put in your own life when it fails when you need it most.
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Quoted:
that carbon should be removed everytime you clean. it can break loose and cause problems. at least it will build up on the back of the bolt and the bcg and reduce clearance for proper operation of said group. that and it shows how much stock you put in your own life when it fails when you need it most. Not really. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
that carbon should be removed everytime you clean. it can break loose and cause problems. at least it will build up on the back of the bolt and the bcg and reduce clearance for proper operation of said group. that and it shows how much stock you put in your own life when it fails when you need it most. Not really. Agreed. There's lots of guys who never clean that at all. Just keep the Bolt lubed and it'll run almost indefinitely. That said, I clean every spec of that crap out of there with whatever scraping tool I can find. |
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Quoted:
But if I did decide to get rid of it, I'd soak it in Slip 2000 Carbon killer for a few minutes and then wipe it out. That stuff has been as useless as tits on a tornado for me. I've tried using it on my silencer and other carbon caked parts and I can't get a singe spec of carbon loose. I even ran an A2 flash hider in Carbon cutter for 5 minutes in my Ultrasonic cleaner with no results. Took all the oil/lube off it, but none of the carbon. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
But if I did decide to get rid of it, I'd soak it in Slip 2000 Carbon killer for a few minutes and then wipe it out. That stuff has been as useless as tits on a tornado for me. I've tried using it on my silencer and other carbon caked parts and I can't get a singe spec of carbon loose. I even ran an A2 flash hider in Carbon cutter for 5 minutes in my Ultrasonic cleaner with no results. Took all the oil/lube off it, but none of the carbon. Interesting ... I don't think I've ever heard of anyone using the Carbon Killer in an ultrasonic cleaner. I know some people do like to use the 725 degreaser in various "parts washer" setups, but that's about it. Have you tried completely submerging the F/H in the Carbon Killer and then simply letting it soak for the full 10-15 minutes per their instructions? |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
that carbon should be removed everytime you clean. it can break loose and cause problems. at least it will build up on the back of the bolt and the bcg and reduce clearance for proper operation of said group. that and it shows how much stock you put in your own life when it fails when you need it most. Not really. Agreed. There's lots of guys who never clean that at all. Just keep the Bolt lubed and it'll run almost indefinitely. That said, I clean every spec of that crap out of there with whatever scraping tool I can find. I don't worry about it either. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
But if I did decide to get rid of it, I'd soak it in Slip 2000 Carbon killer for a few minutes and then wipe it out. That stuff has been as useless as tits on a tornado for me. I've tried using it on my silencer and other carbon caked parts and I can't get a singe spec of carbon loose. I even ran an A2 flash hider in Carbon cutter for 5 minutes in my Ultrasonic cleaner with no results. Took all the oil/lube off it, but none of the carbon. Try soaking the part in "Kroil" for a few days. It penetrates anything. In a few days, the carbon will be loose enough to wipe it off. |
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Quoted: Honestly, I probably wouldn't be too concerned about it. But if I did decide to get rid of it, I'd soak it in Slip 2000 Carbon killer for a few minutes and then wipe it out. Yup. Had to do same thing yesterday (received used BC from EE), soaked in Simple Green mixed 3:1 (ish - which is real close to carbon killer), quick 'pickin' and rinsed with hot water - good as new. When lubed with Slip2k oil or grease - carbon doesn't stick after it works itself in to surfaces. My .02 |
| I see you already got it out of there but I have always just used an old "stripper clip" wrapped in a patch soaked with Kroil or CLP, or whatever you use for general cleaning. The clip when wrapped with the patch is just the right size to get down in there a few twists and it's good to go. |
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The other day I used some Sea Foam while trying to clean a barrel. It was on the patch after I ran it through the barrel and when I picked up the wet patch and used it to wipe around on the gas tube and the area in the receiver around the gas tube it just wiped the carbon buildup off with a few swipes.
First time and all, not sure how it would do with a big accumulation but not that the can is open I'll try it next time. |
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A little trick I do during and after shooting is to put a few drops of a CLP in the carriers vents through the ejection port of the upper,and work the action a couple times.By the way the Break Free CLP aerosol(only use I have for the aerosol BF CLP is as a cleaner) works well for this application as it tends to foam a bit when sprayed which anoints all the internal surfaces with the CLP....just insert the supplied little straw into the carrier vent and give it a squirt.Helps to start breaking down the carbon on the affected parts and add's a layer of corrosion protection as well.
For a cleaning tool the sharpest/hardest tool I use on any of my weapons to clean is a sharpened chop stick. Otherwise I don't worry too much about the carbon build up on the bolt tail or inside the carrier....I do keep it lubed well(again frequent application) with a CLP which seems to help keep the carbon at a minimum.Otherwise the carbon is self limiting and any excess/loose will be blown off and out the carrier vents when fired. That said I do a complete detail clean once a year needed or not.To remove any stubborn carbon from the bolt tail and the inside the carrier I use Hoppe's No.9 as a dunkit solution.After a bit of a soak the carbon comes right off with a cloth and the sharened chop stick I mention. Ive also taken a can or Break Free CLP aerosol and emptied it into a glass jar and used it as a dunkit quite effectively.The additional solvent in the Break Free CLP aerosol really makes it an effective cleaner,and it leaves a thin layer of lube when removed. I personally do not care for any of the water based solvents....I prefer the good ole smelly toxic petro stuff.But thats me. |
| I use a C.A.T. M-4 Tool, which quickly scrapes the carbon from the bolt carrier, the bolt tail, and the firing pin. It is pretty expensive, though. |
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