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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - NO MORE using oil for lube.... (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 2/4/2011 3:51:11 PM EDT
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Never again. After last firing session a couple months ago, I thouroughly cleaned the rifle, an LMT Defender with about 350 rnds thru it.
I decided to re-lube this time with a synthetic,10/30 motor oil, as I was reading alot on here about using that at the time. I do not like the way the oil migrates to the buffer tube when stored muzzle up. And no, I didnt "pour oil over the damn thing" either. But, the main reason I wont use oil again, is whille doing a routine check today, I noticed a...blob...of some sort in the lug recess area of the chamber. Got out my q-tips and pulled out a blob of a HARD, tar like subtance I dont know what the hell it was. So, I decide to sit down and go over the rifle again, and man, I pulled out several more q-tips full of the stuff. So, I did what I shoulda done before, and used my old reliable Tetra Grease, and chalked it up to a lesson learned. Tetra stays put, keeps fouling at a fluid consistency, and doesnt ooze out of every hole and crack. Any thoughts from you fellas on what it was I pulled out today would be great. |
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Pics? What type of ammo? How many rounds through it total? Did it effect the overall function of the rifle? I don't know how much fouling you could possibly have after +/- 350rds. My LMT 10.5 has right around 2k rounds of mostly wolf and xm193 with 0 cleaning and its dirty, but not THAT dirty... IMHO, for lubing an AR, grease sucks. Synthetic Motor Oil Slip2000 EWL And Machine Gunners lube are about as good as it gets |
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To answer a couple questions..
YES, I use a GI chamber brush every time. Ammo was M193..M855. Ill NEVER shoot steel cased stuff. Yall can have it. No pics, but the blob was tacky and hard. I was wondering WMurderface..why do you think grease sucks for lube? Not trying to argue,just wanting to learn something. The rifle is properly cleaned each time it is fired. Ive never seen anything like this before, from ANY weapon. I only used the oil for the first time after cleaning, it was lubed with Tetra while being fired. NEVER had a problem AT ALL with Tetra, from10/22's to Glocks to Beretta's to shotguns and M1A's. Ill never veer from it again. |
| I use Tetra brand products on all my guns since 2003. The spay clp, grease, and lube work very well with each other and I am not a big fan of mixing products together. When you use the grease make sure you buff it dry after use-the metal will still be protected. I am sorry about the tar-like blobs in your rifle, maybe some type of reaction with the other cleaners? |
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I decided to re-lube this time with a synthetic,10/30 motor oil, as I was reading alot on here about using that at the time. WTF man, motor oil? they make lubricants specifically formulated for firearms this will learn you, if it sounds dumb, it is. and using motor oil as a firearms lubricant is about the dumbest thing I have heard of using. |
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Quoted: Quoted: I decided to re-lube this time with a synthetic,10/30 motor oil, as I was reading alot on here about using that at the time. WTF man, motor oil? they make lubricants specifically formulated for firearms this will learn you, if it sounds dumb, it is. and using motor oil as a firearms lubricant is about the dumbest thing I have heard of using. Better than olive oil. |
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WHOA NOW!
Ghoulardi- read thru a few pages on here at the hundreds of people here who swear by using oil. This site is where I first heard of it myself. In the interest of furthering my knowledge I tried it...and as I said I wont be doing it again. There are literally dozens of threads/posts on here about people using it. And as far as grease goes...some here and elsewhere advocate using a bearing grease. Not me, to me that is too thick. Tetra Grease is nowhere near the consistency of wheel bearing grease, and IMO much better to use. And..it dont smell like ASS. |
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I decided to re-lube this time with a synthetic,10/30 motor oil, as I was reading alot on here about using that at the time. WTF man, motor oil? they make lubricants specifically formulated for firearms this will learn you, if it sounds dumb, it is. and using motor oil as a firearms lubricant is about the dumbest thing I have heard of using. Better than olive oil. Stuck at a cabin in Alaska two years ago, we had a Ruger pistol that was new and would FTF...Sprayed a little PAM on it and all was gtg...No, not my pistol. I stick with Breakfree CLP and LP |
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Unclebob,
Let me see if I have this straight. You found a "blob" of something in the lug recesses of a rifle that's been fired a few times with a total round count of........what.......350 rds. You don't know what the "blob" is, but you seem certain it's related to a change in lubricant. You did not consider other possibilities, such as: blob is not related to change of lube, blob is related to interaction between residual grease and fresh motor oil. Did your rifle fail you in any way? Also, you don't like having oil migrate to the buffer when you store it muzzle up. Did this cause an actual problem? Do you know that the oils in grease migrate, too, over time.....albeit more slowly? Ever consider storing it muzzle down? I am not criticizing your decision to use grease. But your conclusions validate your preference alot better than do your objective findings. Sam |
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Grease turns my guns to clubs when the temp gets below 30 or so. I don't use it anymore.
I have heard that excess residual hoppes mixed with oil makes clumps. I don't have any regular oil here at the shop or I'd be testing that now. I have been using Slip and CLP for the past couple years and have been happy with them. |
| I used to use grease, recently stated using Rem-oil. I spray my rifle before I go to shoot and it works fine, you can tell the action is cycling much quicker with rem-oil than with grease. Better? I don't know but it's definitely easier to clean up afterwards. Yes it does evaporate, but really it takes 2 seconds to spray more inside the action. |
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Use CLP. This is one instance where ARFCOM is not doing you any favors.
I don't get people who don't wear out their guns but always try to find a better lube. CLP ain't new or whizbangy or clean or long-lasting in the safe, but it friggin works. I spray a little through the ejection port onto the bcg, again into the upper with the bolt locked back, and then let 'em fly until I'm tired of putting lead downrange. |
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Never again. After last firing session a couple months ago, I thouroughly cleaned the rifle, an LMT Defender with about 350 rnds thru it. I decided to re-lube this time with a synthetic,10/30 motor oil, as I was reading alot on here about using that at the time. I do not like the way the oil migrates to the buffer tube when stored muzzle up. And no, I didnt "pour oil over the damn thing" either. But, the main reason I wont use oil again, is whille doing a routine check today, I noticed a...blob...of some sort in the lug recess area of the chamber. Got out my q-tips and pulled out a blob of a HARD, tar like subtance I dont know what the hell it was. So, I decide to sit down and go over the rifle again, and man, I pulled out several more q-tips full of the stuff. So, I did what I shoulda done before, and used my old reliable Tetra Grease, and chalked it up to a lesson learned. Tetra stays put, keeps fouling at a fluid consistency, and doesnt ooze out of every hole and crack. Any thoughts from you fellas on what it was I pulled out today would be great. Hard telling what it was. If you don't know what the "blob" was, how do you know that it was formed as a result of using the 10w30 motor oil to lubricate the rifle? I wouldn't be so quick to condemn motor oil as the culprit, especially since so many here (including me) have been using it for so long without a similar issue. 
I've used motor oil to lubricate my rifles (ARs, AKs, bolt guns) and handguns (HKs, Glocks, S&Ws, Colts) for quite a few years (going on 15 years now) and have subjected those firearms so lubricated to extreme amounts of hot, cold, dusty, sandy and very humid environments, extended shooting sessions many times longer than the 350 rounds that you describe above, neglected to clean firearms so lubricated for extended time periods (sometimes for several months) after several thousand rounds (my AK gets beaten to death) and never encountered the "blobs" that you describe above. If you don't like the migration/seepage of motor oils/gun oils there are many light greases that can be made to work in the AR platform. 
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The reason I concluded that it was the motor oil, is that was the only variable in my cleaning/lube routine I ve done for
35+ years. Ive never used motor oil before, and again just tried it on a whim. To answer another question..no, the rifle didnt "fail" me because I never shot it with the oil as a lube. It was AFTER my last shooting session I lubed with the oil, and as I said, took the rifle out of the safe for just a routine going over. Also..it WASNT just one "blob"...it was several. Again, the only thing different this time was the oil as a lube, so what do yall think it was? Half of you say it was"dumb" or "stupid" to use oil in the first place, and half of you say its all you ever use and you swear by it. As I said firstly...as for me..NO MORE OIL on my firearms. It STINKS...its messy...and furthermore I do NOT believe it lubes ANY BETTER than a LIGHT gun grease like Tetra. Tetra DOES NOT migrate...contary to what one poster here said. Where I put it is where itll be 10 years from now. How do I know that? Cause Ive got SKS rifles lubed and stored away for SHTF that Ive had lubed for YEARS, and they are exactly as I first stored them, no "migaration" at all, zero. I think what we all here need to realize, is there isnt ONE proper way/method to lube a weapon...but MANY. And MANY different lubes out there that work on an equal level. It would take a scientific labratory to be able to make a mechanical difference in most lubes. I use my own personal near 40 year experiance with weapons and others with even more, along with further study/advice and common sense to determine what is best for ME. From now on Im sticking to TETRA. BTW...as one poster said...."grease turns my weapons into clubs under 30 degrees"....yes, Im sure bearing or wheel grease does just that. I gaurantee TETRA doent do that. And to address one other.....who the hell wants to pick up an oil soaked rifle, with sticky, messy, stinking motor oil oozing/seeping out of every crack,crevice and pin, attracting extra dirt dust and debris, splattering you in the face for the first mag, when its NOT necessary and avoidable by using a GUN grease like Tetra? To each his own gents, like I said before...use what YOU deem viable and Ill do the same. |
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Quoted: Never could get use to the idea of motor oil in my rifle. That's not what it's made for. Been shooting, cleaning and reloading rifles and hanguns for 40 years. Lubing a gun with motor oil just ain't right. Motor oil - an oil used for lubrication of various internal combustion engines. Internal combustion engine - an engine in which the combustion of a fuel occurs with an oxidizer in a combustion chamber Engine - a machine designed to convert energy into useful mechanical motion Sounds right to me.... |
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Never could get use to the idea of motor oil in my rifle. That's not what it's made for. Been shooting, cleaning and reloading rifles and hanguns for 40 years. Lubing a gun with motor oil just ain't right. Motor oil - an oil used for lubrication of various internal combustion engines. Internal combustion engine - an engine in which the combustion of a fuel occurs with an oxidizer in a combustion chamber Engine - a machine designed to convert energy into useful mechanical motion Sounds right to me.... + 1 
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Never could get use to the idea of motor oil in my rifle. That's not what it's made for. Been shooting, cleaning and reloading rifles and hanguns for 40 years. Lubing a gun with motor oil just ain't right. Motor oil - an oil used for lubrication of various internal combustion engines. Internal combustion engine - an engine in which the combustion of a fuel occurs with an oxidizer in a combustion chamber Engine - a machine designed to convert energy into useful mechanical motion Sounds right to me... + 1 You've been a member for two years and you use that as your first post  
As for the thread,,,motor oil on my AR  I tend to frown on that
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Motor oil is intended, after all, to be runny. It's a liquid pumped around in an enclosed system and then flows down into a collection pan to be pumped out again, it wouldn't work if it didn't flow.
Firearm lubricants, on the other hand, need to stay put where they are applied. Firearms are not a closed system. Firearms lubricants typically need to move when they get loaded up with fouling and get pushed out of the way of moving parts. Different formulations of oils and greases are more appropriate for firearms than motor oil IMO. My experience with motor oil as a firearms lube was most unsatisfactory. |
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The AR is an oil system...not a grease system.
Shooting suppressed will demonstrate this. I was a die hard grease fan until I started running high round counts suppressed and found that the Grease would turn to a semi solid paste while Oil like CLP or Slip 2000 would generally stay liquid and keep the carbon softer. Now...if you are not shooting all that hard and are cleaning regularly, it won't matter. When I used to use TW 25B, I would just spray some CLP on the BCG when it got sluggish from carbon and fouling and drive on...but all in all, the grease made it worse. Currently, I use Slip 2000 and it seems to be the best of both worlds...low smoke, great lube, stays liquid...good stuff. One thing though...you really shouldn't mix lubes. It isn't generally a problem but they can react with one another in bad ways. It probably won't hurt anything but that is probably what caused the issues here. Lastly...motor oil isn't gun oil... |
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I decided to re-lube this time with a synthetic,10/30 motor oil, as I was reading alot on here about using that at the time. WTF man, motor oil? they make lubricants specifically formulated for firearms this will learn you, if it sounds dumb, it is. and using motor oil as a firearms lubricant is about the dumbest thing I have heard of using. You should read more before posting about things you know absolutely nothing about. Many many people use synthetic motor oil for firearms lubrication with very good results. |
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When you fellas say things like "the AR15 is an oil system..not a grease system", Im wondering
What type grease are you talking about? Im NOT, IN ANY WAY, critisizing or arguing. The opposite...Im trying to educate myself here. In MY posts, when I speak of "grease", Im specifically talking about Tetra, but Ill include other well known GUN greases. I cannot fathom Tetra turning into anything in cold, or after hard use, or after running suppressed, other than Tetra. When you gents speak of bad experiances with "grease"...what type are you talking about? I can easily see in my mind wheel bearing or other non-firearm designed grease, causing problems. Tetra is nowhere near as thick, and Ive used it for years on SKS's..M1A...pistols..shotguns..and high volume shooting 10/22's, and its been great. Keeps all the dirty stuff nice and gooey and slick. Please, educate me on what type of grease has been causing all the problems some of you have spoken of. Thanks!! |
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I use Weaponshield CLP for all my guns.
I use Weaponshield Grease for my handguns and my semiauto rifles along with the CLP. They are compatible products. Weaponshield is some good stuff. It lubricates, cleans really well and smells good. I really recommend trying the CLP and the grease. They are made for firearms and its the only stuff I use. I have the 16oz bottle of CLP and the 1lb tub of Weaponshield Grease. http://www.steelshieldtech.com/mainpage/retail-product-weapon-shield.html |
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When you fellas say things like "the AR15 is an oil system..not a grease system", Im wondering What type grease are you talking about? Im NOT, IN ANY WAY, critisizing or arguing. The opposite...Im trying to educate myself here. In MY posts, when I speak of "grease", Im specifically talking about Tetra, but Ill include other well known GUN greases. I cannot fathom Tetra turning into anything in cold, or after hard use, or after running suppressed, other than Tetra. When you gents speak of bad experiances with "grease"...what type are you talking about? I can easily see in my mind wheel bearing or other non-firearm designed grease, causing problems. Tetra is nowhere near as thick, and Ive used it for years on SKS's..M1A...pistols..shotguns..and high volume shooting 10/22's, and its been great. Keeps all the dirty stuff nice and gooey and slick. Please, educate me on what type of grease has been causing all the problems some of you have spoken of. Thanks!! I used Tetra Grease and TW 25B. I am a die hard user of TW 25B...but I have found that in applications where it is exposed to heavy volumes of carbon, it will get thick and hard...same with tetra grease. That is not to say it causes guns to fail...but the guns I used it on ran noticably slower than those using oils when dirty. I saw a scientific explanation of it a year or so back from a mechanical engineer...heck if I can recall where it is, but the gist was that some systems need a liquid lube to keep the debris moving...as in let it flow out of the moving parts and away from contact surfaces. Grease systems need the grease to stay put...but that also keeps the debris from moving out of areas where it builds up. That is why the AR is an "oil" system...it needs a way to move the carbon and whatnot out of the contact surfaces. |
| Personally, I went the completely opposite direction. I used to use CLP and Tetra Grease exclusively. That was until I had a couple short-strokes due to the Tetra slowing down my carrier. I now use Mobil1 Synthetic 10w-30 and I haven't had any issues. It's much cheaper and it's always in stock just about anywhere. I still use the tetra grease for my M1A and for the slide rails of my pistols, but the ARs are getting Mobil1. |
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I will not advertise. I will not advertise. I will not advertise. Now you've got it!...Roadhawk What is the SG of your lube and just how does SG alone season metal? I use bacon grease to season my cast iron, far as I know its (bacon) SG is much less than Iron (approx. 7800 kg/m^3). |
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snip...Roadhawk . What is the SG of your lube and just how does SG alone season metal? I use bacon grease to season my cast iron, far as I know its (bacon) SG is much less than Iron (approx. 7800 kg/m^3). I think they were trying to post an ad for their product, its too detailed into the product and it sounds like something i'd read on a website. Also, that is that persons first post, so just ignore it. |
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Quoted: Quoted: I decided to re-lube this time with a synthetic,10/30 motor oil, as I was reading alot on here about using that at the time. WTF man, motor oil? they make lubricants specifically formulated for firearms this will learn you, if it sounds dumb, it is. and using motor oil as a firearms lubricant is about the dumbest thing I have heard of using. Because motor's don't use that same oil on incredibly fast cycling, extremely close tolerance parts, put under extremely high heat. Yea makes no sense to use on slow cycling, sloppy parts under moderate heat! |
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He's definitely selling it lol. But Froglube is some good stuff. I started using it after a basic armorer's course at Sig Academy. Works very well. I found wine works better to lube a frog. If your going to pitch your product, 1. follow the rules 2. don't just pitch out buzz words to try and sound smart. 3. never bullshit a bullshiter. |
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Quoted: The only thing to use is Gunzilla by Top Duck Was out long before Frog Juice Wasn't Lizard Lube by Master Eagle proven before that? Oh well, I have a couple syringes of GunButter, some Rem Oil, a couple squirts of CLP, Slip8000 and a few others to try. I do have an order of Monkey Snot that is supposed to be the best according to Chicken Wings. |
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The only thing to use is Gunzilla by Top Duck Was out long before Frog Juice Wasn't Lizard Lube by Master Eagle proven before that? Oh well, I have a couple syringes of GunButter, some Rem Oil, a couple squirts of CLP, Slip8000 and a few others to try. I do have an order of Monkey Snot that is supposed to be the best according to Chicken Wings. No kidding, people sent it to loved ones in Iraq when the standard CLP failed. The Army started testing it after they got wind of it. |
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Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: The only thing to use is Gunzilla by Top Duck Was out long before Frog Juice Wasn't Lizard Lube by Master Eagle proven before that? Oh well, I have a couple syringes of GunButter, some Rem Oil, a couple squirts of CLP, Slip8000 and a few others to try. I do have an order of Monkey Snot that is supposed to be the best according to Chicken Wings. No kidding, people sent it to loved ones in Iraq when the standard CLP failed. The Army started testing it after they got wind of it. |
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I'm not an expert in any way. However I do have a friend who is. Marine machine gun expert/instructor at Quantico. I asked him about motor oil as a gun lube and he laughed. Told me that when they are out shooting a lot they will dump a cup of motor oil over/in the machine gun and keep going without worries. Was enough for me to feel comfortable with Mobile 1 which I haven't had a problem with myself. To each his own and what works for me may not be for you.
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I use Weaponshield CLP for all my guns. I use Weaponshield Grease for my handguns and my semiauto rifles along with the CLP. They are compatible products. Weaponshield is some good stuff. It lubricates, cleans really well and smells good. I really recommend trying the CLP and the grease. They are made for firearms and its the only stuff I use. I have the 16oz bottle of CLP and the 1lb tub of Weaponshield Grease. http://www.steelshieldtech.com/mainpage/retail-product-weapon-shield.html +1 Try WeaponShield clp and grease. It works great. |
[ARCHIVED THREAD] - NO MORE using oil for lube.... (Page 1 of 2)
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