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Posted: 7/18/2010 1:58:54 PM EDT
| next time i clean the BCG im thinking about soaking it overnight, mineral spirits is my first thought. should i add some rem oil to the spirits ?? Has anyone had luck with using mineral spirits |
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Quib mixes in CLP: http://www.weaponevolution.com/forum/showthread.php?1607-QUIB-S-ODORLESS-MINERAL-SPIRITS-CLP-BOLT-CLEANING-PROCEDURE That was definitely helpful. My only ? now is from the pics it looks like you dont actually submerge the carrier and bolt in the mixture, more or less it sits in the mixture and you brush it on. Would it hurt the carrier in any way to be fully submerged ?? |
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Quib mixes in CLP: http://www.weaponevolution.com/forum/showthread.php?1607-QUIB-S-ODORLESS-MINERAL-SPIRITS-CLP-BOLT-CLEANING-PROCEDURE That was definitely helpful. My only ? now is from the pics it looks like you dont actually submerge the carrier and bolt in the mixture, more or less it sits in the mixture and you brush it on. Would it hurt the carrier in any way to be fully submerged ?? I believe he fully submerges the parts after he gives them a brushdown, shouldn't hurt a thing, even if left in overnight. |
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Quoted: Remember how he never wanted to be nailed down regarding just how 'much' CLP to mix with the OMS?Quib mixes in CLP: http://www.weaponevolution.com/forum/showthread.php?1607-QUIB-S-ODORLESS-MINERAL-SPIRITS-CLP-BOLT-CLEANING-PROCEDURE  |
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I might be all wrong, but I think the CLP does nothing or next to nothing as far as cleaning goes. Quib's formulation is a one step formula- nothing magical about it. The clp in the mix is just to keep a coating of oil on the surface of the BCG.
The mineral spirits is what does the carbon and crud removal. If the CLP wasn't in the mix, all oil would be removed from the BCG and it would be prone to rust. |
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Remember how he never wanted to be nailed down regarding just how 'much' CLP to mix with the OMS?
Quib mixes in CLP: http://www.weaponevolution.com/forum/showthread.php?1607-QUIB-S-ODORLESS-MINERAL-SPIRITS-CLP-BOLT-CLEANING-PROCEDURE
Yup. And he always said that the CLP isn't really even needed for the cleaning part but rather to provide corrosion prevention, so some may like to use more than others. |
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WD-40 will also turn sticky after a period of time which is exactly why its not reccomended to use to clean your weapons. Nick really, you would think that after the hundreds of times i have cleaned my M4 with it I would have noticed by now. hold on let me walk over to the rack and check. ...wow the rifle in my hand right now that was cleaned with wd40 a month ago says you dont know what you are talking about. Let me check another one. ...the unsassigned rifle i jsst took apart was cleaned with wd40 last quarter isnt sticky yet either. any idea on when this supposed stickyness is supposed to happen. I could check a few M2s that were scrubbed down with wd40 before they were put away back in april but those are in another armory and I dont feel like driving to discover something i already know. |
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WD-40 will also turn sticky after a period of time which is exactly why its not reccomended to use to clean your weapons. Nick really, you would think that after the hundreds of times i have cleaned my M4 with it I would have noticed by now. hold on let me walk over to the rack and check. ...wow the rifle in my hand right now that was cleaned with wd40 a month ago says you dont know what you are talking about. Let me check another one. ...the unsassigned rifle i jsst took apart was cleaned with wd40 last quarter isnt sticky yet either. any idea on when this supposed stickyness is supposed to happen. I could check a few M2s that were scrubbed down with wd40 before they were put away back in april but those are in another armory and I dont feel like driving to discover something i already know. Hey man , my mistake. I'm just passing on what I was taught at the Arma-Lite AR-15 armorer's course.... And the Sig Sauer Armorer's course..... And the Marine Corps infantry....... So forgive me for actually trusting those complete retards..... I should a known better. I guess I sorta figured they either made the weapons we were learning about or had carried them into battle for about 40 fucking years so they actually knew what they were talking about..... It's really not necessary to be prick right off the get go....I usually like to wait for someone to start things off before I act like a complete tool.....but feel free to jump right on in and kick it all off. Asshole, party of one, your table is ready. Back on topic......I honestly never tried WD-40 since I was told not to. If you've never had a failure caused by WD-40 and want to continue using it....fine. I wont since all of those entities expressly told me not to. Oddly enough, I wasnt able to find WD-40 listed anywhere as a reccomended cleaner in any manuals that I have either. If one of your manuals states differently, I'd love to know about it. Nick |
| WD-40 is specifically a water displacer (thus the name). It has a variety of properties that include casual lubrication. I would not trust it as the main cleaner or lubricant for any gun, and instead would use a product made specifically for cleaning and/or lubricating firearms. As opposed to one that was originally intended to displace water from electrical connectors and to prevent corrosion on Atlas missiles' skins. |
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WD-40 is specifically a water displacer (thus the name). It has a variety of properties that include casual lubrication. I would not trust it as the main cleaner or lubricant for any gun, and instead would use a product made specifically for cleaning and/or lubricating firearms. As opposed to one that was originally intended to displace water from electrical connectors and to prevent corrosion on Atlas missiles' skins. I use WD-40 for one thing...hosing down lawn equipment after each use. It has never, nor will it ever, touch any of my firearms. |
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Quoted: A pretty harsh view point.Quoted: WD-40 is specifically a water displacer (thus the name). It has a variety of properties that include casual lubrication. I would not trust it as the main cleaner or lubricant for any gun, and instead would use a product made specifically for cleaning and/or lubricating firearms. As opposed to one that was originally intended to displace water from electrical connectors and to prevent corrosion on Atlas missiles' skins. I use WD-40 for one thing...hosing down lawn equipment after each use. It has never, nor will it ever, touch any of my firearms. Go shooting in the rain, or get your weapon flooded with muddy water, and you can't disassemble/service it properly for some time - WD-40 is great to displace the water (and possible silt if its a dirty and muddy environment) before you can clean it. It's a PITA to use chemical and/or other petroleum based solvents/cleaners/lubes on a water-wet weapon. Rinse off the mud with hot water, wipe it down with clean/dry rags/towel, spray the inner spring and detent passages, and gas block with WD-40 to displace the moisture before it leaves a haze of corrosion, salt, silt in there to plug stuff up. I also use it to displace the water and moisture in, under, and around the gas block and sling assemblies that I can't get to with a rag. I can't fit a rag into or between many areas. WD-40 isn't a lube and it's not for protection during use or storage. It's used to flush water and silt, or dust and grime out of your my weapon before you I smear it all over while I clean it. Just my humble viewpoint, carry on. ETA: I altered the text in green. |
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I often use WD40 for hunting guns exposed to harsh weather. My waterfowl guns always get sprayed down because I expect them to get wet. While WD40 will work for gun cleaning, there are much better options, in my opinion.
WD40 was designed to be a water displacer and it works well for that. It's a mediocre solvent and lubricant. It contains parrafin oil which will tend to gum up fine mechanisms in time. I've seen lots of locks that would barely move after being repeatedly sprayed with WD. It will also gum up things like the threads on AR15/M16 sights. I know there are lots of shooters who swear by it for cleaning and it will work better than nothing, but there are better products available. |
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A pretty harsh view point.
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WD-40 is specifically a water displacer (thus the name). It has a variety of properties that include casual lubrication. I would not trust it as the main cleaner or lubricant for any gun, and instead would use a product made specifically for cleaning and/or lubricating firearms. As opposed to one that was originally intended to displace water from electrical connectors and to prevent corrosion on Atlas missiles' skins. I use WD-40 for one thing...hosing down lawn equipment after each use. It has never, nor will it ever, touch any of my firearms. Go shooting in the rain, or get your weapon flooded with muddy water, and you can't disassemble/service it properly for some time - WD-40 is great to displace the water (and possible silt if its a dirty and muddy environment) before you can clean it. It's a PITA to use chemical and/or other petroleum based solvents/cleaners/lubes on a water-wet weapon. Rinse off the mud with hot water, wipe it down with clean/dry rags/towel, spray the inner spring and detent passages, and gas block with WD-40 to displace the moisture before it leaves a haze of corrosion, salt, silt in there to plug stuff up. I also use it to displace the water and moisture in, under, and around the gas block and sling assemblies that I can't get to with a rag. I can't fit a rag into or between many areas. WD-40 isn't a lube and it's not for protection during use or storage. It's used to flush water and silt, or dust and grime out of your my weapon before you I smear it all over while I clean it. Just my humble viewpoint, carry on.
ETA: I altered the text in green. Not harsh at all, just my POV. If I'm operating under rainy conditions and don't have time for a detailed cleaning, I will use BreakFree CLP in aerosol form to hose things out and wipe them down. I'm much more comfortable shooting the next day, or leaving it alone for a few days after hosing things out with BF than I ever would be with WD-40. 
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for the BCG, I've been having good results w/ a bamboo chopstick. bamboo because it's non-metallic and takes a lot to break.
I spray the bolt-end (and the whole group) w/ NC brake cleaner, shove a 9mm patch in there, and use the chopstick to scrub. the patch comes out black and seems to do a decent job w/ a fraction of the time and smell. then apply lube of choice now what to do w/ all of the Carbon Killer...... |
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for the BCG, I've been having good results w/ a bamboo chopstick. bamboo because it's non-metallic and takes a lot to break. I spray the bolt-end (and the whole group) w/ NC brake cleaner, shove a 9mm patch in there, and use the chopstick to scrub. the patch comes out black and seems to do a decent job w/ a fraction of the time and smell. then apply lube of choice now what to do w/ all of the Carbon Killer...... Hum? Bamboo chopsticks are a good idea. Used Quib's formula with odorless spirits for cleaning and that works pretty darn well. CLP for lubrication and protection have been my primary choice for years. Recenlly went to MPRO-7 cleaner and gun oil. No contest in cleaning and lubrication, MPRO-7 is way better in both catagories (but expensive). |
| WD-40 is the best rust remover out there. Leaving it on continues the protection; applying and wiping off works to take off surface rust, but not much is left to prevent rust reforming in the future. I would use it topically on a firearm to remove rust, then wipe it off. I don't use Rem Oil in my car nor Mobil 1 on my guns. There are products that are specific to what you need in a firearm––or car. Why screw around with some other combination? Hoppes and Outers have been around a long time––so has Remington, and I've used them for 40 years for what they're intended for. If you get a squeaking hinge, WD-40 can't be beat. It takes just about any stain out, as well. I love the stuff, but it's not a cleaner or lube for firearms. Not saying it can't be used, but there are far better options, imo. |
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Since we are on the subject of cleaning the BCG, does anyone have any experience with the C.A.T. M4 or the Magnamatic carbon scraping tools? Do they work or are they a waste of time? They work, but there's really no good reason to do all that. I never remove 100% of the carbon on the bolt tail and my rifles run fine. It deposits so quickly with use that I think it's a waste of time to scrape it all off every time I clean. If you want to scrape the bolt, a .45 case does a decent job. I use a tall jar that the BCG fits into that's filled with a mixture of Hoppes and mineral spirits. I drop the whole BCG in it and soak it while I clean the rest of the rifle or sometimes it soaks overnight (the longer the better). When I pull it out of the solution, I break it down and wipe off the parts. Usually the carbon inside the carrier and on the bolt tail wipes off 90%. I will sometimes use an old kitchen scrubber sponge on the bolt. I call it good enough. I relube the parts, reassemble the bolt group and I'm done. |
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I tried the clp and mineral spirits (About 4 good squirts of CLP into a pan of mineral spirits) on one of my BCGs after shooting one day after reading this thread.. wow.. talk about quick cleaning. I let it soak while I cleaned the rest of the gun.. came back, wiped off the gunk, scraped off a tiny bit of carbon off the bolt and Bolt carrier, was a piece of cake. Really made quick work of the bolt and bolt carrier. |
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Quoted: I run my bolts pretty wet. I do that because I shoot corrosive Russian 5.45 stuff in my ARs.I tried the clp and mineral spirits (About 4 good squirts of CLP into a pan of mineral spirits) on one of my BCGs after shooting one day after reading this thread.. wow.. talk about quick cleaning. I let it soak while I cleaned the rest of the gun.. came back, wiped off the gunk, scraped off a tiny bit of carbon off the bolt and Bolt carrier, was a piece of cake. Really made quick work of the bolt and bolt carrier. I found that most of the carbon doesn't even bake on if I wipe the bolt tail off and relube it after 10-15 mags. The lube is generally still wet at that point even if I haven't squirted more in, and the carbon is held in suspension. It'll probably go longer, but that's about when I break it open and pop the bolt out. I don't tend to be in firefights with paper targets at the range, so I've never felt the need to see how long it'd go. It might be interesting to know. |
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