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Posted: 5/28/2009 11:49:33 AM EDT
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Hey all,
What's the proper way to remove trigger & hammer pin. I heard they can simply be tapped out, but then I've heard that this can potentially damage the hammer spring. Any advice/info would be much appreciated. Thanks, Jimmy |
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A set of 'slave' pins make this so easy, it' simple. You can make your own out of a standard pin (cut at 1st groove) or a piece of # 23, 24 drill stock.
OAL should be less than .625", if memory serves. Slave pins will hold the trigger, disco. together for removal and installation. Cheap tool. |
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Quoted:
A set of 'slave' pins make this so easy, it' simple. You can make your own out of a standard pin (cut at 1st groove) or a piece of # 23, 24 drill stock. OAL should be less than .625", if memory serves. Slave pins will hold the trigger, disco. together for removal and installation. Cheap tool. I made one a few years ago, but rarely use it. I've found that a 1/8th pin punch works better. 
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If it was cut at the first groove it would be a slave pin. A slave pin will hold the trigger and disco. together for disassembly or assembly. And it will allow you to remove them as a unit. Length should be less than the triggers width. An 1/8" punch won't do this.
Some after market Mfgs. include slave pins with their FCG's. Geissele's will only go in one way, it's tapered. The next time I make one, I'm going to include the taper you did. |
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Quoted:
If it was cut at the first groove it would be a slave pin. A slave pin will hold the trigger and disco. together for disassembly or assembly. And it will allow you to remove them as a unit. Length should be less than the triggers width. An 1/8" punch won't do this. I have always understood the use of the slave pin, and undrstand what you're saying above. The use of a slave pin....... 
I varied slightly from the -23 drawing outlining where the cut should be as well as added the taper, my personal variations to the idea, as I consider this more of an alignment pin than a slave pin. The -23 slave pin drawing....... 
In using it, I would assemble the disconnector into the trigger, then slide the pin through the whole assembly. The taper allowed for quick alignment. I would then follow behind this pin with the actual FCG pin. Pushing out the alignment pin from one side, as the FCG pin was inserted from the other. Now, I simply line up the disconnector in the trigger, insert a 1/8th pin punch to hold things in position, then insert the FCG pin from the opposite side as I slowly withdraw the punch. 
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