Warning

 

Close
Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Cancel Confirm
AR15.COM
AR Sponsor
4/26/2008 4:02:07 AM EDT
CLP or some other type of oil lubricant versus grease. I grew up being taught to clean your firearm with cleaning solvents then you oil your "rifle" son. I consistently use CLP and have the usual oil dripping from the pins and such after a day spent at the range.

I have never even really thought about grease until I saw James Yeager bring up the topic with lubricating a Glock. Then the FAL grip plug with grease dawned on me, an old cleaning kit for a colt AR-15 had a grease bottle in it, you get the picture.

There is new oils, new this and that coming out every day, but I really can't find any good info on grease. Obviously I would assume dust and particles with grease will be an issue.

Just wondered if I could utlize some grease or better to stay with the CLP...?
4/26/2008 4:20:17 AM EDT
[#1]
 CLP.. Nuff said.
4/26/2008 7:42:47 AM EDT
[#2]
My opinion:  Grease is too thick for an AR.

I’ve tried Tetra grease in the past. With the tight tolerances and gas impingement system, the grease quickly turns to goo.  The thickest I’ll go is BF LP.

And if you literally have lube dripping from the pin holes of your lower receiver............. you’ve OVER LUBED.
4/26/2008 6:38:27 PM EDT
[#3]
My experience has also been that grease turns to a high friction goo in an AR.  I have had several ARs that would have reliability issues after a few hundred rds with grease. After I went to CLP these same rifles do fine much longer. YMMV
4/26/2008 7:22:58 PM EDT
[#4]
Thanks
4/27/2008 3:48:41 PM EDT
[#5]
+1 with all the above.
With a weapon like the AR15 and many others,all thats needed is a light oil lubricant like a good CLP.
A good CLP has all the features needed to make these weapons work and keep working.The cleaning effect offered by the CLP also keeps the fouling at acceptable levels even if a detailed cleaning is not done.Basically the fouling is displaced and held in suspension within the base oil.This alone eases maintenance as the fouling can be wiped away.
I can also say without a doubt that the Break Free CLP goes straight to the base metal and displaces all fouling and old lube residue.Darn hard to degrease as well.Anyone who has tried to degrease a weapon that has had Break Free CLP used on it can verify that.The stuff seems to weep/grow from the metal.What looks dry with Break Free CLP is actually not.Found that out when trying to repaint my G3.
Ive tried various greases on the AR and a G3 and like Quib said it more times than not turns into a goo in rather short order.Infact I had a G3 get so sticky I had FTF using a gease.
Now the only grease type lube I have found that works 100% on the AR,G3 etc. is the Mil-comm TW25B.But it is more like a heavy viscosity oil than a grease and I applied it as an EP spray,which leaves a thin layer of lube.
Like the others have said all you need to use is CLP.Repeated and continual use of the CLP will keep your weapon in perfect working order IMHO.
4/27/2008 10:16:27 PM EDT
[#6]
High temperature lithium grease that you find at your auto parts store is what I use. It stays where I put it and all the guns I use it in work just fine.

Speaking of James Yeager, in the high round count classes he teaches they run 3,000 rounds in 5 days (it used to be 4,000). Guns lubed with grease ran fine (lube wise). I know a lot of people cringe at applying grease to their guns but I've had a good experience with it.

There are some people that say they don't care what a seasoned instructor says, regardless of what experience they have. Well, in the case of Yeager of seeing more than a million rounds fired each year I would think he knows what does and doesn't work.
4/28/2008 6:54:10 AM EDT
[#7]
Weapon Shield.  No need for grease.
AR Sponsor