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6/22/2007 6:50:46 PM EDT
Sorry if this has already been explained, but I couldn't find it anywhere.
I can't seem to remove the flash hider on my 16" Stag Arms upper.
I am using this tool as the removal wrench...

http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/ARR070-3340-2701.html
However, the largest square slot in the wrench is not big enough to fit completely over the flat spot in the flash hider.
I've tried turning it some with the wrench, but I'm afraid I will round off the nut since the wrench is not fitting properly.  
Should I try using penetrating oil?
Or am I just doing something wrong?

On a side note I read somewhere (I think shotgun news) about a year ago that the thread pattern on the Stag Arms flash hider was not the standard mil. spec. thread pattern.  Is this true?
6/22/2007 7:08:56 PM EDT
[#1]
Try using an adjustable wrench if you don’t have the proper open-end wrench. Are you securing the barrel in a padded bench vice?

I have the DPMS armorers wrench as well. It’s the painted version, and the wrench fits pretty tight due to the thickness of the paint, but it does a good job at removing the FH.

6/22/2007 7:16:22 PM EDT
[#2]
I filed the paint off the wrench and it is still too tight.
I guess I'll just use a normal wrench.
But it's just kind of frustrating that I bought a tool to do a job it was designed for and it won't work.
6/22/2007 7:22:29 PM EDT
[#3]
The key that you've missed is that the factory used loctite on the threads during the original installation.
You need to apply heat to deactivate the loctite, then a properly sized wrench can unscrew the flash hider.
(Hair dryer on hottest, or shop-type heat gun, not a torch)

Dollars to donuts, the threading is the standard 1/2-28
6/22/2007 7:27:42 PM EDT
[#4]

Quoted:
You need to apply heat to deactivate the loctite..........


Good point. I was not aware of Loctite being used by STAG.

My DPMS wrench is a tight fit, but as I stated, it does work.
6/24/2007 5:28:06 PM EDT
[#5]
Wouldn't firing the gun deactivate the loctite.  I have a hard time believing that Stag would use loctite on the muzzle threads.  Why bother when a meager 15 ft-lbs of torque is more than sufficient to hold the muzzle device on indefinitely.

A FH on any barrel that has some rounds put through it are going to be a bitch to remove, period.  The carbon that builds up on the inside of the FH basically welds the FH to the end of the barrel.  The key is simply the judicial use of a breaker bar.  Apply force to the breaker bar in short dynamic bursts to break the FH free of the barrel.  Make sure to use barrel vice blocks or have the FSB clamped in the vice, if the FSB is attached to the barrel with taper pins.
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