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3/25/2007 6:35:34 PM EDT
First off,  im new to the AR world.  A guy at my local range, who seemed to know what he was talking about, told me to use automotive carborater or brake cleaner to clean my internals.  He said it was the same chemical makeup as the some of the "fast evaporating" gun cleaners off the shelf.  He said it would work down into the parts really well, and all I would need to do is apply some CLP once it was dry.

Does this seem accurate?  Whats best for those hard to reach areas?
3/25/2007 6:38:01 PM EDT
[#1]
Brake cleaner, NOT carb cleaner. Brake cleaner works well to flush the loose crud out of areas you can't reach with a brush or patch and dries without leaving a film, unlike carb cleaner.
3/25/2007 6:40:45 PM EDT
[#2]
key phrase, "without leaving a film", right?

so I shouldnt have any problems cleaning my bolt assembly or my trigger area with it?
3/25/2007 6:44:32 PM EDT
[#3]
Listen to stasher, the chemical make-up of carb cleaner has changed over the years since the EPA has got involved.Brake cleaner, however, is still pretty tame. It will not cut heavy crud, though.
3/25/2007 6:46:36 PM EDT
[#4]
will it normally have a heavy crud build up, even if i clean after every use?
3/25/2007 7:12:30 PM EDT
[#5]
someone has some cartoon pics refering not to use carb cleaner.
3/25/2007 7:21:10 PM EDT
[#6]
The thing with using brake cleaner is it strips all oil from the pores of the metal leaving it vulnerable to corrosion if not re-lubed. I limit it’s use to flushing out the chamber and bore before cleaning, and flushing out the gas tube after cleaning. I also use it to de-grease parts before applying finishes like cold blue or alumablack.
3/27/2007 2:04:46 PM EDT
[#7]
My use of brake cleaner is to flush off the cleaners used for cleaning. I use hoppe's #9 cleaner for the actual cleaning of the gun then flush with break cleaner. Brake cleaner strips every thing down to bare metal allowing good lubricant penetration. There's no need to use break cleaner on parts cleaned with CLP.
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