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Posted: 10/26/2006 6:46:52 PM EDT
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FYI - The various brands of non-chlorinated brake cleaners have different solvents, best to read the lable and stay with one that works for you. I stay away from any that use Acetone (hard on platic and burns too easy) or anything that is typically found in paint stripper (i.e. meth chloride etc.). |
I should have clarified, the Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber is around $8 per can. That's why I wanted to know if brake cleaner was the same stuff because it's a lot cheaper. |
Honestly, I don't know if its the same chemical composition, but for sure works like a champ and do not harm your rifle. I used to flush my firearms with the $10 stuff, but not any more. I can have the same cleaning effect with a $2 brake cleaner bottle and spent the rest in ammo. Just be sure to get the NON-CHLORINATED one. |
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The older Gun Scrubber was the same as some of the CHLORINATED brake cleaners - the two postive features were cleaned well and did not burn. The new Gun Scrubber for various good reasons (two of which is that chlorinated solvents are very hard on plastics and you ) is no longer a chlorinated solvent. If you check the MSDS sheets of the Gun Scrubber and various brake cleaners - you can see which are similar or the same (note lot of differences between different brake cleaners part numbers, even of the same supplier). |
I was searching for non-chlorinated break cleaner, but didn't know about certain ingredients to avoid.. (acetone/ meth chloride etc.).. AutoZone at my city has about 5 different kinds of break cleaner, from $1.99- $3.99 each, but only one that says its "non-chlorinated" - for $3.19- but it has both of the stuff mentioned above. I rather find one as cheap/safe as I can, so anyone know of any breakcleaner that is what we need at the $2 price range? |
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I have been using "Break Free" brand of degreaser and it works fantastic. I got it at Wal-mart @ $4.85 a can. Each can contains 1 lbs. of solvent. It's more expensive than automotive break cleaners, but I'd rather spend a tad more for a product that is designed for cleaning guns. Just my preference. Nothing wrong with automotive cleaners, but I would probably blanket the plastic areas with a gun cleaning cloth that has been folded over several times to keep any unwanted splatter from hitting the plastic. These cleaners usually spray out with a good amount of jet force. I try to bump the nozzle to keep from to much splatter, and keep your eyes clear, because this stuff burns like fire, if it gets in the eyeball! |
Do anyone happens to know if this .99 can is "non-chlorinated" (it doesn't say that on the can.. what should one look for??) .. I should of pay more attention in chemistry during school!! 
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Just went to the shop and checked on the two brands I have been using with good luck - both are closer to $2 or a little less when on sale and/or with discounts. NAPA (they give a discount for AAA and case discounts) MAC's 4800 Non Chlorinated Brake Cleaner (there is another Non-Chlorinated Brake Cleaner from NAPA with worst sovlents in it - Acetone?). MAC's 4800 contains Toluene, Methanol (which is wood alcohol), Petroleum Distillates Carbon Dioxide (the gas to push out the other stuff). AutoZone Brake Cleaner AZP-10 (sku 0 52948 02178 4) with black rear of can and orange / stripped front, with a disk brake. Contains Petroleum Distillates and Toluene and while no alcohol is listed neither is the propelent such as carbon dioxide. As always use safetly, wear gloves, test on any painted or plastic surfaces first and since the solvents are toxic and the vapors burn, use in a well vented area. For a little more money, the new plastic safe gun scrubber is safer (i.e. less toxic), however, contains alcohol and may retain moiture if not dried well (or may remove moisture from a wet gun - both sides of the same coin ;-). The MSDS for the plastic safe gun scrubber indicates it is hexane and Isopropyl Alcohol |
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I always get the full boat chlorinated cleaner. Works much better, IMHO, than the non-chlor. Just be careful around some plastics, but I have found that most gun plastic is immune. I have used it on Glocks and XD's, and have got some over-spray on the front hand guards of my AR with no problems. Cheap plastic grips and wood finishes would be another story. It's nastier that non-chlor, but I don't use it all that often, either. But when I do, I prefer the more effective product. Make sure to use any of this stuff outdoors. |
That is what I originally though but I also have this problem with a NIW bushmaster barrel after using aresol on it. |
That brown stuff is grease, oil, or rust. If you de-grease something with an aerosol, whatever you are de-greasing will get cold. Things that are cooler than ambient temp. usually form condensation, condensation on degreased parkerizing corrodes very quickly. To fix this issue use a air compressor to blow all moisture out of tight fits around the front sight post and to completley dry the metal. Or you can use a heat gun to quickly evaprorate the brake cleaner and condensation. After all moisture is gone just oil the metal back up. |
It is not grease or oil. The exact procedure you describe with an air compressor is what I use and it still turns brown. |
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Something is not right with the equation. Brake cleaner does not turn parkerizing brown. If it is not oil, then is it rusty condensation? Do you have an air dryer for your compressor? You could be blowing rusty water from inside you compressor tank. Does the brown stuff wipe off? Does it turn brown all over the barrel, flash hider, and gas block? What brand of brake cleaner was it? I parkerize things almost weekly before I teflon coat them. I degrease with brake cleaner and have never seen this happen. However, I have seen lots of rust from under gas blocks.... |
Yes I know the compressor tank holds water. The parkerizing turns brown. It is not raised rust. The brand of cleaner I used is Zero Tri. I know this might not happen with all cleaners but most are so close in formula, I don't want to risk it. |
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