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Posted: 2/24/2006 8:52:45 PM EDT
Hey guys, I'm about to install my Magpul trigger guard and PRI Big Latch here within the next week, and I was wondering how is best to install all of those tiny roll pins without dinging up anything else? I remember seeing these little prong-like things a while back that helped install roll pins, but I can't remember where to find them. Any ideas or techniques? Thanks
Link Posted: 2/24/2006 9:00:37 PM EDT
I vaguely remember a tool that looked cool but can't recall.

A pair of fine needle nose pliers (non serrated) and a good roll pin punch will solve lots of these issues.

Rick

Link Posted: 2/24/2006 9:07:48 PM EDT
Where can I get inexpensive roll pin punches?
Link Posted: 2/24/2006 9:17:51 PM EDT

Originally Posted By swenis:
Where can I get inexpensive roll pin punches?



Inexpensive? That's subjective, but Brownells sells roll pin punches.

I've installed both a Magpul trigger guard and a PRI Big Latch, and the job was greatly simplified by not removing the roll pins the whole way. Drive them 90% out, enough to swap the part, and them back in the rest of the way. Remember to support the tang on the lower when working with the trigger guard pin.

Link Posted: 2/24/2006 10:52:29 PM EDT

Remember to support the tang on the lower when working with the trigger guard pin.


Cannot be over stated. I just drilled a hole in a piece of wood.

I put a Magpul trigger gaurd on with standard punches with no problems. Just go easy. Put a little lube on the pins, too.
Link Posted: 2/25/2006 5:26:26 AM EDT
Link Posted: 2/25/2006 6:03:07 AM EDT
adcofirearms offers a roll pin starter/holder punch in their tools section.
Link Posted: 2/25/2006 7:17:23 AM EDT
brass hammer duct tape and smooth jaw vise grips works wonders. for small roll pins.
Link Posted: 2/25/2006 8:58:49 PM EDT
Like another person has stated ......putting the small roll pin back into the latch is the hardest part.

I couldn't find a punch here locally that was small enough.......so I had to take a small nail punch and grind off some metal to get a puch that would work. Also use the smallest nail punch to set the pin slightly below the surface. Nail punches have a "cup" built into the end that doesn't allow the pin to slip that easily.

Always use a hard plastic head hammer [ or brass ] I like the plastic head as it hardly ever will mare metal or finishes.

JF.
Link Posted: 2/26/2006 9:23:17 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/26/2006 10:03:41 AM EDT by swenis]
Thanks for the replies, everybody. I went out to Sears and bought a small dual plastic head / rubber head hammer, which will work very well. What do you guys mean by supporting the tang? I do not have a vice to work with so what would be the best way to do the procedure?

I also just ordered those Lyman pin punches from the Midway link you provided. Good deal.
Link Posted: 2/27/2006 12:09:26 AM EDT
You don't have to spend a lot of money on tools, but you will hopefully use good tools many times over the years.

Rick

Link Posted: 2/27/2006 7:11:18 AM EDT

What do you guys mean by supporting the tang?


Drill a hole in a piece of wood just a little bigger than the size of the roll pin. Then rest the "wing" of the lower on the wood, with the pin directly above the hole. Now you can drive out the pin. A little penetrating oil will help if you let is set for a while.

To put the new one in, do the same, but no need to align the pin with the hole in the wood since the pin will not be going through the other side. The wings that hold the guard in place are thin, and are not designed to take impact from the side without support. I recommend putting a little oil on the new pin also.

I have seen more than a few posts here from people that have broken the wings.
Link Posted: 2/27/2006 7:22:27 AM EDT
I always oil any pin that i am putting back into the AR. New build or rebuild, I oil it.
Link Posted: 2/27/2006 8:30:48 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Tempest45:

What do you guys mean by supporting the tang?


Drill a hole in a piece of wood just a little bigger than the size of the roll pin. Then rest the "wing" of the lower on the wood, with the pin directly above the hole. Now you can drive out the pin. A little penetrating oil will help if you let is set for a while.

To put the new one in, do the same, but no need to align the pin with the hole in the wood since the pin will not be going through the other side. The wings that hold the guard in place are thin, and are not designed to take impact from the side without support. I recommend putting a little oil on the new pin also.

I have seen more than a few posts here from people that have broken the wings.



Yep, what he said.

For further clarification, when you're driving the pin thru the top tang, the bottom tang is supported by the wood. Before driving the pin thru the top tang, make sure the top tang is supported by the new trigger guard, which is supported by the bottom tang, which is supported by the wood.

Hope that's clear.


Link Posted: 2/28/2006 4:03:59 AM EDT
I found the vise grips to work well for installing the trigger guard pin.
GOOD roll punches are also mandatory.

I have a Lyman set and its total CRAP. I bought it from Midway thinking it was a decent set but the 1/16" punch snapped like a twig. I ordered a Starrett set since they are 1 piece precision ground hardened steel. The Lymans are cheap Chinese 2 piece? steel, not hardened at ALL. Your 3/32" punch will become a 3/32" + some squashed steel punch after a few hits with a small and light hammer.
Link Posted: 2/28/2006 5:59:40 AM EDT
I have both grace regular punches and some roll pin punches I bought from brownells. No idea who made them but they are holding up rather well.
Link Posted: 2/28/2006 6:47:00 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Gregory_K:
I have both grace regular punches and some roll pin punches I bought from brownells. No idea who made them but they are holding up rather well.



As are my roll pin punches from Brownells, not that they see constant use.

Link Posted: 2/28/2006 7:02:32 AM EDT
Starrett
Link Posted: 3/2/2006 11:04:22 AM EDT

Originally Posted By metroplex:
Starrett



+1

I have a set of starrett punches, and they are high quality!
Link Posted: 3/3/2006 12:39:36 AM EDT

Originally Posted By metroplex:
I have a Lyman set and its total CRAP. I bought it from Midway thinking it was a decent set but the 1/16" punch snapped like a twig. I ordered a Starrett set since they are 1 piece precision ground hardened steel. The Lymans are cheap Chinese 2 piece? steel, not hardened at ALL. Your 3/32" punch will become a 3/32" + some squashed steel punch after a few hits with a small and light hammer.



My Lyman punches are 20 years old and work fine. Sounds like maybe they have changes suppliers.
Link Posted: 3/3/2006 1:03:25 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/3/2006 2:55:17 AM EDT by metroplex]
The Starett punches are 1 piece formed from hardened steel with a taper near the "base" of the punch for more support. The Lyman punches I have appear to be 2 piece, and the punch itself is just a straight piece of steel that goes into the handle. The Lyman punches started changing shape/size after a few uses so the steel is fairly soft. I basically only saved $10 by going with the Lyman punches. After maybe a few dozen or so uses, the 1/16" Lyman just snapped at the base of the punch (where it meets the larger handle part).
It had started to bend prior to that (bent like a soft piece of steel) and the impact points started to swell from the force of the small hammer (probably 2lb-3lb hammer).

I found the Starett punches on eBay for $28 shipped. I use Starett precision instruments and gauges and find they're all quality pieces (gauges are hardened steel, good stuff) and it appears their punches are made of the same type of material but probably a different heat treatment (to prevent it from being brittle).

I'm sure Lyman changed suppliers over the years. Many US companies are now outsourcing parts overseas.
Link Posted: 3/7/2006 3:49:11 AM EDT
I bought a decent set at Sears for $20 for 6 punches. Craftsman, any problems return for a new set
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