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Posted: 1/27/2006 6:38:42 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/27/2006 6:40:47 PM EDT by MervedAbout]
Yea, this is a stupid problem, but its a problem nonetheless.

I usually run a patch in the loop at the back of a bore snake to check how clean it is, but somehow it got stuck about an inch and a half into the bore. Can't pull the snake out for the life of me, so I've got a patch stuck in there, along with a bunch of the snake, with the majority of the snake coming out the front.

Right now, I've got it soaking in CLP after spraying a shitload in there. If that doesnt work I suppose there would need to be some way of pulling the patch out with some tweezers or something, or kind of tearing it with a sharp object to decrease the amount of material. Any other solutions?

Anyway. Yea, it's dumb. I know.

Thanks in advance.
Link Posted: 1/27/2006 9:47:18 PM EDT
Howabout tying the front end of the snake to a metal tool (such as a wrench). Then twist the wrench until the snake is much less stretchy and tight. Then pull from the bore end...???
Link Posted: 1/28/2006 4:54:50 AM EDT
you could try reversing the direction of pull. Provided you can grab the other end.
Link Posted: 1/28/2006 10:58:43 AM EDT
Nah, I can't get to it, as the patch is right at the end of the throat. I think some needle nose pliers might work to get it out...
Link Posted: 1/28/2006 3:02:22 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/28/2006 3:05:59 PM EDT by mack69]
Double tap...sorry!
Link Posted: 1/28/2006 3:02:53 PM EDT
If ya can't get it from the throat try clamping the end at the muzzle in a bench vise then pull the gun towards you. Should come right out. Good luck....
Link Posted: 1/28/2006 5:48:11 PM EDT
A coathanger will fit from the muzzle end. Be very careful.
Link Posted: 1/28/2006 6:10:51 PM EDT
I would be patient and thoughtfull in how you attack this so you don't ruin your barrel. I definately wouldn't put needle nose pliers or other hardend steel tools in your chamber. I wonder if a 4" long wood screw would work? Work it straight into the chamber and see if you can get the screw to thread into the patch, and then use the needle nose pliers to pull it out. The screw should be softer than your chamber wall, but be as gentle as you can anyway. Let us know how you finally get it out. Good luck!
Link Posted: 1/28/2006 6:36:43 PM EDT
Great idea Dilbert. Will keep you all posted.

Suddenly, I feel like a surgeon.
Link Posted: 2/4/2006 4:55:05 PM EDT
Here's a trick from my muzzleloading days: Put an air hose in the breech end of the barrel and give it a blast! You prob'ly want to seal it some way, like with a rubber grommet. Also seal the gas tube to keep the air pressure from leaking away.
Link Posted: 2/5/2006 10:13:57 AM EDT
Wouldn't firing a blank force out a stuck wad also? Just how bad an idea would that be?
Link Posted: 2/5/2006 1:11:12 PM EDT
prety stupid idea to use a balnk.
Link Posted: 2/5/2006 5:07:37 PM EDT
Yea.

Well, the update is that it' still lodged in there. I did try the wood screw idea, but it can't get a good enough "thread" so all I manage to do is rip up the patch that i can get to. Then I pull what I can up with the end of a rubber coated hanger, or the needle nose pliers.

Still not sure what to do. I guess a vise/or buddy pulling on it is next?
Link Posted: 2/5/2006 11:52:12 PM EDT

Originally Posted By MervedAbout:
Yea.

Well, the update is that it' still lodged in there. I did try the wood screw idea, but it can't get a good enough "thread" so all I manage to do is rip up the patch that i can get to. Then I pull what I can up with the end of a rubber coated hanger, or the needle nose pliers.

Still not sure what to do. I guess a vise/or buddy pulling on it is next?



You are very patient, I must say! Howabout cutting the bore snake (perhaps about 2-3 inches above the muzzle). Then, stick a 0.17 cal bore cleaning rod (no jag or brush) down the middle of the bore snake. Once the rod can go no further, a sharp rap with a mallet on the handle of the cleaning rod should force the snake/patch back out of the chamber end.

R.I.P. Bore Snake (but snakes are cheap)
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 8:31:44 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Gregory_K:
prety stupid idea to use a balnk.



But it sounds fun, hold my beer and watch this....
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 5:36:51 PM EDT
Coat hanger, or other very hard wire. Cut length, and bend tip into severe hook. Sharpen point of hook....go fishing in the chamber.

Just be hyper careful you don't scratch the crap outta the chamber walls.
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 10:02:46 PM EDT
Since it will likely burn very well soaked in clp, why not put a lighter to it. Should burn it enough for it to shrink so you can pull it out.
Link Posted: 2/8/2006 2:54:54 AM EDT
what about compressed air?
90 psi, with something to seal off the gas tube.
it should shoot out the patch with the pressure.
Link Posted: 2/8/2006 7:17:52 AM EDT
Boy, this thread really makes me want to own a bore snake...


.
Link Posted: 2/8/2006 7:29:15 AM EDT

Originally Posted By LOW2000:
Since it will likely burn very well soaked in clp, why not put a lighter to it. Should burn it enough for it to shrink so you can pull it out.



As wacky as this sounds, it just might work. Of course, that is assuming CLP is flammable. I've never tried to light it up. Of course, you might wind up with a lot of melted nylon sticking to your rifling. MJD
Link Posted: 2/8/2006 7:29:32 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Gregory_K:
prety stupid idea to use a balnk.



Indeed! Use a LIVE ROUND!!
Link Posted: 2/8/2006 7:44:42 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/8/2006 7:50:36 AM EDT by BerlinVet]
I wonder if a long surgical forcep that locks would do the trick...



Click here and scroll down the page to the 24" long serrated forceps.
Link Posted: 2/8/2006 8:11:14 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Lem:
Boy, this thread really makes me want to own a bore snake...


.



The problem started when the OP did not use the bore snake as intended. I have two snakes (.22 and .30) but do not use them because the Otis does a much better job (I can just toss away the dirty patches).

Ever try washing CLP soaked cotton w/o tossing it into a washing machine?
Link Posted: 2/8/2006 8:11:46 AM EDT
If you people would just stick to USGI kits there would be no problems.
Just how fast and quick is the snake now?
Link Posted: 2/8/2006 8:21:35 AM EDT
The USGI kit with the 3/4 piece steel rods?? I'd pass on those and stick to the Otis. I know people recommend Dewey 1 piece rods but the Otis is much easier to use and store.
Link Posted: 2/8/2006 8:50:52 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Gregory_K:
If you people would just stick to USGI kits there would be no problems.
Just how fast and quick is the snake now?



Read the post above yours. The problem was not with the Bore Snake, the problem was the misuse of the Bore Snake. Crap 3 or maybe even 2 patches into your eylet and push it into your bore and see how easily it comes out. Or doesn't.
Link Posted: 2/8/2006 8:56:38 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Unicorn:

Originally Posted By Gregory_K:
If you people would just stick to USGI kits there would be no problems.
Just how fast and quick is the snake now?



Read the post above yours. The problem was not with the Bore Snake, the problem was the misuse of the Bore Snake. Crap 3 or maybe even 2 patches into your eylet and push it into your bore and see how easily it comes out. Or doesn't.



Why would anyone do that?

Plus if you just use a conventional rod or GI kit, you can pull our patches thru the bore. If a patch is too tight, just push it back thru the chamber.
Link Posted: 2/8/2006 11:29:03 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/8/2006 11:34:07 AM EDT by lobsterman]

Originally Posted By another_shooter:

Originally Posted By MervedAbout:
Yea.

Well, the update is that it' still lodged in there. I did try the wood screw idea, but it can't get a good enough "thread" so all I manage to do is rip up the patch that i can get to. Then I pull what I can up with the end of a rubber coated hanger, or the needle nose pliers.

Still not sure what to do. I guess a vise/or buddy pulling on it is next?



You are very patient, I must say! Howabout cutting the bore snake (perhaps about 2-3 inches above the muzzle). Then, stick a 0.17 cal bore cleaning rod (no jag or brush) down the middle of the bore snake. Once the rod can go no further, a sharp rap with a mallet on the handle of the cleaning rod should force the snake/patch back out of the chamber end.

R.I.P. Bore Snake (but snakes are cheap)



that was hilarious! No offense to the original poster as i've done dummer things than that as i would guess most of us have. sounds like bad luck with the boresnake, i thought they were fool proof.
i once got my trowser snake stuck, a vice and a half gallon of vegetable oil and two hours later i was no worse for the wear. good luck if it is still stuck.
Link Posted: 2/9/2006 7:08:22 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/11/2006 10:28:20 AM EDT by Gravitas1]
Any updates? I have the same problem. It's soaking in LUBE as I type this.

ETA I finally got that f*ck*r out. just used some drain-o. Is it bad that I don't see any rifling in my barrel anymore?
Link Posted: 2/9/2006 10:40:52 PM EDT
BTW, another thing you could try would be to use some sort of delrin or fiberglass or wood rod/dowel slightly smaller than the bore and drive it out.
Link Posted: 2/9/2006 10:50:41 PM EDT
You said the wood screw didn't work, try a long sheet rock screw, they will grab much better than the wood screw. I would work on reversing it not pulling it thru.
Link Posted: 2/11/2006 5:27:57 PM EDT

Originally Posted By LOW2000:
Wouldn't firing a blank force out a stuck wad also? Just how bad an idea would that be?



Extremely bad idea. You see, when a bullet is fired, the pressure increases gradually.... the bullet actually begins moving before the powder is fully expended (burned)... so the gradually burning powder has somewhere to expand in to... and still pushes the bullet out the end of the barrel.

The problem here is similar to that encountered when a previously-fired bullet gets stuck in the barrel. The powder pressure curve goes WAAAY over the limit of the barrel's ability to withstand the pressure... and kaBOOM happens.
Link Posted: 2/11/2006 9:58:08 PM EDT

Originally Posted By FrankSymptoms:

Originally Posted By LOW2000:
Wouldn't firing a blank force out a stuck wad also? Just how bad an idea would that be?



Extremely bad idea. You see, when a bullet is fired, the pressure increases gradually.... the bullet actually begins moving before the powder is fully expended (burned)... so the gradually burning powder has somewhere to expand in to... and still pushes the bullet out the end of the barrel.

The problem here is similar to that encountered when a previously-fired bullet gets stuck in the barrel. The powder pressure curve goes WAAAY over the limit of the barrel's ability to withstand the pressure... and kaBOOM happens.



Aren't most blanks either loaded very light or primer only though? The difference between this and a squib is that there is no 2nd bullet slamming into something already there, just the gasses forcing their way out similar to a blackpowder rifle firing only a wad.
Link Posted: 2/11/2006 10:04:36 PM EDT
Coathanger, from the muzzle, pops it right out. It's not that hard.
Link Posted: 2/13/2006 9:57:40 AM EDT

Originally Posted By markm:

Originally Posted By Unicorn:

Originally Posted By Gregory_K:
If you people would just stick to USGI kits there would be no problems.
Just how fast and quick is the snake now?



Read the post above yours. The problem was not with the Bore Snake, the problem was the misuse of the Bore Snake. Crap 3 or maybe even 2 patches into your eylet and push it into your bore and see how easily it comes out. Or doesn't.



Why would anyone do that?

Plus if you just use a conventional rod or GI kit, you can pull our patches thru the bore. If a patch is too tight, just push it back thru the chamber.



First I meant cram, not crap. Don't know how I mistyped that.
Some people want a very tight patch for whatever reason.
The Bore Snake is great for quick cleaning, say at the end of the shooting day before you pack up for home. I don't like the uncoated steel rods, especially the screw together kind that will have the sharp edges. They will rub against the bore. Probably won't cause any damage, the chrome is probably 4 times harder than the rod, but still. I just use the bore Snake for quick cleanings and a coated rod back at home.
Link Posted: 2/13/2006 1:07:22 PM EDT

Originally Posted By BerlinVet:
I wonder if a long surgical forcep that locks would do the trick...

www.azgardens.com/images/tools-FCP-80-53THUMB.gif

Click here and scroll down the page to the 24" long serrated forceps.


I had this same problem and tried a pair of those, if the patch is really stuck these won't get them out. You'll be able to clamp onto the patch, but no matter how tight or hard you keep it, the patch will slide out of it.

When I had this problem, I tried everything and what I found to work was using a sharp pick and I simply picked away material from the patch until the patch was small enough to be easily pulled out.
Link Posted: 2/15/2006 5:30:28 AM EDT
If all else fails, take your upper to the local Smith, look him straight in the eye, and tell him your brother did it.
Link Posted: 2/17/2006 3:35:04 PM EDT
We need an update!

In the meantime, here's another thought. Purchase 5000 Units of Cellulase derived from the fungus, Aspergillus niger (this would be about 20 bucks from Sigma Chemical Company in St Louis, catalog # C1184). One unit is defined as liberating 1 µmole of glucose from cellulose in 1 hour at 37° C, pH 5 and I'd guess buffered in phosphate buffered saline. Since 1 Unit is about 3 mg in this particular product, I'd say make a solution of about 10 mg/mL... maybe make about 5 mL of this stuff. Drop the solution into the chamber and allow it to soak the cotton patch. Incubate your gun somewhere warm.

Store the remaining Cellulase in the freezer (2-8° C)... you'll never know when you may need it again when you use the "Boresnake-patch method."

The cotton patches should dissolve (hopefully, the Boresnake is not cotton). 1 µmole of glucose is about 180 µg (glucose is about 180 grams/mole). So, if a patch weighs about 5 grams (I'm guessing), the 15 Units of Cellulase you added should dissolve about 2.7 mg or about 1/20th per cent of the patch. This really should be adequate, but you may wish to add some fresh Cellulase and soak longer.

NOTE: The gun stores probably will not carry Cellulase, and if they did, they may know it by it's actual name "1,4-[1,3;1,4]-beta-D-glucan 4-glucanohydrolase."
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