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Posted: 4/17/2003 9:51:20 PM EDT
| I have started using CLP to clean and maintain everything on my AR's. Do you all do the same? But you don't want teflon in the bore right? |
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I use Miltec as a lubricant and CLP as a rust inhibitor. The Military [b]tried[/b] to teach me to use CLP as a bore cleaner...but I wasn't buying it. After seeing the groups on my M16 starting to open up, I snuck a cleaning with Hoppes copper solvent and a steel bristle brush. TONS of green copper came out. And not suprisingly, the rifle grouped tighter. Take it for what its worth, but IME, CLP does not remove copper fouling. |
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You are correct, CLP will NOT remove copper fouling. Personally, I do not use CLP in the bore of my rifles. Just like you, the teflon will cause some squirrely shots until it is all burned out. Breakfree makes another product called LP as I recall and it is a bit thicker than CLP and does not have the teflon in it. I use it to inhibit rust and it stays put better than CLP. |
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NO, not for me, I use Sweets 7.62 as a bore cleaner, SuperTech 2000 carb cleaner (from Walmart, clean, no bad chemicals) for rinsing out ALL the 7.62 and Break Free for bore/rifle lube if rifle is to be stored for any length of time, otherwise no CLP in bore, mostly the b/bc/ch area and trigger. Mike |
| I bought that supertec carb cleaner too, it was 78 cents a can. A few problems with it I think, one it stinks big time, and two it has I think acetone or something like that in it. I use it to clean my brushes/jags/etc, and I use gunscrubber to rinse out the barrel. I use to use the gunscrubber on everything but, that stuff is expensive! |
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I used Gun Scrubber in the past to rinse actions after cleaning with Hoppes. I'm pretty sure though that a $1. can of brake cleaner or carb cleaner does just as good a job. I use brake cleaner to rinse after brushing with Hoppes, then a light coat of CLP. Never use it on plastic parts though (got a Marlin 60 with a perfect cast of my fingerprint on the trigger guard). I had a bad experience with Gun Scrubber a few years ago. I got some under my wedding ring and it must have set up some kind of chemical reaction as I ended up with a chemical burn that blistered my finger where the ring had been. I cleaned the ring and, after my finger healed, started wearing it again and had the same thing happen when I would sweat under the ring. I cleaned that ring a few times with various products and always had the same results when I would get sweat under it. Much to my wifes dismay I had to quit wearing the ring. She eventually bought me a new one and never had that problem again. Still have the old ring, but haven't had the guts to try it again. Nowadays I wear a pair of latex gloves for cleaning and take the rings off. YMMV. |
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Avoid using carburator cleaners-they strip all of the oils off and they remove the finish. Something most people in the military are not aware of (also because most people don't read the 10 level manual or are aware that one exists)is that there is a dedicated barrel cleaning compound available: it is called RBC (Rifle Bore Cleaner-or something to that effect) it can be ordered through your units' POL shop. I order it all the time. |
| I use CLP on most of the firearm. But I dont use in the the trigger area. Use Rem Oil in the trigger area. I found that CLP gets kinda gummy around the springs, etc. I like to use a good bore cleaner in the barrel, then lightly oil it...but always run a couple of clean patches before heading to the range. |
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Per the recommendation of many on this site I tried CLP and still use it sometimes. Being old school, I did a comparison to LSA and found the LSA to lubricate and adhere somewhat better. What I have centered on is a good solvent to clean my barrel and CLP for field use so that I can do a quick clean and relube, however for storage I revert, after a good solvent clean, back to LSA. Short trips to the ranges <400 rounds, I stick with the LSA. This is a personal preference but seems to give superior performance for the situations. |
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I'm pretty new to AR's and long guns myself. But what I've had good luck with is the standard proven stuff. Hoppes #9 to clean. LSA or Miltec to lube. For the bore I start with Hoppes then use RB-17 on the brush(similar to Sweets 7.62 I believe) and let it sit. Then a patch or two of Hoppes followed by dry patches. The RB-17 gets the copper out and the bore is really clean afterwards. Pretty much the same method I use cleaning pistols. There's probably too much emphasis on what lube you use. Most gun or motor oils are good enough to do the job. It's hard to believe that what a gun goes through mechanically and heat wise is more demanding than a engine. |
| LP is just CLP without the solvent. You can also get Break-Free Bore Cleaner, which is just the solvent without the lubricant or preservative in it. Also, you can get Break-Free Collector, which is just the rust inhibitor without the lubricant or solvent. I guess you could mix them all together and make CLP if you wanted to! The Break-Free Bore Cleaner works pretty good. Use it with a phosphor-bronze brush and some elbow grease and it will get the copper out of your barrel without putting caustic ammonia in your bore. Sweets 7.62 works great for getting copper out, but it also attacks the steel of the barrel as well. Just my 2-cents worth. Use what you want in your rifle. |
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I use CLP and CLP only most of the time. Works fine. If you see groups start to suffer then you clean out the copper with a copper solvent. However this should take 1000's of rounds before it gets that bad. When I need to clean the copper (only had to twice so far - about 7K of 5.56 & 1000's of .22LR) I use Hoppes Copper Remove then clean the rifle with Gun Scrubber to remove any traces of the bore cleaner before reapplying CLP. |
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