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Posted: 12/2/2015 1:13:48 PM EDT
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I have read on here from Dano that when the charging handle is pulled to the rear the bolt face should be 1/8" or 1/4" in front of the rear ejection port window. My build the bolt face is flush with the rear of the ejection window. Now I recall after reading about this I went and checked the one I built and it was in front of the ejection window. Now when I check it is flush. Has only been 500 or less rounds between the checks.
What would cause the change? Is there are potential concern of the bolt face being flush with the window? I have little over 700 total rounds through it with no malfunctions. |
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Quoted:
Dano, the bottom lip of the buffer tube is slightly touching the retaining pin. So if you face the bottom lip .056" back, this will allow you to spin the tube in one more wind, which beings the back void of the tube .056 forward as well, and limits the B/C more forward against the ejection port window forward. Hence the glitch, the void depth of the tube is slightly too deep to begin with. |
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Quoted:
So if you face the bottom lip .056" back, this will allow you to spin the tube in one more wind, which beings the back void of the tube .056 forward as well, and limits the B/C more forward against the ejection port window forward. Hence the glitch, the void depth of the tube is slightly too deep to begin with. Quoted:
Quoted:
Dano, the bottom lip of the buffer tube is slightly touching the retaining pin. So if you face the bottom lip .056" back, this will allow you to spin the tube in one more wind, which beings the back void of the tube .056 forward as well, and limits the B/C more forward against the ejection port window forward. Hence the glitch, the void depth of the tube is slightly too deep to begin with. Just use files to face the tube? |
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Mill is faster, but you can use a file if push comes to shove to do it by hand.
Just use a caliper to scribe index line to give you an idea of how far back you need to face the end of the tube, and do a couple of dry fittings along the way with the buffer retainer pin in place. |
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Quoted:
Mill is faster, but you can use a file if push comes to shove to do it by hand. Just use a caliper to scribe index line to give you an idea of how far back you need to face the end of the tube, and do a couple of dry fittings along the way with the buffer retainer pin in place. So agree that a mill be faster, but I don't have access to one. It's hand files or dremel. Good tip on the scribe line. |
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