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Posted: 5/29/2013 6:55:52 AM EDT
| I've noticed an issue with my latest build - I seem to get a few FTFs within the first 10 rounds. After that, everything hums along. I only have about 300 rounds or so down the pipe so far. I totally realize this could be an ammo issue (AE223), but was curious if anyone else has had this problem. It took a few outings to notice the trend, so next time I'm going to start out with some different rounds in the first mag. Everything else on this rifle is fine - never an issue cycling, feeding, or anything else. I'm wondering if it's possibly a lube issue, or a wonky hammer spring. The lower is built with a Spike's enhanced LPK (battle trigger), bolt is a CMT Tactical. |
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Fire or feed?
Either way, pull the bolt off the carrier, and use the carrier alone in the upper receiver to confirm that that gas tube is correctly aligned with the carrier key. If fire and you have check the gas tube to key, and sure that the B/C is fully locked home, then pull the hammer, give the channel a good cleaning, and reinstall the hammer and pin with the both CLP lubed. Also, when you reinstall the hammer, make sure that the spring legs come out on the bottom of the coil, then rest of top of the hammer pin. Here, some times the hammer spring gets installed backwards, with the spring legs out of the coil on top instead (read spring coil should be getting smaller when the hammer comes back, not larger). If feed, then the key to gas tube alignent check for binding is a good start, but pull the Buffer and recoil spring, give then a good cleaning, and reinstall them with CLP lube as well. Also, make sure that you are fully CLP lubing the upper bearing areas from the start, and not just a touch of lube that is having to migrate to the rest of the upper bearing areas as the rifle is being fired instead. The down and dirty way to lube is just shot a coat of CLP on the B/C inside and out, put it into the upper, and just dry cycle the action a few times to migrate it that way. |
| When it fails to fire is the bolt locked in full battery? If not, I am thinking that it could be the O-ring around the extractor spring. When it is cold the O-ring will be really stiff and could cause the bolt to not lock in properly but as it warms up it becomes more malleable. If you have the O-ring on there it might be worth taking off just to see. |
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