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Posted: 9/20/2012 8:14:12 AM EDT
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Stag Arms Model 1
Removing the from sight and replacing it with a gas block. I know the pins are tapered and I am positive that I am driving them out the right way. I have a sight jig from Brownells. I have broken 3 pin punches trying to get these damn things out. No way they should be this hard to get out! Any assistance is appreciated. I called Stag and they offered NO HELP except to say if it's not described in the manual take it to a smith or send it back! Total BS and poor customer service IMO. David |
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Quoted:
They go out from left to right. +1 This. Use a larger diameter brass punch, and a larger hammer to get it started if it is really that hard to remove. This way you can really hit the pin and not be as concerned about damaging anything. This is assuming of course your pin is slightly protruding out of the hole and able to be hit with a larger diameter punch. The brass will cause no permanent marks or damage. The brass marks left can be gently scrubbed off when you are done. After the pin has started, use an appropriate sized smaller diameter steel punch to finish driving it out. Note: Do this on a solid surface. |
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Here's how to remove stubborn pins:
First, you have to get the barrel in a FIRM no move-no bounce well braced setup. If necessary, set it up on a concrete floor. The usual shop bench will allow movement. If when you strike the pin the barrel moves or bounces the force will be dissipated and the pins may deform, locking even tighter in place. If necessary, recruit a buddy to help hold it in place. Use hard wood blocks to position and brace the barrel. Next, buy or make a starter pin punch. This is a punch that's been cut off to about a 1/2" working length. The shorter punch won't flex or bend, again dissipating the force. It's using a standard length punch to start a tight pin that usually causes trouble getting pins out. You can buy a standard Sears steel punch and cut it off, or you can buy a nail set and stone the end flat. Either will give you a non flexing or bending punch that will direct all the force to the pin. Use a larger hammer, preferably a dead blow hammer. Again, this will direct all force to the pin. Use the starter punch and hammer to get the pins moving. Once they're moving out of the hole, switch to a standard length punch to complete removal. As above, you can apply some Kroil to the pins and let it soak overnight to ease removal. "Most" (but not all) firearms pins are removed by driving them from LEFT to right, as you look toward the muzzle and the standard AR is usually this way. NOTE: I've heard that there are some AR rifles in which the pins come out the opposite. Look at the pin heads to determine which end is larger. So, put the barrel on a FIRM surface and use wood blocks to brace it. Use short starter pin punches to start the pins moving. |
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SC Dave
Look at it this way. The FSB isn't designed to be taken off on a regular basis. It's like buying a new car and asking the dealer how to take out a transmission. I wouldn't hold the manufacturer responsible for not wanting to help you modify something they built. All that said, glad to hear you got it off. |
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Quoted:
Thanks for the help guys, I gotem out but it was a b_ _ _h!!!!! I am really disapointed that Stag was not helpful AT ALL with this! David Why? It isn't a defect on Stag's part. While the procedure isn't that difficult, it is considered an armorer level function. If you called Colt with the same request, I'm sure the results would be similar. |
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