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Posted: 9/27/2010 10:08:02 AM EDT
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**** Also posted in the build section***
Ol' Dumba** here went to change out his triggerguard (heck, I've done 3 before) and broke off one the ears on his lower. Can this be epoxied or welded back? Best way? TIA |
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| IMO, buy him a new lower. You mucked up his lower and he trusted you to do it right, not mess it up and then cover it up with a new grip. Get him a new lower, do it right this time, and then of course you take the old lower and do with it what you want. I know if I trusted someone to do something to my rifle and they mucked it up, damned if I would be happy with something that just covered up the mess. Lowers are not that expensive and while you may not be able to get him the exact lower he had, at least you can get him a good new lower such as a Spikes and it would be better than a cover up. Ask him and let him decide what will make him happy. You owe him that when you agreed to work on his rifle. |
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Quoted:
IMO, buy him a new lower. You mucked up his lower and he trusted you to do it right, not mess it up and then cover it up with a new grip. Get him a new lower, do it right this time, and then of course you take the old lower and do with it what you want. I know if I trusted someone to do something to my rifle and they mucked it up, damned if I would be happy with something that just covered up the mess. Lowers are not that expensive and while you may not be able to get him the exact lower he had, at least you can get him a good new lower such as a Spikes and it would be better than a cover up. Ask him and let him decide what will make him happy. You owe him that when you agreed to work on his rifle. Why dont you advise him of the proper method for installing the pin. Id like to know also. Thanks |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
IMO, buy him a new lower. You mucked up his lower and he trusted you to do it right, not mess it up and then cover it up with a new grip. Get him a new lower, do it right this time, and then of course you take the old lower and do with it what you want. I know if I trusted someone to do something to my rifle and they mucked it up, damned if I would be happy with something that just covered up the mess. Lowers are not that expensive and while you may not be able to get him the exact lower he had, at least you can get him a good new lower such as a Spikes and it would be better than a cover up. Ask him and let him decide what will make him happy. You owe him that when you agreed to work on his rifle. Why dont you advise him of the proper method for installing the pin. Id like to know also. Thanks Seriously? Support the ear with a block of wood. |
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I've seen the support the ear with a block solution, and it's fine to do this, but I'd like to offer up a different solution I've found to be nice. I have a C clamp that is wider in opening that the receiver ears plus the length of the pin. I have drilled a very short hole in the solid side of the C clamp almost the same diameter as the roll pin (ever so slightly larger so the pin will fit in it.) The faces of the C-Clamp are covered with duct tape to reduce the chance of scaring the lower. The rotating head side of the clamp is allowed to turn so that it stays put against the receiver as the c-clamp screw is turned. Cut a q-tip stemshorter than the roll pin. Install the front detent pin to hold the guard mostly in place. I then insert the q-tip stem in the rear pin slot to keep the guard and receiver holes in line with each other. Then the pin is inserted into the c clamp hole, and the clamp slowly closed till the roll pin is started through the receiver and guard. I back the clamp back out and drop the q-tip out of the hole. Then put the clamp back on, and by screwing the clamp closed, the roll pin goes in smoothly with the ears and guard always in compression solid with each other with only the roll pin sliding through the hole. Once I've run out of travel on the clamp, I back it off, reposition the clamp to where the remaining pin is against the flat of the clamp and tighten it down the rest of the way to bring the pin flush from the install side. Sure, its not as brute force as a punch and a hammer, but it is a good way to avoid banging on a very breakable section of hardware. If anything slips, well, nothing happens because no hammer is mid strike when slippage happens. |
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