AR Sponsor
Posted: 5/26/2010 8:28:33 PM EDT
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a day at the range, some shitty wolf ammo, and a stuck round in the chamber. only thing is, this thing is just not coming out. i've ruined a one piece rod already.
i know this is fairly common, and its happened to me before but they normally knock right out. can someone recommend a good penetrating spray to soak this thing in??? i'm gonna try a wooden dowel rod tomorrow unless someone has a better method to recommend. 
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Quoted:
have you looked into a commercial Broken Shell Extractor? I am going to get one, I was told they are almost mandatory with the AR platform. The case is not broken, so a BSE would be of no use here. OP, Got any Kroil? Stand your upper on end and pour a couple ounces down the barrel and let it sit overnight. Hopefully the Kroil will loosen things up a bit. |
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THe bolt is unlocked and locked back, and now you just need to knock out the spent case chamber wedged, correct?
If so, the all you need is a steel one piece cleaning rod for that. On the other hand, if you are trying to get the bolt unlocked via any kind of rod down the muzzle, you are wasting your time. The bolt only unlocks via being cam'ed/twisted by the carrier moving back, so learn to butt stock blow while charging handle pulling first to get the bolt unlocked, then lock it back on the bolt catch, then finally use the rod to clear the spent case from the chamber. |
| it is a fired case, not a live round. the bolt is locked back and i have an empty mag inserted to prevent it from slamming forward on it. i have already bent a one-piece cleaning rod trying to knock it out. i will try some kroil if i can find some. is that avail. at home depot or wal-mart??? |
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Quoted: it is a fired case, not a live round. the bolt is locked back and i have an empty mag inserted to prevent it from slamming forward on it. i have already bent a one-piece cleaning rod trying to knock it out. i will try some kroil if i can find some. is that avail. at home depot or wal-mart??? If you can't find Kroil use Liquid Wrench. |
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Bolt locked back, insert a steel one piece cleaning rod down the muzzle and rest it against the case base web (not a three piece or single piece aluminum one).
Now just give the cleaning handle a hard smack with your hand to clear the spent case with the butt stock on the ground. If that did not clear it, then pick up a piece of wood and give the handle a even harder single love tap. Don't do multi light taps, but a single hard blow to clear the case. |
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ok i got it out. i ruined my cheapo rod but my Dewey rod worked. i had the stock resting on the ground and it wouldn't come out no matter how hard i hit it, then i picked it up and held the rifle in one hand and the rod in the other and it knocked right out with very littlle effort. don't know if I loosened it and it was just on the verge of coming out or if it made a difference not having the gun resting on the garage floor. either way, its out and i'm throwing 5 left over mags of wolf in the garbage.
thanks for the help guys |
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Quoted:
ok i got it out. i ruined my cheapo rod but my Dewey rod worked. i had the stock resting on the ground and it wouldn't come out no matter how hard i hit it, then i picked it up and held the rifle in one hand and the rod in the other and it knocked right out with very littlle effort. don't know if I loosened it and it was just on the verge of coming out or if it made a difference not having the gun resting on the garage floor. either way, its out and i'm throwing 5 left over mags of wolf in the garbage. thanks for the help guys It's not a ammo problem, but a lubing and cleaning problem on your part. |
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Quoted:
ok i got it out. i ruined my cheapo rod but my Dewey rod worked. i had the stock resting on the ground and it wouldn't come out no matter how hard i hit it, then i picked it up and held the rifle in one hand and the rod in the other and it knocked right out with very littlle effort. don't know if I loosened it and it was just on the verge of coming out or if it made a difference not having the gun resting on the garage floor. either way, its out and i'm throwing 5 left over mags of wolf in the garbage. thanks for the help guys send me the ammo, don't throw it away, wolf ammo works in ALL my guns |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
ok i got it out. i ruined my cheapo rod but my Dewey rod worked. i had the stock resting on the ground and it wouldn't come out no matter how hard i hit it, then i picked it up and held the rifle in one hand and the rod in the other and it knocked right out with very littlle effort. don't know if I loosened it and it was just on the verge of coming out or if it made a difference not having the gun resting on the garage floor. either way, its out and i'm throwing 5 left over mags of wolf in the garbage. thanks for the help guys It's not a ammo problem, but a lubing and cleaning problem on your part. i love your technical advice Dano but you have no business telling me about my lubing and cleaning habits. I chamber brush the hell out of my weapon and run it wet. the only malfunction i've ever had with brass ammo is my castle nut backed off once, now its staked. with wolf, i get a failure to extract about every 200 rounds, just never before like this one. its like it was spot welded into the chamber. let me state again Dano, your technical expertise seems to be limitless, but dont make assumptions about me. i'm fanatical about weapons maintanance and running my rifle wet. |
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Short of having a Bushmaster barrel that the chamber is tighter in the cross wall specs to begin with ( and can be a tad rough as well when new), myself and others have run wolf coated ammo through rigs in the thousands between cleanings; with a great deal of such run through full auto rigs that the barrel where just short of cooking off rounds before giving the rifles a break. Better yet, I was running Wolf ammo in C mags when I was testing at what point a gas tube would blow doing mag dumps back to back as well (Half way through the third mag is anyone was wondering).
Even further, I have run hundreds of rounds through a CMP at a time to get trigger time in alone, and when you talk about tight chambers, this one is right up there (getting about 2moa with 62 grains and close enough for short range practice work). Simply, the coating on the coated cases is going to be scrapped off (not cooked off), putting poly powderized fouling not only in the chamber, but in the action as well. The upper bearing surfaces run wetter with CLP does not dissolve such fouling, but aids in such being flush out of the action. Plus the extra/fresh lube every 200 rounds or so, help to keep the upper bearing areas well lubed for when the action does need a bit of help getting a slightly bound spent cause out of the chamber due to such fouling. For for thought, and as always, to be taking with a grain of salt. Dano |
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Just for reference, but I had a similar problem with an old Russian Mosin-Nagant Dragoon rifle. Fired a round, had a LOT of trouble unlocking the bolt, and pulled the extractor through the rim.
I tried everything to get the case out of the rim, including trying to knock it out with a wooden dowel. Nothing worked. I posted about it on a Mosin-Nagant forum, and was told to use the regular cleaning rod that is under the barrel. Turn it over and insert it in the barrel from the muzzle end so the little round knob handle on the rod goes in first. When there's only about a foot of the rod still sticking out of the muzzle, rest the rifle butt on the ground with the barrel pointing straight up, and just let the cleaning rod drop. It popped that sucker right out first try! Mosin-Nagant shooters know haw to make the steel-case commie ammo work. |
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Quoted:
Short of having a Bushmaster barrel that the chamber is tighter in the cross wall specs to begin with ( and can be a tad rough as well when new), myself and others have run wolf coated ammo through rigs in the thousands between cleanings; with a great deal of such run through full auto rigs that the barrel where just short of cooking off rounds before giving the rifles a break. Better yet, I was running Wolf ammo in C mags when I was testing at what point a gas tube would blow doing mag dumps back to back as well (Half way through the third mag is anyone was wondering). Even further, I have run hundreds of rounds through a CMP at a time to get trigger time in alone, and when you talk about tight chambers, this one is right up there (getting about 2moa with 62 grains and close enough for short range practice work). Simply, the coating on the coated cases is going to be scrapped off (not cooked off), putting poly powderized fouling not only in the chamber, but in the action as well. The upper bearing surfaces run wetter with CLP does not dissolve such fouling, but aids in such being flush out of the action. Plus the extra/fresh lube every 200 rounds or so, help to keep the upper bearing areas well lubed for when the action does need a bit of help getting a slightly bound spent cause out of the chamber due to such fouling. For for thought, and as always, to be taking with a grain of salt. Dano i appreciate the advice but i still dont think i'm gonna use steel case ammo anymore. its always been such a frustration for me and this last one ruined my range day completely. maybe my gun just won't eat it for whatever reason, be it a tight chamber or bad luck. what i wish i would have done though, is try firing some brass ammo through my gun after i finally got the wolf round out and before i cleaned it just to see if the 'cruddy chamber' would cause a FTE with the brass as it did with the steel, but i cleaned it immediately 
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