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It has a notched hammer. This is normal.

The charging handle doesn't work? Sounds like a feed ramp problem.

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1. What kind of ammo are you using?
2. When you say stuck, do you mean the bcg is stuck in battery or out of battery i.e. partially open?

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Regarding the jam, should be able to pull down on the charging handle while giving the butt stock a good blow off the ground to extract/clear the live round.  

As for the reason for such, could be a problem with the bolt to carrier, or just that the gas tube is not aligned with the key.  With the gas rings stripped off the bolt, drop the bolt into the carrier and see what the fit is like and where on the bolt does it bind inside the carrier (read smoke the contact part with a marker and see where it's removed.  As for the key to tube, with the stripped carrier and the charging handle removed, drop the carrier into the upper and watch the key mating to the tube..  If needed, pull the hand guards and tweak the tube above the barrel to correct the alignment.

And, are we sure that the receiver extension (end of tube) is installed tight up against the center post (just kissing it) to retain the buffer retainer into the lower receiver channel, and it is not the item popping up to bind the carrier.

If none of these, then check out the cam to confirm that it not clocking sideways and bitting into the upper receiver cam slot.

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If you pull the carrier and the upper, then place a federal round into the barrel and push it down into the chamber, then turn it over will the round drop free of the barrel?

If not your chamber maybe out of spec and too tight causing the cases to wedge... unless I'm reading what you are saying wrong.

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And you are saying this happens when firing say only the Federal new rounds?  I'm asking because typically when I hear something like this and reloads are involved in the same conversation, it's the reloads causing it do to a sizing issue.

In those cases the factory rounds will all fire fine and you'll see the binding on extraction only with the reloads because they weren't sized properly or the case shoulders were bulged just slightly when the bullet was seated.

In a few cases I've seen even properly sized reloads that pass a bullet inspection gauge just fine do it because the chamber was only slightly out of spec, but in those cases generally the same rules apply.  For the most part factory rounds will still function fine and the reloads will jam on extraction.

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Pull down and start from scratch,

With this time confirming that the case are OAL trimmed/unified correctly, full sized correctly, and when/if the bullet is crimped, not done so with so much force that is slightly buckles the shoulders of the case.

as for resizing once you have the bullets pulled from the cases, you can remove the punch from the inner sizing button on the depriming rod and rework the cases without having to deprime/reprime then, but do make sure that the inner sizing button is still in play on the sizer.  

As for batch pulling the bullets from the case, you will find that a bullet pulling die is going to much faster than a knitic hammer, and will not wear your arm out as well.

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Not that much hard work,

Back in my JG match days, I use to buy surplus Corrosive Korean ammo for such since it could be had dirt cheap.

Started by pulling down all the bullet, collecting the powder, then prep'g/unifiying the case. With a bit of testing/develement using the same powder that came with the ammo (non canister 4895) and new primers, had the ammo producing MOA out of the rig.

In the end, I had dirt cheap ammo that was printing MOA out of my JG garand, and served it purpose very well for reduced target and practice loads.

So, don't look at it as hard work, but getting more experience in developing great loads.

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When you set the sizer to kiss the top of the shell holder, make sure that you do this under sizing tension (read case being sized).  If you dry fit the two together with sizing tension, then when the press is under tension, you will find that the bottom of the sizing die is not even close to kissing the shell holder (read cases still not being full sized correctly).


And again, it only takes a little amount of tension to crimp the bullets.  Too much tension from the start will cause the case shoulders to slightly buckle, as well as not having the all the case unified in length since a longer case slipped into the batch lot will have more crimping tension then normal and cause the shoulder buckle.   As for if you are not unifying the case lengths and bullet crimping, then it's time to go with a Lee Factory Crimp Die for crimping since crimp tension is not dependent on the OAL of the case.  Plus, you will find that instead of  trying to bullet seat and crimp at the same time, crimping as a separate stage  after the bullet has been seated before hand, will be more precise.

http://www.leeprecision.com/html/catalog/dies-crimp.html

Note; Don't laugh, its kind of the norm for progressive machine pistol reloader to use a Lee FCD in there machines as the final crimp die since it does not depend on the OAL of the case to set crimp tension, which means that you don't have to unify the entire brass lot before reloading them to get the correct crimp tension with different case lengths all thrown into the hopper.

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Hornaday cam lock bullet puller is what I use, just remember to buy the collet sizes for the bullet diameter that you will be pulling down.

As for me liking it more than the RCBS model, on the RCBS model you have to spin/crack the top collet pressure lever, while on the Hornaday model, it has a cam type lever that is just way easier/faster to use.

I set the puller up in the single stag press about half way down on it's threads for rifle ammo, then drop in a loader round and slowly lower the handle while tightening up the top cam handle until I can feel the bullet slide up in the collet and the face of it hit the top of the case mouth, then while holding the ram handle steady, loosen up the top ram lever until I can cam it down to hold the bullet firmly.   From there on in, its just a matter of dropping a round into the shell holder, lowering the ram handle until the face of the collet contacts the top of the case mouth, cam the lever over and push the handle back up to remove the bullet.  The empty case gets pulled from the holder and it's powder dumped, then reach over with my hand below the puller in the machine, put the cam back upwards and the pulled bullet just drops into my hand.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=851547

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Only one truth that I have found with reloading: you will never save money by doing so in the end.

If that sounds strange, its not since no matter what, you have a set budge that you can spend on ammo, and although you get to shoot  way more when you do reload since the price per round is much cheaper by leaps and bounds, your not going to short change yourself on the amount of money you will spend in the end by shooting less than your budget allows.