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Posted: 9/29/2009 8:22:59 PM EDT
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I know this has been hashed over before. I haven't searched as I am tired and ready for bed. I was trying to get the barrel off the A2 upper from Mod 1 Sales I got a few months back. I swear they must have tack welded it on. I bent teeth trying to bump it off with a dead blow rubber mallet. So now some teeth are bent some and the barrel won't budge. I thought the torque spec was like 50-70 pounds?, not welded on? Since I was going to carry this on duty (glad I won't need it for a while), I was thinking of sending it back to M1S and have them remove it from the upper and fix the nut (replace) so I can put the barrel on the flat-top I got. Or is there a way to save it? I think 3 teeth are bent on the nut. I've removed my Colt barrel before and my Bushmaster. Never had a problem like this. I've also removed a few others for other people. Never has one been this tight. I've heard horror stories from people about things like this. We'll see how this goes or how much this will cost me. Buy quality once, cry once. |
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Quoted:
I know this has been hashed over before. I haven't searched as I am tired and ready for bed. I was trying to get the barrel off the A2 upper from Mod 1 Sales I got a few months back. I swear they must have tack welded it on. I bent teeth trying to bump it off with a dead blow rubber mallet. So now some teeth are bent some and the barrel won't budge. I thought the torque spec was like 50-70 pounds?, not welded on? Since I was going to carry this on duty (glad I won't need it for a while), I was thinking of sending it back to M1S and have them remove it from the upper and fix the nut (replace) so I can put the barrel on the flat-top I got. Or is there a way to save it? I think 3 teeth are bent on the nut. I've removed my Colt barrel before and my Bushmaster. Never had a problem like this. I've also removed a few others for other people. Never has one been this tight. I've heard horror stories from people about things like this. We'll see how this goes or how much this will cost me. Buy quality once, cry once. Penetrating oil is your friend. Like PB blaster. It might smell bad, but its worth it. |
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Guessing that you where using a three prong barrel wrench?
There are full teeth type barrel wrenches, and suggest that you use them in the future (and to get this one off as well). Having to got to a cheater bar/extension should be only saved for the weak. If you can not get the nut off by the above wrench alone, the as stated, either penetrating oil, or even a torch if loctite was used. Going with too much torque to remove the barrel nut is going to end up with the upper receiver bent. The max torque for the nut of 80 lbs goes both ways (tighten and loosing such) If you can swap a barrel correctly, then you should no problems pulling the FSB to change out the barrel nut as well. |
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Thanks guys. I got a great wrench from AZ Ex Arms and all the tools. I've put together many rifles. Never had a problem like this. I haven't tried heat, but I did try a breaker bar (which I hate!) and bumping it with the dead blow. That's how I bent the teeth. I audited a depot level course at Ft. Campbell back in the 80's when I was assigned as a supply Sgt at my Infantry company. I know about M16's. It ain't rocket science. Personally, I think it's just poor QC at M1S. I'm going to box it and ship it back with instructions that they need to remove it from the upper, fix the nut (as the flash hider is welded onto a 14.5) and ship it back. I'll pay for shipping to, but I refuse to pay for the repairs as this is their problem they made into mine. I understand that this could happen to any manufacturer, however, I've not seen it in most other quality companies I've had dealings with. I have friends who have shops that could fix it, but why should I pay for this when the problem is over-torque? I've put 20 rounds through it and it has a canted front sight post. I also punched the sight base pins to try and fix that little issue. So the pins are out, but can't get it off due to the flash hider. I also know that the nut has multiple teeth and you could lose a few, but this is a new upper I bought complete and it has a few issues. If they refuse to fix it, I guess I'll be on a quest to get my story out. I work in LE and work for a large agency, plus I have an account on a fairly large AR related gun board. It could get ugly. |
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Replacing a barrel nut that you bent the spines for free is asking way too much.
When you had problems out the gate removing/loosing the barrel nut, a phone call then should have been made to them, and chances are they would have requested that you send the upper back in so they could at least remove the barrel. Really, most companies sell completed units as a whole, and these as a whole are warrantied. Is some causes, the moment that you start wrenching on the rifle, the warranty is voided (unless there was a defective part to begin with that needs to be replaced). Tightly installed barrel nuts are not out of the norm to be installed in such a fashion that they are hard to remove; It's all part of the assembly sold as a whole and if service if required, then they prefer the assembly be send back to have such done in a manner that will not void there warranty. Regarding the 14.5" barrel with permanent longer FS installed, this is the norm as well since if a standard length FS was just spun/threaded on in a fashion that you could easily remove, then the shorter than 16" barrel length would required a SBR stamp for use on a civilian rifle. Some are blinded pinned, some press fit, while other silver solder or brazed on. Bottom line here, you are at fault for the barrel nut damage (read will need to pay to have it fixed), and a smear campaign for your own shortcoming at someone else's expense will not be tolerated here. |
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Forget using a rubber mallet. When something is stuck, I use a metal hammer. I used to do the rubber mallet thinking it would be better for my wrench, but it softens the impact. Much like an impact wrench, you need a quick sudden jolt to un-stick some things.
The barrel nut on my RRA was on super tight. I bent a few teeth off using the rubber mallet idea. switch to a BOH (big old hammer) and on the 1st hit, the nut came off. |
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No hammers!!!!!!!
Break out the torque wrench to use as a extension, set it to 80 ft lbs, and try to remove the barrel nut with a full toothed tool. If the torque wrench clicks before the nut breaks free, Stop!!!!!!! Torque past this point is going to warp the upper receiver, and other methods such as heat, freezing, or even pen oil should be used to prevent damage to any of the parts. |
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This +100!!
The upper receiver is alluminum. Even if you're using a barrel vice, (you are aren't you?), you can still warp or damage the upper receiver by applying too much torque. The threads may have corroded, or there may be no lubrication in there. +1 for PB Blaster. It's amazing stuff and it loosens just about anything. Be very very carefull with heat. Alluminum heats faster than steel so while you're applying heat to the barrel nut, it's transfering heat to the upper receiver. Don't over do it any you'll be fine. Quoted:
No hammers!!!!!!! Break out the torque wrench to use as a extension, set it to 80 ft lbs, and try to remove the barrel nut with a full toothed tool. If the torque wrench clicks before the nut breaks free, Stop!!!!!!! Torque past this point is going to warp the upper receiver, and other methods such as heat, freezing, or even pen oil should be used to prevent damage to any of the parts. |
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