Warning

 

Close
Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Cancel Confirm
AR15.COM
AR Sponsor
2/10/2009 2:42:10 PM EDT
I am building my first AR right now and am just waiting on the DPMS parts kit.  It is killing me.  Anyways, I just received my Gen 2 car stock from Bravo Company (Link )  and it has a problem.
The adjustment latch is loose when locked into position.  Should I send it back or is this an easy fix?  Any help would be appreciated.  

This is where it is locked into position on the tube.
http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/8616/hpim1287dp3.jpg



This is it between positions.
http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/2760/hpim1289tj4.jpg

2/10/2009 3:55:47 PM EDT
[#1]
Pull the latch straight down (not canted to one side), and slide the entire butt stock off the back of the receiver extension.

Drive the cross pin out out of the round nu under the levert.

Reach into the butt stock and hold the inside of the detent and work the nut back and forth to make sure that it's loose on the detent threads.

Put the butt stock back on and lock it into one of the positions.
Now screw the round nut until it tight against the lever, then check the rest of the positions too see which is the deepest, and adjust tight to it.
Note: you don't want the nut more than about 1/2 more threaded tighter or you will end up with the lever detent jumping out of the detent hole in the receiver extension under recoil.

Now remove the stock and turn the nut just the needed rotation more until you can either align the hole with the detent slot, or if the there is not a hole but just a hole in the detent threads that no longer line up, take the nut 1/2 more turn that when it was flush with the lever, and loctite the nut into place/ or you can drill a new hole in the detent threads to use the cross pin if desired..
2/11/2009 4:38:01 PM EDT
[#2]
Thank you very much your fast reply.  However, i have not been able to drive the cross pin out.  Do you have a preferred method that works?  How do you stabilize  the nut and keep it from spinning while you attempt to drive it out.  The rest of it makes sense and should not be a problem.  Thanks again!
2/11/2009 10:47:56 PM EDT
[#3]
Back it up with a V shaped urethane smithing block, or about anything else that will hold it sold, keep if from spinning, will not mar the surface, and has a hole in it for the pin to go threw as it being driven down.
2/12/2009 10:18:48 AM EDT
[#4]
I have done the method Dano mentions above many times to get tight a fit.  I always hold the latch nut in a padded vise while tapping out the roll pin.  One time while out of town and not near my vise, I used a pair of vise grips to hold it, but it marred the nut.  Still, worked fine.  You need to make sure you have the nut on a non-bouncing, hard surface however you end up doing it.  Whacking on a pin on carpet or on a bouncing wooden table will only result in a flared-out end on the pin and broken punches.
2/18/2009 12:59:36 PM EDT
[#5]
After a bit of work, it finally went after some harder than expected hitting.  Roll pin was almost a loss, but was recoverable.  They really had that in there.  Thanks for the help!
AR Sponsor