Warning

 

Close
Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Cancel Confirm
AR15.COM
AR Sponsor
6/15/2008 12:35:33 AM EDT
I took my ar I built to the range for the first time today.  It seems that after I would fire a shot it would load a new round but either not cock the hammer or the bolt would not close all the way.  The trigger would not pull.  When I would pull the bolt back a little and let it go it would then work.  Working the bolt a few times seemed to fix the problem and it actually started working properly.  I ran into it the problem again but after a while it started to function fine.  Pressing the forward assist seemed to also help it and that is what led me to believe it was the bolt.  Other times it was necessary to pull the charging handle and releasing it but only like 1 inch. What could be the cause of this?

Thanks in advance.
6/15/2008 5:31:36 AM EDT
[#1]
Insufficient lubrication perhaps?
6/15/2008 5:36:30 AM EDT
[#2]
I agree with Quib, But ya didnt say what kinda ammo you were using if it was reloads they may not be sized right.
6/15/2008 10:00:23 AM EDT
[#3]
I was using remington PMC bronze 55 gr fmj,Blackhills 60gr spt,and remington umc 55gr mc.  Last night I cleaned it and lubed up the bolt pretty good.  The weird thing about it my other ar, a carbine was pretty much DRY when I pulled the BC/bolt out and still runs fine.  The one that is having this issue is a J and T upper kit built on an ADS lower.

Thanks for the replies guys!
6/15/2008 4:11:20 PM EDT
[#4]
Disco spring installed, with the large coil side down into the back slot of the trigger???
6/15/2008 4:16:43 PM EDT
[#5]
I believe it was put in properly.  Does it fit in pretty tight when you put in the large coil down?  Do you think the disconnector is not catching? See it seems to be working properly now and I can't get it to do it again with it empty.  I tried different ammo and different mags when I was at the range.  Maybe something in the dissconector was causing it to stick.  I guess I am just going to have to open her up and see if it is in right.
6/15/2008 4:22:22 PM EDT
[#6]
Pull the FCG and check for a piece of blown primer hiding under the trigger (picking under it will not do it, you have to pull the trigger to make sure).

Before you put everything back in, make sure to lube all the FCG parts with CLP, plus this will give you a chance to confirm that you installed the disco spring large coil side downward.
6/15/2008 4:34:39 PM EDT
[#7]
any tips to get a stuck safety detent out?  I don't what the deal is with these parts. Nevermind, a few whacks with the mallet took care of that.  I am pulling trigger.  Is CLP a dry lube because I dont have that?

Alright trigger pulled detent spring is in properly.  I am thinking the dissc. spring may have been getting hung up or something. Is clp required?  it seems the the disconnector may have been catching the hammer and not releasing it when the trigger is released.  
When I pull the trigger and hold it down, then recock the hammer it holds the hammer.  When I let the trigger go it makes a nice click.(the disconector releasing the hammer I presume) this is proper function, corrct?
6/15/2008 5:22:18 PM EDT
[#8]
BreakfreeCLP is one form of CLP and should be used to lube the upper bearing parts of the rifle for live fire. Simply, it's the cleaner and lube of choice for the rifle, except the bore, which a copper solvent should be used there.

With the FCG parts out, check for production burs that may be causing a problem with the parts binding. These are often found at the trigger pin channels, but could be found at the pin hole for the disco as well.

Lube all the parts (CLP), including the FCG pins before reinstalling the parts.

And yes, that loud click as the hammer is released from the disco at trigger rest is a good thing.
6/15/2008 5:31:28 PM EDT
[#9]
I think it was the disconnector was not releasing the hammer after pulling the trigger.
6/15/2008 5:36:55 PM EDT
[#10]
To remove the safety, you need to pull the pistol grip.
6/15/2008 5:50:01 PM EDT
[#11]
^I already got that far.  The actual detent was getting hung up on something. I have already disassembled and reassembled the trigger group.
6/15/2008 5:54:14 PM EDT
[#12]
Ok, was just checking.    

Some guys think you can skip the grip removal when removing the safety, and simply give the safety a good whack with a punch and hammer.

Would hate to see you compound your problem.  
6/15/2008 6:01:15 PM EDT
[#13]
No sir,  I would not try something like that.  I have always used Outers brand lubricant (from walmart) in my Carbine and never had any function problems with it . Do I need to get clp?  I will get some if I have to.
6/16/2008 12:53:40 PM EDT
[#14]
Hard Thumb pressure on the ejection side of the selector while turning the selector from safe to fire should walk the selector out (pop  the detent out of the track). The detent is stepped in a stepped channel, so the detent will not come shooting up/out the hole when the selector is pulled.

Note: If it doesn't pop out this way, pull the grip since as stated, breaking out a hammer is going to end up with a cracked receiver at the detent channel.
6/16/2008 3:37:32 PM EDT
[#15]
Meh, i dont really mind pulling the grip anyaway. I pulled the grip and the detent would not fall free.  So I just hit the top of the receiver with a mallet.  
6/29/2008 7:23:04 PM EDT
[#16]
I think i figured out the problem.  My J and T parts kit appears to be out of spec or something.   The disconnector has ALOT of play in it.  I can literally move the disconnector side to side.  i compared it to my other carbine which the disconnector fits TIGHT in the trigger.  I am thinking this is the problem.
7/1/2008 11:48:49 AM EDT
[#17]

Quoted:
I think i figured out the problem.  My J and T parts kit appears to be out of spec or something.   The disconnector has ALOT of play in it.  I can literally move the disconnector side to side.  i compared it to my other carbine which the disconnector fits TIGHT in the trigger.  I am thinking this is the problem.


Does your trigger have space for two disconnector springs?  Could be an M16 trigger.
Also, is the back of the trigger wide open, or is the back section closed (as to not allow a longer tailed disconnector)?

7/1/2008 4:53:35 PM EDT
[#18]
height=8
Quoted:
height=8
Quoted:
I think i figured out the problem.  My J and T parts kit appears to be out of spec or something.   The disconnector has ALOT of play in it.  I can literally move the disconnector side to side.  i compared it to my other carbine which the disconnector fits TIGHT in the trigger.  I am thinking this is the problem.


Does your trigger have space for two disconnector springs?  Could be an M16 trigger.
Also, is the back of the trigger wide open, or is the back section closed (as to not allow a longer tailed disconnector)?

Edit: Nevermind it is closed in back.
AR Sponsor