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Posted: 2/2/2008 6:49:37 AM EDT
| I was looking for some input on how to remove the muzzle break from my AR upper. I put it in my armor'er's block today( don't have barrel vise jaws yet ) and my DPMS armorer's wrench on the muzzle break, gave it a few solid whacks with a mallet CCW but it didn't budge. Any ideas on how to remove it that worked for any of you out there? Thanks. |
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You need barrel blocks that attach near the muzzle or have the FSB in vise blocks. There is too much flex between the muzzle and receiver, not to mention its hard on the receiver. You have to remember that brake gets practically welded to the barrel with super-heated carbon. To break the muzzle device loose, you need make your wrench as long as possible, the barrel wrench may not be long enough. It also helps to apply torque in short bursts. Dynamic friction is less than static. |
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If the barrel has a muzzle brake instead of a FS, you can be 99% sure that it was blind pinned. This means that you will need to find the location that the brake/barrel was drilled for the pin, grind the weld off that location and remove the pin before even attempting to spin the brake (read the pin is just going to tear the hell out of the threads if it was threaded to begin with). Also, since the brake most likely installed to the barrel during the ban, it could be that instead of the barrel being threaded, the Brake was just pressed on (read no threads on either the brake or barrel) and again, the retaining pin will need to be removed first, but if the game plan is to install FS afterwards, then barrel would need to be thread first. Lastly, on some barrels that where to have a brake permantly attached, the barrels may have been shorter than 16" to begin with, and removing and installing a spun on FS would turn the rifle into a SBR. Note: The way a barrel is measured is that the bolt is locked home, then a rod is inserted down the bore until it touches the face of the bolt. Items that are no permanently BATF method approved attached to the barrel are not considered part of this length/the barrel (read a FS that is only threaded on would not be a permanent part of the barrel and the measurement would be from the bolt face to end of muzzle only. |
| Update: Thanks for the replies and suggestions. I finally got it off. It took a vise with soft jaws, two clamps to hold the soft jaws in place, cheater bar to crank the vise down tight, a DPMS barrel wrench, and a big hammer. Two solid whacks loosened it. I guess there is some truth to bigger is better...in this case the hammer. |
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