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1/4/2008 9:58:56 AM EDT
_____I recently had my Vulcan Arms AR-15 trigger replaced with a two stage trigger.  Now I have major issues with the bolt binding, causing the bolt to slow so much that it does not have enough energy to slide forward with a new round from the magazine.  Taking it apart I can see and feel where the issue is at.

    _____The new hammer has a different shape.  The stock one was square with a rounded radiused corner where the bottom of the bolt rode on top.  The new one is squared off and at an acute angle.  When assembled, the bolt binds during the last 1 inch of travel.  The resistance is so great that the bolt will hang up and stay back if done slowly.

    _____When disassembled, I ride the bolt over the hammer back and I can feel the binding inside the stock tube as the bolt is pressed up by the hammer.  The bolt becomes misaligned and binds on the inside of the tube.

    _____I don't know why this is like this.  RRA - Trigger Rock River 2 Stage Trigger

    _____Please provide suggestions/solutions.  Other than replacing it, the only solution I can come up with would be to radius the hammer to match the stock one, since that does not bind.  I am sure that this idea would be discouraged on this forum with  ferocity similar to my wife when I make sexual advances.
1/4/2008 11:47:09 AM EDT
[#1]
Actually, given the brand of the rifle, having problem with it is not a surprise.....

The two areas you can attack is either the top of the firing pin contact pad (rounding it as you stated), or just the back tab of the hammer (where the hammer sears are located, and the point that the hammer is wedging/binding up against the trigger when the carrier passes over it.


Between the two point, the back tab of the hammer would be the safer bet since if you did lower/round the top section of the firing pin contact pad down too much, the hammer may not be lowered far enough to be correctly caught by the disco at cycle.
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