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Posted: 11/18/2005 1:11:12 AM EDT
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Not really, I tend to shove the # 60 O-rings into everything that I touch that only has a standard extractor spring. Thought is that the extra tension of the extractor will either allow the rifle to break in (read allow the chamber to self polish out if the rifle is new), or if the operator take that rifle over the edge in regards to forgetting to lube/clean the rifle when the CLP has burnt off/chamber fouled out, the added spring tension will assist in allowing the extractor to tear the pressure/foul spent case off the sticky chamber walls with loosing grip of the rim. The one area that you really need to double think is adding an O ring to an already extra strength extractor spring, such as the Wolf unit. With the extractor already having plenty of tension, the added tension has a tendency to just put the spring pressure over the top, which dents the softer type case rims inwards on loading (towards the necks) and since the extractor needs to slip around on the rim as the action unlock, this inward dent can cause some problems. Note: This rim inward denting really rears it ugly head when you go to reload the round since the case just refuses to lock/slide into the shell holder (read progressive press, since if by hand, you can just rotate the case to miss the dent in the holder). And, to point out, I have yet to snap an extractor (yes we are talking about a shite load of steel cased rounds). Granted that I have worn the claws off more than a few units (nothing lasts forever), an extractor that snaps was just made wrong from the start (heat treated/ formed incorrectly). |
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Knock on wood, I have yet to snap an extractor, and I am a savage when it comes to gun care/ driving the rifles into the ground. My guess is since these work rifles may be maintained/serviced by the same armor, chances are he got a bad batch of extractors (read heat treated incorrectly), or the real problem is the chamber is just way too tight/rough/gas port too large on this weapon and these may be the problems in them selves. As I have stated, the O-ring is a band-aid at best to allow the rifle to work out it's own problems when new (rough/tight chamber), and the O-ring should not be needed after a few hundred rounds. If you get to the point that your at the 1K break in mark and the freshly cleaned/lube rifle will still not run without the O ring, it time to find a new barrel*. *Chamber is too rough with milling marks/groves, headspace is wrong, or the gas port is too large. On chrome lined barrel, you just screwed every which way since none of these problems are correctable in a simple manner. Also, since I threw it out there in a post above, I do install O rings on my own rigs. It's not to make them run from the start, it's to keep them running when the rifle it taken well past the adverse/”making them scream uncle” mark.  Added since I get onto tangents every once in a while, I can take a stock Real “Colt” M-4, install a standard extractor spring and the rifle runs fine. Where the added tension of the Black maker/ stronger spring pays off is when the rifle is beyond hot, and the standard spring begins to loose a little tension from the heat (read C mag dumping time, and to the point that you do not grab the hand guard without gloves). The difference between the Colt M-4 and the knock off barrels is the chamber sideway dimensions, which Colt/ the military figured out a long time ago. Combat isn’t a match shoot; it’s a get the rounds down range at better than 4 MOA, with the chamber loose enough to allow it to run when the combat get beyond frightening, with taken a time out to clean the weapon/barrel is not an option. Problem is Joe civilian gets a barrel that shoots 4 MOA and he looses his mind since it won’t print like his Bolt-action varmint rifle (right up there with the High speed/Low drag crap I see piled on rifles that would never last a single day in country where you have to hump into it, and not be chauffeured to the action with the base camp a ten minute stroll back if you forgot where you parked, some one steals the truck. 
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| So basically, unless Im having problems with FTE with the new rifle there is no reason to install an o-ring. In other words, dont put one in unless I need it? Putting one in a rifle that is operation fine may put extra stresshinking.gif on the extractor? |
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if the FtEx/Ej are caused by otherwise correctable problems (too light of buffer, rough/undersized chamber) then bumping up the Ex tension will solve the FtEx but will increase wear on the extractor. There is tacked thread at the top of this forum (To the Cadre) that covers this. If the rifle functions fine then adding an O ring only assures function. |
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