AR Sponsor
Posted: 11/2/2016 11:23:52 AM EDT
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I've lurked around these boards for a while, reading alot here but never really posting anything. There has always been some awesome info.
So I'm in the process of building a new rifle to replace my original build. The current rifle I'm using is a good, reliable rifle, but I'm just finding there are so many better things out there, that I decided to start with a whole new build. I recently was afflicted with this horrible disease known as 3gun, and my only hope is to, of course, build a new rifle :-D Anyways, my current build is a pretty generic AR (anderson lower, magpul moe stock, moe mid length rail) and has been reliable. I am going to be replacing it with the new build since I can't really afford (or justify) having both around the house really, especially since the wife already has her own. But the rifle will be filling two main roles, as it is going to be my primary competition gun, as well as the house's primary defense rifle. That will have to include defending the animals at my house (like picking off coyotes at pretty much whatever range i see them at). I've also decided that once I've acquired all of the parts, I'm going to get the main parts cerakoted. I've got a little bit of pitting on my current rifle even though I kept it clean / oiled religiously. I'm hoping that is going to help. So this being a competition gun / defense gun, I picked up an ALG advanced combat trigger for it. Now the real question I'm having a hard time answering is, would it be worth it to get the internals coated, or is that pretty much pointless? My concern being that cerakoting would change the finish / dimensions (slightly) of the seer and hammer, and thus affect the engagement. Am I going to wind up losing some of the benefit of the upgraded trigger? |
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be mindful of the comp. I have an 18" JP with their comp on it for competition. The traits that make it accurate and great for competition shooting (heavy barrel with a comp) make it a shitty HD/hunting rifle. If I fired inside without plugs I would be deaf forever. My vote would be either get a comp you can remove or just build a second upper.
also don't coat the internals. Just keep them clean as needed. |
| Ya, the comp is the only part that I'm still going back and forth on. I'm really seriously considering getting a suppressor for it (really like the looks of the Griffin Optimus since I can use it on multiple firearms). If I do that, then I'll probably go with one of the griffin taper mount comps for the rifle. I've also been considering adding a blast shield as well for it till I get a suppressor. |
Most people around here will encourage you to build new, because they suffer the builders' addictions. I have to ask though: If you're not planning to keep the "older" rifle, why not just use it as the base for your "new" one? Start with swapping the trigger for the one you just got, and see how much that improves things. You might be surprised how much that one part can do.  Then you can do barrel and handguard (since they are both removed by the same process), if necessary.
The only part that you can honestly protect with cerakote, is the outside of the barrel. Any other parts you paint are just decorative coating, since aluminum and polymer don't corrode the same way as steel. |
| Coat the receiver but never the internals. If you do the upper look into micro slick, I hear good things about using that on the inside of the receiver. For HD/competition look into a BCM comp or a surefire war comp. I like the war comp on my friend's dad lwrc 556 and his scar 762. Kept the muzzle flat reduced some recoil, not as much as my socom brakes but it helped some and no flash. Group and ranger regiment started putting war comps on their guns. |
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Budget is a concern, but mostly as a "I'm going to have to buy one piece at a time" type deal. I am not able to afford $500 for matched upper/lower billet, that kind of thing. Its still going to end up a roughly $2k rifle, but that is including some new tools I wanted to pick up to help out and getting the rifle coated.
One thing I'm really looking for is durability. My current rifle, I must have problems with humidity where I live, cause even keeping the rifle cleaned all the time, I've already got some pitting on it. And I would really need to change out alot of the parts, kind of what started this was I wanted to free float the barrel, then decided i wanted a new optic, then realized that my buttstock (base magpul MOE) doesn't really lock and has a bit of wobble in it and decided to replace that, then ended up with a spikes tactical lower for free, i decided to build out a whole new rifle...lol And this time I decided to do it well. My current rifle was my first ever build, and I had to, at the time, do it as cheap as possible. |
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Another thing that I'm looking for is the ability to reach out farther. Currently, I feel effective with my current rifle out to about 150 yards or so. After that, I can watch the groups really start to open up alot. Shot a friend of mine's rifle who had alot of similar upgrades to what I'm looking at, and watched the groups really tighten back up. Where I live, we have pretty fair problems with coyotes, and now that I have animals, I need to be able to reach out on a moments notice and "get rid of" those dang animals.
I'm definitely getting the controls coated, both mine and my wife's rifle show pitting on the controls, and definitely getting the barrel and gas block coated. The rail I'm getting will probably also get coated, but mostly cause I understand that it scratches fairly easily, and I want it to match color (yes, I just got into the looks for a minute...lol). Now that you mention it, I may not get the upper or lower coated. Your right, it may not be necessary. |
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