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Posted: 10/4/2016 2:53:14 PM EDT
| Any suggestions? I am trying to get the right tool to do the job. :-) Changing handguard and flash hider. |
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That depends, what's the job? This. What they said ^^ Essentially, if you want to work on the barrel (pinned sights, gas blocks, muzzle devices, etc) use a tool that stabilizes the barrel such as a barrel vise block or reaction rod.. If you want to mount a barrel use something that stabilizes the receiver such as a receiver vise block or BEV Block. |
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I would advise against using anything that anchors your barrel extension if you plan on torquing anything on the barrel (i.e. a muzzle device). You risk changing the extension's torque value. That would affect your barrel in 2 ways. One, it can clock your barrel differently, so the gas port no longer lines up, which will be even worse if you have an FSB. Two, your head space and the extensions torque value are directly related. When one changes, so does the other. Lastly, worse case scenario, you could completely break the extension loose and then you will have turned your barrel into a paper weight.
For hand guard and rails, its not an issue. -Tony @ BA |
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I would recommend barrel blocks for flash hider work. Quoted:
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That depends, what's the job? Changing handguard and flash hider. I would recommend barrel blocks for flash hider work. Looking at my gun, to change the handguard, I'd have to remove the flash hider, gas block and the barrel nut. Do I'd need a barrel block and a Bev Block/Reaction Rod? |
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Looking at my gun, to change the handguard, I'd have to remove the flash hider, gas block and the barrel nut. Do I'd need a barrel block and a Bev Block/Reaction Rod? Quoted:
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That depends, what's the job? Changing handguard and flash hider. I would recommend barrel blocks for flash hider work. Looking at my gun, to change the handguard, I'd have to remove the flash hider, gas block and the barrel nut. Do I'd need a barrel block and a Bev Block/Reaction Rod? Barrel blocks for flash hider work and receiver blocks for barrel nut removal/install. |
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Which receiver block do you recommend? Quoted:
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I have changed out a lot of handguards and flash hider's and never used the bev block of the reaction rod, I don't put anything in contact with my barrel extensions, I always use receiver and barrel blocks. Which receiver block do you recommend? I just use the standard plastic receiver block that I tighten down in my vise, my barrel blocks, I made myself out of a 4x4 that I drilled and cut in half. |
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Barrel blocks. > http://www.primaryarms.com/672286/p/672286/
Clamshell upper receiver vise blocks. > http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/210021/wheeler-engineering-delta-series-upper-receiver-vise-block-clamp-ar-15 |
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Barrel blocks. > http://www.primaryarms.com/672286/p/672286/ Clamshell upper receiver vise blocks. > http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/210021/wheeler-engineering-delta-series-upper-receiver-vise-block-clamp-ar-15 Yup, that is the same upper blocks that I have, my other message was about my lower block. |
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Barrel blocks. > http://www.primaryarms.com/672286/p/672286/ Clamshell upper receiver vise blocks. > http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/210021/wheeler-engineering-delta-series-upper-receiver-vise-block-clamp-ar-15 THIS. |
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Quoted: I would advise against using anything that anchors your barrel extension if you plan on torquing anything on the barrel (i.e. a muzzle device). You risk changing the extension's torque value. That would affect your barrel in 2 ways. One, it can clock your barrel differently, so the gas port no longer lines up, which will be even worse if you have an FSB. Two, your head space and the extensions torque value are directly related. When one changes, so does the other. Lastly, worse case scenario, you could completely break the extension loose and then you will have turned your barrel into a paper weight. For hand guard and rails, its not an issue. -Tony @ BA |
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If it's just a standard forged upper, I'd use the clamshell style block that Brownell's sells. I have one and its great. The only thing you can't work on with the receiver in it is the dust cover. Everything else is in the open. My clamshell allowed for the dust cover to be installed. |
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The Bevblock seems pretty well engineered to me. It also locks up through the front pivot lug and at the rear by sliding the bolt carrier (bolt removed) into the receiver from the rear. An o-ringed extension slides into the carrier where the bolt fits. There is also a fairly stout nub on top that fits into the slot for the charging handle.
I also have a clamshell and blocks for the barrel. I don't use the clamshell anymore because you can work on the entire upper in the Bevblock. With the multiple points of lock-up, I don't think the barrel blocks are even necessary for most muzzle devices with the torque spec for those being pretty low in most cases. It also saves having to remove the handguard to remove the muzzle device if your handguard is almost as long as the barrel (as is usually the case on an SBR and appears to be in vogue now for longer barrels). I haven't had any problems solely using the Bevblock on multiple builds over the last year, and it has been very handy going back and working on some older builds I have. |
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I think there's a lot of misinformation on this thread.
I use the reaction rod for most of everything. It takes the strain away form the receiver and lessons the chance of shearing the index pin. the extension is extremely strong with high tensile strength, there's literally no way you're going to hurt a barrel extension with a reaction rod. This goes for barrel nut torquong, flash hider installs, etc. There are tomes however I do need to use an upper clamshell block, like when I install a piston system or gas tube. But those are low or no torque installations. The Bev block looks nice, but I've seen some reviews that say the tolerance/fit is mediocre. Don't use clamshell for high torquing. It puts way too much strain on a receiver. |
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Quoted: I think there's a lot of misinformation on this thread. I use the reaction rod for most of everything. It takes the strain away form the receiver and lessons the chance of shearing the index pin. the extension is extremely strong with high tensile strength, there's literally no way you're going to hurt a barrel extension with a reaction rod. This goes for barrel nut torquong, flash hider installs, etc. There are tomes however I do need to use an upper clamshell block, like when I install a piston system or gas tube. But those are low or no torque installations. The Bev block looks nice, but I've seen some reviews that say the tolerance/fit is mediocre. Don't use clamshell for high torquing. It puts way too much strain on a receiver. |
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hmm. I completely disagree. Quoted:
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I think there's a lot of misinformation on this thread. I use the reaction rod for most of everything. It takes the strain away form the receiver and lessons the chance of shearing the index pin. the extension is extremely strong with high tensile strength, there's literally no way you're going to hurt a barrel extension with a reaction rod. This goes for barrel nut torquong, flash hider installs, etc. There are tomes however I do need to use an upper clamshell block, like when I install a piston system or gas tube. But those are low or no torque installations. The Bev block looks nice, but I've seen some reviews that say the tolerance/fit is mediocre. Don't use clamshell for high torquing. It puts way too much strain on a receiver. So do I. Now there's even more misinformation in this thread. I've put up to 80ft/lbs of torque on a barrel nut using a clamshell type vise block with no problems at all. There have been several accounts of damaged rifles caused by using a reaction rod or similar type of tool. At least one of the manufacturers here reccomends against using the reaction rod. I prefer the clamshell type blocks or a vise block like the No-Mar from Plastix Revolution. |
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So do I. Now there's even more misinformation in this thread. I've put up to 80ft/lbs of torque on a barrel nut using a clamshell type vise block with no problems at all. There have been several accounts of damaged rifles caused by using a reaction rod or similar type of tool. At least one of the manufacturers here reccomends against using the reaction rod. I prefer the clamshell type blocks or a vise block like the No-Mar from Plastix Revolution. Quoted:
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I think there's a lot of misinformation on this thread. I use the reaction rod for most of everything. It takes the strain away form the receiver and lessons the chance of shearing the index pin. the extension is extremely strong with high tensile strength, there's literally no way you're going to hurt a barrel extension with a reaction rod. This goes for barrel nut torquong, flash hider installs, etc. There are tomes however I do need to use an upper clamshell block, like when I install a piston system or gas tube. But those are low or no torque installations. The Bev block looks nice, but I've seen some reviews that say the tolerance/fit is mediocre. Don't use clamshell for high torquing. It puts way too much strain on a receiver. So do I. Now there's even more misinformation in this thread. I've put up to 80ft/lbs of torque on a barrel nut using a clamshell type vise block with no problems at all. There have been several accounts of damaged rifles caused by using a reaction rod or similar type of tool. At least one of the manufacturers here reccomends against using the reaction rod. I prefer the clamshell type blocks or a vise block like the No-Mar from Plastix Revolution. I disagree as well. The Reaction Rod has had people shearing index pins quite a lot around here. This in not something that is seen much with clamshell vise blocks. ADCO and Ken Elmore of Specialized Armament recommend against the use of the Reaction Rod. |
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I think there's a lot of misinformation on this thread. I use the reaction rod for most of everything. It takes the strain away form the receiver and lessons the chance of shearing the index pin. the extension is extremely strong with high tensile strength, there's literally no way you're going to hurt a barrel extension with a reaction rod. This goes for barrel nut torquong, flash hider installs, etc. There are tomes however I do need to use an upper clamshell block, like when I install a piston system or gas tube. But those are low or no torque installations. The Bev block looks nice, but I've seen some reviews that say the tolerance/fit is mediocre. Don't use clamshell for high torquing. It puts way too much strain on a receiver. You are 100% wrong. |
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I disagree as well. The Reaction Rod has had people shearing index pins quite a lot around here. This in not something that is seen much with clamshell vise blocks. ADCO and Ken Elmore of Specialized Armament recommend against the use of the Reaction Rod. Quoted:
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I think there's a lot of misinformation on this thread. I use the reaction rod for most of everything. It takes the strain away form the receiver and lessons the chance of shearing the index pin. the extension is extremely strong with high tensile strength, there's literally no way you're going to hurt a barrel extension with a reaction rod. This goes for barrel nut torquong, flash hider installs, etc. There are tomes however I do need to use an upper clamshell block, like when I install a piston system or gas tube. But those are low or no torque installations. The Bev block looks nice, but I've seen some reviews that say the tolerance/fit is mediocre. Don't use clamshell for high torquing. It puts way too much strain on a receiver. So do I. Now there's even more misinformation in this thread. I've put up to 80ft/lbs of torque on a barrel nut using a clamshell type vise block with no problems at all. There have been several accounts of damaged rifles caused by using a reaction rod or similar type of tool. At least one of the manufacturers here reccomends against using the reaction rod. I prefer the clamshell type blocks or a vise block like the No-Mar from Plastix Revolution. I disagree as well. The Reaction Rod has had people shearing index pins quite a lot around here. This in not something that is seen much with clamshell vise blocks. ADCO and Ken Elmore of Specialized Armament recommend against the use of the Reaction Rod. I disagree as well. Too many reports of sheared index pins while installing barrel nuts using the reaction rod. If a reaction rod is used to install a barrel nut, the force from tightening the barrel nut is transferred into the receiver, which is not stabilized with a reaction rod. If the receiver moves against the stabilized barrel extension, the index pin is the weak point and can potentially shear. Generally, if you want to work on the barrel, use something that stabilizes the barrel. A reaction rod is OK for this since the barrel extension is torqued on to the barrel with in the range of 150 ft pounds , IIRC. If you want to torque against the receiver, use something that stabilizes the receiver very well. I use a clamshell but am looking at the bev block since it stabilizes both receiver and barrel. I have never sheared an index pin but have twisted an upper using something like this. It works fine for light work but does not support the upper adequately for really torquing on or off. Part of the challenge in learning about this stuff is that we all get away with things with the tools we have, until we don't, at which point we have to problem solve what went wrong. |
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I don't understand this constant debate, except that these "accessory" companies are now trying to push a tool to increase their total sales. Snake oil will not cure your ails.
The fundamentals of mechanics are really simple: two pieces have threads on them - those are the two pieces you have to manipulate. If you're tightening a nut onto a bolt, do you try to hold the washers in vice grips? No! You put a wrench on the nut, and a ratchet/socket on the bolt head. Why do we try to overcomplicate this just because some marketing department has convinced us of the thought process that more expensive must work better? We're essentially convinced that a more expensive washer strap-holder tool that costs 3x as much will somehow hold it better. Installing a barrel/forearm/delta ring? Those threads are on the receiver and the barrel nut. Anchor the receiver, and put your tool on the barrel nut. Installing a muzzle device? The threads are between the barrel and that device. Anchor the barrel (not the extension) and put your tool on the muzzle device. Both of these can be done with simple blocks of scrap wood for the hobby builder. A professional who assembles in batches for sale would find value in vice blocks but us hobbyists don't need them. |
I am impressed... It looks like the general consensus on the Reaction Rod has changed around here. 
It wasn't long ago when the Reaction Rod was the best barreling tool ever made. 
I don't really like the idea of the Magpul BEV Block either since it only holds the upper at the front pivot pin lug and I've heard that it's not a very tight fit at that contact point. Everyone here should check out this thread about the Windham Weaponry barreling jig. > Link. This tool is going to be made by 2UniqueLLC and once I finally have one in my possession I will be combining it in use with my clamshell upper receiver vise blocks to have the ultimate in holding power. 
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I am impressed... It looks like the general consensus on the Reaction Rod has changed around here.
It wasn't long ago when the Reaction Rod was the best barreling tool ever made.
I don't really like the idea of the Magpul BEV Block either since it only holds the upper at the front pivot pin lug and I've heard that it's not a very tight fit at that contact point. Everyone here should check out this thread about the Windham Weaponry barreling jig. > Link. This tool is going to be made by 2UniqueLLC and once I finally have one in my possession I will be combining it in use with my clamshell upper receiver vise blocks to have the ultimate in holding power. That looks awesome. |
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That looks awesome. Quoted:
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I am impressed... It looks like the general consensus on the Reaction Rod has changed around here.
It wasn't long ago when the Reaction Rod was the best barreling tool ever made.
I don't really like the idea of the Magpul BEV Block either since it only holds the upper at the front pivot pin lug and I've heard that it's not a very tight fit at that contact point. Everyone here should check out this thread about the Windham Weaponry barreling jig. > Link. This tool is going to be made by 2UniqueLLC and once I finally have one in my possession I will be combining it in use with my clamshell upper receiver vise blocks to have the ultimate in holding power. That looks awesome. Well, yes... I can't disagree with you on that. I have been waiting on it to become available for quite some time now. 
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| If the barrel extension is supposed to be torqued in the neighborhood of 150 ft-lbs then how can using a Reaction Rod to torque at barrel nut to between 40-80 ft-lbs possibly break it loose? Unless the extension wasn't properly torqued to begin with there by exposing a manufacturing defect that wouldn't have been otherwise visible unless headspace failed. |
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If the barrel extension is supposed to be torqued in the neighborhood of 150 ft-lbs then how can using a Reaction Rod to torque at barrel nut to between 40-80 ft-lbs possibly break it loose? Unless the extension wasn't properly torqued to begin with there by exposing a manufacturing defect that wouldn't have been otherwise visible unless headspace failed. You can't loosen a barrel extension with a Reaction Rod when installing or removing a barrel nut but you can shear the indexing pin and possibly damage the upper by doing so. It is possible to loosen a barrel extension with a Reaction Rod when removing a muzzle devise, it is also possible to tighten the barrel extension with a Reaction Rod by installing a muzzle devise. |
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You can't loosen a barrel extension with a Reaction Rod when installing or removing a barrel nut but you can shear the indexing pin and possibly damage the upper by doing so. It is possible to loosen a barrel extension with a Reaction Rod when removing a muzzle devise, it is also possible to tighten the barrel extension with a Reaction Rod by installing a muzzle devise. Quoted:
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If the barrel extension is supposed to be torqued in the neighborhood of 150 ft-lbs then how can using a Reaction Rod to torque at barrel nut to between 40-80 ft-lbs possibly break it loose? Unless the extension wasn't properly torqued to begin with there by exposing a manufacturing defect that wouldn't have been otherwise visible unless headspace failed. You can't loosen a barrel extension with a Reaction Rod when installing or removing a barrel nut but you can shear the indexing pin and possibly damage the upper by doing so. It is possible to loosen a barrel extension with a Reaction Rod when removing a muzzle devise, it is also possible to tighten the barrel extension with a Reaction Rod by installing a muzzle devise. How is that physically possible? |
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How is that physically possible? Quoted:
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If the barrel extension is supposed to be torqued in the neighborhood of 150 ft-lbs then how can using a Reaction Rod to torque at barrel nut to between 40-80 ft-lbs possibly break it loose? Unless the extension wasn't properly torqued to begin with there by exposing a manufacturing defect that wouldn't have been otherwise visible unless headspace failed. You can't loosen a barrel extension with a Reaction Rod when installing or removing a barrel nut but you can shear the indexing pin and possibly damage the upper by doing so. It is possible to loosen a barrel extension with a Reaction Rod when removing a muzzle devise, it is also possible to tighten the barrel extension with a Reaction Rod by installing a muzzle devise. How is that physically possible? Loosening or tightening the barrel extension when removing or installing a muzzle devise is possible if the barrel extension was not torqued to spec. If the barrel extension was torqued to spec you should be okay but it's best to just clamp the barrel (with barrel blocks) as close as you can to the work being done. |
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Loosening or tightening the barrel extension when removing or installing a muzzle devise is possible if the barrel extension was not torqued to spec. Quoted:
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If the barrel extension is supposed to be torqued in the neighborhood of 150 ft-lbs then how can using a Reaction Rod to torque at barrel nut to between 40-80 ft-lbs possibly break it loose? Unless the extension wasn't properly torqued to begin with there by exposing a manufacturing defect that wouldn't have been otherwise visible unless headspace failed. You can't loosen a barrel extension with a Reaction Rod when installing or removing a barrel nut but you can shear the indexing pin and possibly damage the upper by doing so. It is possible to loosen a barrel extension with a Reaction Rod when removing a muzzle devise, it is also possible to tighten the barrel extension with a Reaction Rod by installing a muzzle devise. How is that physically possible? Loosening or tightening the barrel extension when removing or installing a muzzle devise is possible if the barrel extension was not torqued to spec. But that's my point, if the extension is not torqued properly the barrel is not to spec and therefore in one sense or another is detective. So again, how can using the Reaction Rod damage anything if the barrel is properly manufactured? |
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How is that physically possible? Quoted:
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If the barrel extension is supposed to be torqued in the neighborhood of 150 ft-lbs then how can using a Reaction Rod to torque at barrel nut to between 40-80 ft-lbs possibly break it loose? Unless the extension wasn't properly torqued to begin with there by exposing a manufacturing defect that wouldn't have been otherwise visible unless headspace failed. You can't loosen a barrel extension with a Reaction Rod when installing or removing a barrel nut but you can shear the indexing pin and possibly damage the upper by doing so. It is possible to loosen a barrel extension with a Reaction Rod when removing a muzzle devise, it is also possible to tighten the barrel extension with a Reaction Rod by installing a muzzle devise. How is that physically possible? Easily. I was removing a flash hider from a factory installed upper using a reaction rod, and the extension popped right off. This flash hider was slightly overtorqued, but it was probably 30 ft pounds or less, and the extension popped loose. This was probably a barrel that was one of those where they nitrided the barrel and extension together after they were installed, which left the extension not at the proper torque anymore. That isnt the reaction rod's fault - it simply exposed a factory defect. However, when you install or remove muzzle decies and you use a reaction rod, you are torquing against the extension to barrel interface. If the extension is installed properly, this should never be an issue. Where it absolutely would be an issue even on a proeprly manufactured barrel, is if you were removing a muzzle device that had rocksett on it, I have had to hit some pretty high torque values to remove those. My rule of thumb: Installing/removing barrel nuts: clamp on the upper receiver. Installing/removing muzzle devices: clamp on the barrel. Holding an upper and being able to quickly rotate it, such as for working on a gas block: reaction rod. All tools have their place. |
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But that's my point, if the extension is not torqued properly the barrel is not to spec and therefore in one sense or another is detective. So again, how can using the Reaction Rod damage anything if the barrel is properly manufactured? Quoted:
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If the barrel extension is supposed to be torqued in the neighborhood of 150 ft-lbs then how can using a Reaction Rod to torque at barrel nut to between 40-80 ft-lbs possibly break it loose? Unless the extension wasn't properly torqued to begin with there by exposing a manufacturing defect that wouldn't have been otherwise visible unless headspace failed. You can't loosen a barrel extension with a Reaction Rod when installing or removing a barrel nut but you can shear the indexing pin and possibly damage the upper by doing so. It is possible to loosen a barrel extension with a Reaction Rod when removing a muzzle devise, it is also possible to tighten the barrel extension with a Reaction Rod by installing a muzzle devise. How is that physically possible? Loosening or tightening the barrel extension when removing or installing a muzzle devise is possible if the barrel extension was not torqued to spec. But that's my point, if the extension is not torqued properly the barrel is not to spec and therefore in one sense or another is detective. So again, how can using the Reaction Rod damage anything if the barrel is properly manufactured? Some muzzle devices can take higher amounts of torque and you are flirting with disaster. That's how. I work on 40 to 50 uppers a year, you see all kinds of stuff. Especially now in the age of suppressor mounts. |
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I am impressed... It looks like the general consensus on the Reaction Rod has changed around here.
It wasn't long ago when the Reaction Rod was the best barreling tool ever made.
I don't really like the idea of the Magpul BEV Block either since it only holds the upper at the front pivot pin lug and I've heard that it's not a very tight fit at that contact point. Everyone here should check out this thread about the Windham Weaponry barreling jig. > Link. This tool is going to be made by 2UniqueLLC and once I finally have one in my possession I will be combining it in use with my clamshell upper receiver vise blocks to have the ultimate in holding power. Would someone who has used the Windam Weaponry barreling jig tell us how the jig locks up the barrel extension and upper together in the correct relationship in both directions on all barrel and upper combinations? If it doesn't do this, then has it eliminated stress to the index pin? It seems like any slop caused by tolerance stacking would allow the partial shearing of index pins. If there are a plethora of index pins being damaged by the use of the Reaction Rod and other like tools, it would appear that the Windom Weaponry barreling jig would have a similar potential for causing damage to the index pin and or upper receiver. The WW barreling jig doesn't look like a bad option to me but would appear to suffer some the same flaws that are attributed to the use of the Reaction Rod. I am also curious about the use of clamshell blocks and the WW jig in combination. How does that work? |
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Would someone who has used the Windam Weaponry barreling jig tell us how the jig locks up the barrel extension and upper together in the correct relationship in both directions on all barrel and upper combinations? If it doesn't do this, then has it eliminated stress to the index pin? It seems like any slop caused by tolerance stacking would allow the partial shearing of index pins. If there are a plethora of index pins being damaged by the use of the Reaction Rod and other like tools, it would appear that the Windom Weaponry barreling jig would have a similar potential for causing damage to the index pin and or upper receiver. The WW barreling jig doesn't look like a bad option to me but would appear to suffer some the same flaws that are attributed to the use of the Reaction Rod. I am also curious about the use of clamshell blocks and the WW jig in combination. How does that work? Quoted:
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I am impressed... It looks like the general consensus on the Reaction Rod has changed around here.
It wasn't long ago when the Reaction Rod was the best barreling tool ever made.
I don't really like the idea of the Magpul BEV Block either since it only holds the upper at the front pivot pin lug and I've heard that it's not a very tight fit at that contact point. Everyone here should check out this thread about the Windham Weaponry barreling jig. > Link. This tool is going to be made by 2UniqueLLC and once I finally have one in my possession I will be combining it in use with my clamshell upper receiver vise blocks to have the ultimate in holding power. Would someone who has used the Windam Weaponry barreling jig tell us how the jig locks up the barrel extension and upper together in the correct relationship in both directions on all barrel and upper combinations? If it doesn't do this, then has it eliminated stress to the index pin? It seems like any slop caused by tolerance stacking would allow the partial shearing of index pins. If there are a plethora of index pins being damaged by the use of the Reaction Rod and other like tools, it would appear that the Windom Weaponry barreling jig would have a similar potential for causing damage to the index pin and or upper receiver. The WW barreling jig doesn't look like a bad option to me but would appear to suffer some the same flaws that are attributed to the use of the Reaction Rod. I am also curious about the use of clamshell blocks and the WW jig in combination. How does that work? No one that I know of has used the Windham Weaponry barreling jig except the the guys working at Windham Weaponry and I think Patriot Ordnance Factory may be using this jig as well. One of the Windham Weaponry Reps in the thread I linked said that they haven't sheared an index pin with their jigs yet. Unless you are using the Geissele Super Reaction Rod I don't think it's possible to get the upper and the barrel extension to load at the same time (unless by pure luck) but I do not think that there would be enough slop between the jig and the parts to cause an index pin to shear... You might get some deformation of the index pin notch in the upper receiver though. I was always attracted to the speed of use enabled by the Reaction Rod style tools but I just didn't like that they sheared indexing pins, that's why I'm excited by the Windham Weaponry jig. The Geissele Super Reaction Rod works but it's just to slow to use. As far as using a clam shell vise block and the Windham Weaponry jig together it would just be for removing barrel nuts because you never know how much torque it is going to take... Sometimes you get one that is really stuck. Using the jig with with the clamshell vise blocks would support the internal space of the upper receiver and at the same time hold the barrel via the barrel extension from possibly moving during the removal of the barrel nut. |
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I just used my Magpul BEV for the first time last night assembling two uppers. It was very solid, however, I don't like that it requires the use of a bolt carrier to help anchor the upper on the vise block. I had one bolt carrier group that I had to keep disassembling to keep the upper locked, then had to reassemble it to check function of the upper. Yea, a spare BCG would alleviate this, but i didn't have one handy. I'd rather just have a piece included with the BEV that does the job rather than using a bolt carrier. The Magpul wrench, however, is an entirely different story. Loved that thing!
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I just used my Magpul BEV for the first time last night assembling two uppers. It was very solid, however, I don't like that it requires the use of a bolt carrier to help anchor the upper on the vise block. I had one bolt carrier group that I had to keep disassembling to keep the upper locked, then had to reassemble it to check function of the upper. Yea, a spare BCG would alleviate this, but i didn't have one handy. I'd rather just have a piece included with the BEV that does the job rather than using a bolt carrier. The Magpul wrench, however, is an entirely different story. Loved that thing! Well, you would have to have the carrier disassembled to check barrel nut alignment anyway if you happen to be using one of these. > Link. I haven't heard of anyone shearing an index pin yet with the BEV Block. |
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