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Posted: 2/16/2016 8:08:32 PM EDT
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Anyone ever use the Range Tool Jig? It's not horribly priced, just want to know if it's any good.
http://www.rangetool.com/store/80-lowers/80-jig.html Thanks |
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Quoted: Thanks. Have you actually used it? I just wish it had drill bushings. Quoted: Quoted: good jig. great price. Thanks. Have you actually used it? I just wish it had drill bushings. Never used it, but RT has good shit though. I have Modulus Arms one. Its kind of a pain in the ass to use. Im gonna buy this RT unit. |
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Never used it, but RT has good shit though. I have Modulus Arms one. Its kind of a pain in the ass to use. Im gonna buy this RT unit. Quoted:
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good jig. great price. Thanks. Have you actually used it? I just wish it had drill bushings. I have Modulus Arms one. Its kind of a pain in the ass to use. Im gonna buy this RT unit. On the Modulus, do you have the newest HD version with the steel inserts or the original all aluminum design? Thanks Wes |
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Quoted: On the Modulus, do you have the newest HD version with the steel inserts or the original all aluminum design? Thanks Wes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: good jig. great price. Thanks. Have you actually used it? I just wish it had drill bushings. I have Modulus Arms one. Its kind of a pain in the ass to use. Im gonna buy this RT unit. On the Modulus, do you have the newest HD version with the steel inserts or the original all aluminum design? Thanks Wes |
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Quoted: Really? You are making a gun, the amount of screws you have to put in or take out should be very secondary Quoted: Really? You are making a gun, the amount of screws you have to put in or take out should be very secondary !You are clearly not making a gun. You're performing the simple task of milling out 20% more of the lower. it shouldn't take more than about 45 minutes but the way that its configured it takes forever to do it. more like 3 hours. For everybody else contacted me I am NOT selling it |
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Ya, actually based on the BATF rules, you are making a gun as the lower receiver is the part that is a gun and regulated by law. If you take 3 hours to mill one then you are doing something wrong, I can mill them in about an hour. Dave, are you using a mill or a router? I sure can't get one done in an hour with the original Modulus jig and a router. My first one took about 5-6 hours while learning and the next four took about 3 hours each. |
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Dave, are you using a mill or a router? I sure can't get one done in an hour with the original Modulus jig and a router. My first one took about 5-6 hours while learning and the next four took about 3 hours each. Quoted:
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Ya, actually based on the BATF rules, you are making a gun as the lower receiver is the part that is a gun and regulated by law. If you take 3 hours to mill one then you are doing something wrong, I can mill them in about an hour. Dave, are you using a mill or a router? I sure can't get one done in an hour with the original Modulus jig and a router. My first one took about 5-6 hours while learning and the next four took about 3 hours each. I just started using a bench top mill, but I used to do them with a small drill press. I have never tried with a router, I would imagine that could take a bit longer. |
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First edition. But what sucks is there so many screws you have to take apart whenever you want to change it around Quoted:
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good jig. great price. Thanks. Have you actually used it? I just wish it had drill bushings. I have Modulus Arms one. Its kind of a pain in the ass to use. Im gonna buy this RT unit. On the Modulus, do you have the newest HD version with the steel inserts or the original all aluminum design? Thanks Wes They really made that a lot easier on the HD jig the way the drilling and milling plates go in and out from the top. |
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Anyone ever use the Range Tool Jig? It's not horribly priced, just want to know if it's any good. http://www.rangetool.com/store/80-lowers/80-jig.html Thanks It is a drill press based jig. It is less expensive because it isn't anodized, doesn't have drill bushings on either side and it only includes the 2 most basic milling top plates. If you want a really good drill press based jig, the one from Broken Arms is anodized, has hardened drill bushings on the left side and it includes a very complete set of drilling/milling top plates. http://brokenarmory.com/AR15-Lower-Receiver-Jig-Jig.htm It is of course significantly more expensive, but in my opinion probably worth it if you are going to be completing multiple lowers. If you can get by with the plain unanodized jig w/o drill bushings then you could probably go as cheap as the Stealth Arms jigs which is $75 but includes the drill bits and one more top plate for drilling. https://www.stealtharms.net/jig-ar15-kit.html |
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First edition. But what sucks is there so many screws you have to take apart whenever you want to change it around That has been addressed in the new HD version. There are now only two screws for drilling guide and four for the milling template. HD jig |
| If you are going to buy a jig, I suggest finding the jig you want, then pick up your mills and bits from HF, I did buy a jig and tooling kit a few years ago and was disappointed in the tooling kit that was included, the mill bits were 4 flute bits, which I like the 2 flute bits much better and the drill bits were brittle. That said, it has been a few years and I have heard some really great things about the new jigs that have been introduced by Modulus |
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If you are going to buy a jig, I suggest finding the jig you want, then pick up your mills and bits from HF, I did buy a jig and tooling kit a few years ago and was disappointed in the tooling kit that was included, the mill bits were 4 flute bits, which I like the 2 flute bits much better and the drill bits were brittle. That said, it has been a few years and I have heard some really great things about the new jigs that have been introduced by Modulus The bits that came with my Modulus jig have worked fine so far. The 1/4" carbide end mill bit is a 4 flute though so if you don't like that you might not be very happy. |
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The bits that came with my Modulus jig have worked fine so far. The 1/4" carbide end mill bit is a 4 flute though so if you don't like that you might not be very happy. Quoted:
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If you are going to buy a jig, I suggest finding the jig you want, then pick up your mills and bits from HF, I did buy a jig and tooling kit a few years ago and was disappointed in the tooling kit that was included, the mill bits were 4 flute bits, which I like the 2 flute bits much better and the drill bits were brittle. That said, it has been a few years and I have heard some really great things about the new jigs that have been introduced by Modulus The bits that came with my Modulus jig have worked fine so far. The 1/4" carbide end mill bit is a 4 flute though so if you don't like that you might not be very happy. I did say, I have heard good things about the new Modulus jigs and tool kits, I have not tried one of them, remember I did say it has been a few years, right? Now that I have set my new mill up with CNC, I am not going to worry about it to much. |
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I did say, I have heard good things about the new Modulus jigs and tool kits, I have not tried one of them, remember I did say it has been a few years, right? Now that I have set my new mill up with CNC, I am not going to worry about it to much. Quoted:
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If you are going to buy a jig, I suggest finding the jig you want, then pick up your mills and bits from HF, I did buy a jig and tooling kit a few years ago and was disappointed in the tooling kit that was included, the mill bits were 4 flute bits, which I like the 2 flute bits much better and the drill bits were brittle. That said, it has been a few years and I have heard some really great things about the new jigs that have been introduced by Modulus The bits that came with my Modulus jig have worked fine so far. The 1/4" carbide end mill bit is a 4 flute though so if you don't like that you might not be very happy. I did say, I have heard good things about the new Modulus jigs and tool kits, I have not tried one of them, remember I did say it has been a few years, right? Now that I have set my new mill up with CNC, I am not going to worry about it to much. I wasn't trying to bust your 8@11$ or anything, just saying what my experience with the tooling I got from Modulus recently. I agree that some of the jigs and stuff that was out a few years ago or what is offered by some of the budget makers can be a little crude or cheaper grade like Chinese made tools. |
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If you are using a mill or drill press use the jig to locate the holes, and you can use it without damaging even an aluminum jig.
My experience has been un-hardened steel has about the same strength as 7075 aluminum (my milling machine cuts both material with the same effort) only that steel is heavier. So if you want jigs that can protect against hand drilling or wear you want hardened steel inserts. |
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If you are using a mill or drill press use the jig to locate the holes, and you can use it without damaging even an aluminum jig. My experience has been un-hardened steel has about the same strength as 7075 aluminum (my milling machine cuts both material with the same effort) only that steel is heavier. So if you want jigs that can protect against hand drilling or wear you want hardened steel inserts. I put steel inserts in my old jig and it works fine, much better than without. |
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I've heard it's decent quality and was thinking about it at first but the reviews from the two below have me thinking about stepping it up Personally i can't decide between the modulus or the 80% arms easy jig.... Modulus HD would be my choice... very nice jig, solid, sturdy and a lot of convenience improvements compared to their original jig. |
| I'm sure the modulus HD jig is a great jig, but you're looking at a $180.00 price tag. The range tool jig (while not even on the same playing field) is only $65.00. If I was to install some drill jig bushings, I think the Range tool jig is all I would need. For $27.00 and some drilling, I can have the range tool jig fitted with drill bushings. I would use a 9/64" (ID) shouldered bushing for the hammer and trigger pins, which I would just switch out (after drilling) to a 5/32" (ID) bushing for the reamer. The two 3/8" (ID) drill bushings for the selector hole would be a press fit bushing. With layout die on the top of the receiver fire control area, put the top plate on the jig on and scribe out the area needed to be milled. Drill to the proper depth (with the top plate off and following the scribed lines) and reinstall the top plate for the final milling of the pocket. I would be into the jig for a total of $97.00. Let me know what you guys think. |
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Well so long as you only plan on doing forged "mil-spec" lowers you could do that....but if you ever want to do billet or non-standard lowers then the Modulus Jig is the far better option. Aside from the steel side plates and drill guides the Modulus Jig's biggest selling point is that it is a universal jig and can be used with any lower out there. The only type I'm not sure if it'll work with, but someone from Modulus, are the polymer lowers on the market that have additional material added to the top edges of the FCG pocket and buffer tube. |
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I'm sure the modulus HD jig is a great jig, but you're looking at a $180.00 price tag. The range tool jig (while not even on the same playing field) is only $65.00. If I was to install some drill jig bushings, I think the Range tool jig is all I would need. For $27.00 and some drilling, I can have the range tool jig fitted with drill bushings. I would use a 9/64" (ID) shouldered bushing for the hammer and trigger pins, which I would just switch out (after drilling) to a 5/32" (ID) bushing for the reamer. The two 3/8" (ID) drill bushings for the selector hole would be a press fit bushing. With layout die on the top of the receiver fire control area, put the top plate on the jig on and scribe out the area needed to be milled. Drill to the proper depth (with the top plate off and following the scribed lines) and reinstall the top plate for the final milling of the pocket. I would be into the jig for a total of $97.00. Let me know what you guys think. If you have a mini-mill or are planning to use your drill press to do the final milling cleanup after drilling then a jig like the RT one is probably fine. But I would not try to use a trim router to do the milling with a jig like the RT that is not intended for it. I'm not really all that comfortable using my drill press as a makeshift mill either. People do it, and I've seen some decent results from it, but drill presses really aren't intended for taking that kind of lateral loads so I am not sure how good it is for the drill press. |
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Well so long as you only plan on doing forged "mil-spec" lowers you could do that....but if you ever want to do billet or non-standard lowers then the Modulus Jig is the far better option. Aside from the steel side plates and drill guides the Modulus Jig's biggest selling point is that it is a universal jig and can be used with any lower out there. The only type I'm not sure if it'll work with, but someone from Modulus, are the polymer lowers on the market that have additional material added to the top edges of the FCG pocket and buffer tube. I have used the Modulus HD jig to mill out an EP Armory Zombie Green 80% polymer lower without any problems. It is slightly enlarged around the buffer tube area and the rear takedown pin area. I can't say about any other brands. |
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