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8/4/2015 3:32:26 PM EDT
I've put about 250 rounds through my build and have noticed that the pile of spent cases ends up at about a 4-5 o'clock location and short strokes almost every time when shooting cheap steel. This leads me to believe that something is wrong with my buffer/spring. I'm currently running a JP polished buffer spring which is 7% stronger than stock and an H2 buffer with an 18" rifle length barrel. I know the gas port is aligned and I don't think that is the problem. Do yall think going down to an H or standard buffer would correct this? I'd like to keep my JP spring but maybe a standard spring is the answer. Let me know what you think!
8/4/2015 3:41:57 PM EDT
[#1]
Sounds like too much buffer / spring or not enough gas.
I would go back to a standard buffer and spring.  If it ain't broke, don't fix it...
18" rifle gas should already be soft shooting, the heavy buffer and spring is probably a little overkill.
8/4/2015 3:45:21 PM EDT
[#2]

Quote History
Quoted:


Sounds like too much buffer / spring or not enough gas.

I would go back to a standard buffer and spring.  If it ain't broke, don't fix it...

18" rifle gas should already be soft shooting, the heavy buffer and spring is probably a little overkill.
View Quote




 
All of this.  If you already have the parts just swap the buffer first and see if that helps.  If it's still doing it then try the standard spring and see if that resolves the problem.  Now if it's still doing it after all that then you've got some more troubleshooting to do.
8/4/2015 3:46:05 PM EDT
[#3]
You think a carbine buffer with my JP spring will be okay? I like they're spring because it's polished and takes out the spring noise, I just wished they made a standard power spring

Edit: didn't see the above post before I posted
I think I'll pick up a standard buffer and give it a go
8/4/2015 4:00:04 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote History
Quoted:
You think a carbine buffer with my JP spring will be okay? I like they're spring because it's polished and takes out the spring noise, I just wished they made a standard power spring

Edit: didn't see the above post before I posted
I think I'll pick up a standard buffer and give it a go
View Quote


Try one, then the other.
If the "sproing" bothers you, there's always the JP silent buffer, or you could just rub a little red grease on a standard spring.
8/4/2015 6:05:26 PM EDT
[#5]
8/4/2015 6:25:31 PM EDT
[#6]
Mines right on that 4:30 line so I'm hoping a standard carbine buffer will put it more in the optimal range and ultimately allow be to shoot steel if I want/need
8/4/2015 10:24:30 PM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
I've put about 250 rounds through my build and have noticed that the pile of spent cases ends up at about a 4-5 o'clock location and short strokes almost every time when shooting cheap steel. This leads me to believe that something is wrong with my buffer/spring. I'm currently running a JP polished buffer spring which is 7% stronger than stock and an H2 buffer with an 18" rifle length barrel. I know the gas port is aligned and I don't think that is the problem. Do yall think going down to an H or standard buffer would correct this? I'd like to keep my JP spring but maybe a standard spring is the answer. Let me know what you think!
View Quote

Your buffer and spring are probably not "bad," but they don't play well with your cheap steel ammo.  I think the issue is that H2 buffer being too heavy for your setup.  

First, forget "the chart" when thinking about this issue.  That heavy H2 buffer seems to be stealing energy from the carrier, which translates to slower carrier speed in rearward movement, which in turn means the empties kinda fall out instead of being bounced forward off the brass deflector.  An H2 buffer is more than 50% heavier than a standard buffer (standard is about 3oz while H2 is about 4.7oz), which makes a big difference.  If you have a standard carbine buffer I'd try that.  And I'll bet you don't short stroke with steel with a standard buffer.
8/4/2015 11:53:37 PM EDT
[#8]
Or, if you have more labor than money, you can increase the gas pressure to reliably shoot lower powered ammo by drilling your barrel gas port to the next + drill bit size.
8/5/2015 12:18:16 AM EDT
[#9]
I figure I'll try a buffer,  then maybe a spring before I go making permanent mods but I'll definitely look at doing that if all else fails
8/5/2015 9:17:54 AM EDT
[#10]
I don’t think 7% is going to matter.
I would try a H buffer.
8/8/2015 2:15:39 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote History



I hate this pie-chart,  If your rifle ejects cleanly for every round fired then call it success and forget the chart.
8/8/2015 3:02:40 AM EDT
[#12]
It's hard to tell from a pile of spent brass. You'll need an observer to watch. The problem is that cases hitting the shell deflector can wind up in totally different places. You'll have to determine if the cases are indeed hitting the case deflector or not. Personally, I don't mind mine being a tad overgassed (hitting the deflector), so long as it throws them clear. I always like to err on the side of over gassed (that way I'm assured it will shoot steel AND brass with no issues). I'm one of those guys that wants his rifle to shoot EVERYTHING, rather than "tune" it to work optimally with ONE load/round.
8/8/2015 4:36:02 AM EDT
[#13]
I'm the same way, and even though I don't plan on shooting steel very much I want the peace of mind knowing that I can. I want to try one more time to see if it'll cycle steel since it was pretty new and has almost 300 rounds through it now and if I still get shortstrokes I'll pick up a carbine or H buffer
8/8/2015 7:02:50 AM EDT
[#14]
I'd pick up a carbine buffer, and test drive it.  If then you decide that you may want to try a H buffer, just swap a tungsten weight from your H2 with one of the steel weights from the std buffer.  It's as simple as punching out of a roll pin and likely $10 cheaper.
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