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Posted: 12/5/2014 12:52:25 PM EDT
| I've seen mixed reviews.. |
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I think so. I used it to blacken aluminum that was exposed when I engraved a lower and it made it jet black. Worked perfectly. I think the key is that the aluminum you're treating has to be very clean - no oxidation or anything. Clean, bare aluminum. ^ agree if it is a fresh scratch Aluma-Black works well. If you let it sit for a few minutes and the aluminum oxidizes (not always obvious) the aluma-black doesn't work as well. |
| Put a little oil or something on the scratch to reduce oxidation. Clean it with degreaser or brake cleaner when you get the Aluma-Black. Best you can do now IMHO. Also, seem like the product works well on some types of aluminum and not so well on others. I guess it depends of the alloy mix. A little heat helps too, not to much, just real warm. Good luck. |
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Quoted:
Clean up the "gouge" with steel wool before using the Aluminum Black. You risk embedding particles of the steel wool in the scratch, which will rust later and possibly pit the area even deeper. If you want to 'clean' the scratch on the aluminum use an acid such as vinegar or lemon juice (even better). This is enough to degrease and prep the surface for the aluminum black. Actually, at that point even a permanent marker or a dot of Rit Dye will do as good a job of blackening the surface. |
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Quoted:
You risk embedding particles of the steel wool in the scratch, which will rust later and possibly pit the area even deeper. If you want to 'clean' the scratch on the aluminum use an acid such as vinegar or lemon juice (even better). This is enough to degrease and prep the surface for the aluminum black. Actually, at that point even a permanent marker or a dot of Rit Dye will do as good a job of blackening the surface. Quoted:
Quoted:
Clean up the "gouge" with steel wool before using the Aluminum Black. You risk embedding particles of the steel wool in the scratch, which will rust later and possibly pit the area even deeper. If you want to 'clean' the scratch on the aluminum use an acid such as vinegar or lemon juice (even better). This is enough to degrease and prep the surface for the aluminum black. Actually, at that point even a permanent marker or a dot of Rit Dye will do as good a job of blackening the surface. I second using lemon juice - it removes aluminum oxide nicely. But before you try Aluminum Black on that spot, you should also thoroughly degrease it. Use a good, strong detergent (Dawn works well) followed by a rinse in strong rubbing alcohol (I get 91% at my local grocery/pharmacy) to make the spot pristine. Then immediately use the Aluminum Black per directions - except add heating the part, as I mentioned earlier. Aluminum Black doesn't protect the metal as well as the hardcoat anodizing it had originally, but it does a decent job on smaller spots. For a really big gouge or scrape, paint is about the best thing to cover the aluminum to prevent oxidation. While aluminum oxide "seals" the surface of the metal, it's soft and weak, and depending on that oxide layer to protect the metal isn't a good idea. Hardcoat is called hardcoat because this form of anodizing leaves a layer of treated metal that really is a lot harder than the underlying aluminum. |
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One more item to remember when using aluminum black, cold blue or any other refinishing agent:
Degrease whatever you applicator you are using. The cotton on cotton swabs usually is treated with lanolin to make the cotton softer so avoid those. A cheap model paint brush is a safe bet, plus you wont get any stray fibers. You can get packs of mini disposable brushes for fairly cheap. Old toothbrushes work well also. |
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Instructions on a bottle of Aluminum Black:
Confine solution to the area being touched up as it can effect existing finish. 1. Clean metal parts or area to be blackened with Birchwood Casey cleaner-degreaser or denatured alcohol and rinse with cold water. 2. Brighten area with fine steel wool to remove any surface oxide. 3. Clean again and rinse. 4. Apply aluminum black with saturated swab allow to work 1 minute: rinse with cold water and wipe dry. 5. Polish lightly with soft, clean cloth. 6. Apply Birchwood Casey gun stock wax or oil to enhance and protect the finish. Allow to cure overnight for best results. Aluminum black is what I use for touch up and it works nicely. -W |
For touch ups get a bottle of graphite black air dry cerakote and some little makeup sponges on a stick for putting on eye makeup....wife or GF probably has some....put three 1/2 inch ball bearings in the bottle after cleaning in acetone to remove all grease and oil...store in fridge....when you want to use take it out and let it warm to room temp....shake hell out of it to mix cerakote then apply with the make up sponge, clean the area to be touched up with acetone, and apply cerakote with sponge on a stick........with practice you won't be able to see the touch up...... I do this on dinged up customer guns I get in for repair all the time.......and they are usually amazed.......
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