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Posted: 8/7/2014 4:21:02 PM EDT
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I'm working on getting together stuff for my first build and I'm currently shopping for a 14.5" barrel that will be pinned to the brake, and the gas block. The gas block will be sitting beneath a Fortis REV 12" Rail.
What gas blocks would you recommend? Do you recommend Set Screws or clamps? I'm guessing pinning is the best but it seems folks go for screws or clamps a lot. Having never done this before, please forgive if the following is a silly question. Once I select the barrel and the muzzle device I'll be sending it away (probably to ADCO as that seems to be what everyone recommends) to get it pinned. Once I get the barrel back, will I be able to get the gas block over the muzzle device or will I need to have the gas block already attached prior to attaching the muzzle device. I'm guessing the later? I noticed that Daniel Defense offers their 14.5" barrels with a low profile gas block already attached, is that a good idea? Or is there some reason to avoid those? I'm guessing that barrels usually come 'plain' and I'd need to dimple it myself. I don't own an expensive floor Drill Press, I just have a $100 benchtop drill press..will I be able to dimple it myself using just that drill press? Or would I be better off sending the gas block and the barrel to have it done (perhaps along with the pinning/welding by ADCO)? Any hints, tips, or recommendations you have would be appreciated. Thanks! |
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14.5" seems like a PITA to me but have never built one. measure the diameter of where the gas block with be parked and the muzzle device, that will give you the answer to chicken or egg. Guaranteed, you will be stuck with whatever barrel nut/hand grip you choose without un-pinning the muzzle device to change either.
pre assembled or diy is your choice. I know I can fully service my diy builds and replace anything I want/need to. Verse my prebuilt ar10 that I can pretty much consider a club if some things fail. Most barrels will come with the most rearward dimple pre drilled. Read the barrel description or email them to be sure though, high end ones may come plain. Google has all the answers on never having touched and AR to building one from stripped parts. |
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If your sending your barrel to ADCO, send your gas block with it and have them install it too. You won't get your GB over a muzzle device unless you use the one made by voodoo innovations, manimal flash hider. If I were building 14.5 I would highly consider using the manimal flash hider as it opens up your future options if you want to change your build at a later date with less hassles.
VI Manimal |
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Thanks for the responses so far guys. I'm definitely going to go 14.5" though. I realize it limits future options but I already have two 16" and I'd like to add a 14.5 midlength. I've read alot about them and would like to give it a shot, form my own opinions, get some experience with it, and see what I think.
Thanks for the tip on the flash hider that will fit under a gas block. Thats pretty cool. For this build though, for good or for ill, I'm most likely going to go with a Surefire or PWS brake. You guys answered one of my questions...that the gas block likely won't fit over a brake (except the FH you linked to). How about a mil-spec barrel nut? Will that fit over a gas block so that I can install the barrel nut after I get the pinned barrel and gas block back from ADCO? Or do I need to have the barrel nut on the barrel and just hanging loosely at the back when they install the gas block and brake? Too bad there isn't such a thing as some sort of clamshell 2-piece gas block that you can put on after the fact. That would be nice :) Any recommendations on good, light, .750, low profile gas block? I see a ton of choices out there from everyone from Daniel Defense to Fortis and I'm just not sure what is good. Any reason I should not go with the DD barrel that comes with the gas block? Or is it a crappy gas block that it comes with? I'm guessing it must come already attached and pinned and/or set screws? Or they just sent it with the barrel for you to do? |
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Quoted:
If your sending your barrel to ADCO, send your gas block with it and have them install it too. You won't get your GB over a muzzle device unless you use the one made by voodoo innovations, manimal flash hider. If I were building 14.5 I would highly consider using the manimal flash hider as it opens up your future options if you want to change your build at a later date with less hassles. VI Manimal Buy the gas block of your choice, barrel, muzzle device and your free float rail and send it all with your upper to Adco and they will professionally assemble everything for you. Good Luck |
| Actually was hoping to do as much of this myself as I could. ADCO would be easier but the more I can do myself, the better. Not to save money, but just to learn. I'm trying to determine the minimum that I'll have to have ADCO do and still be able to assemble the most I can on my own. |
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If you want you can put the gas tube into the gas block and tap the roll pin in if this is all about a "learning experience" for you. Past that you're literally just sliding it onto the barrel, but you could do that and then send it to ADCO I suppose. When you get it back, though, you'll just have to slide it back off a good bit to stick it through your barrel nut/upper... To be honest, if you can hammer a nail and slide a straw into a lid, you've pretty much got putting a gas block and tube on an AR down already.
As for set screw/ pin / clamp on, set screws and clamp ons are more popular (IMO) because they're easier to get off and change if you don't like them. With set screw types, a barrels dimple is usually just a reference point and helps you not scratch your barrel up so much tightening it. Clamp ons are popular when accurazing a gun, because they distribute the force evenly around the barrel instead at a single spot like set screws. They also don't scratch as much (YMMV). However, you will normally need a larger handguard (1.5 ID barely clears my YHM clamp on) if you want a truly free floated barrel. All in all, it's a matter of personal opinion. Just like the rest of an AR for the most part haha. |
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set screws are fine for gas blocks. There is no need to dimple the barrel either. i didn't even use loctite on the screws and all mine did were get tighter.
Since you're putting it under the rail, there's no need to get fancy with it either. I'd get an Anderson Mfg. low profile gas block because their prices are great. |
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If you are set on the 14.5 pinned, then send it to Adco for complete assembly...otherwise buy a 16" barrel and do it all yourself. You are setting yourself up for a lot of frustration since you have no knowledge and no tools. Why are you set on the 14.5? No need to send a 14.5" barrel to Adco - take it to your local metal shop and simply have the muzzle device spot welded to the barrel in 4 spots. ATF simply requires that it requires over 2000 degrees of heat to remove it. Having it spot welded shouldn't cost you more than around $30. |
| Give Roy at weaponoutfitters.com a call, he offers all the services you need, I had two uppers put together by him and his guys. I had a 14.5 pinned and welded as well as had the gas block pinned in placed. Looking at my rifle they also still use the set screws on the gas block after the pin. His prices are very good and the turn around time is fast. You can find a link to his sight in the industry forum. |
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