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Posted: 3/10/2014 4:03:05 PM EDT
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So I am trying to instal my LMT trigger and selector into my lower and I am running into some problems.
When I instal the trigger like normal I cannot insert the selector due to the tail of the trigger sticks up and blocks the selector from being installed. Yes the hammer is cocked and the selector is at an angle. So I removed the hammer and put the selector in, now it is virtually impossible to instal the hammer. As in it can't be pushed down far enough. However forcing it like an idiot I got it to go. Once forced together the trigger and safety were locked up and nothing worked, even if the hammer was cocked and the selector was on fire. I tried with another trigger group and got the same results, then I took both trigger groups and tried them in another lower and everything worked fine. So ARFCOM what am I doing wrong or is something out of spec? FYI all the trigger parts and safety came from working factory weapons. Update: I took it back to the dealer to exchange it for another that I know he had, and it was also out of spec. He even had a lower parts kit made by Mag Tactical and it didn't fit either. FYI not a Mag Tactical bashing thread just saying keep your eye out. I will be waiting for a replacement, I have no desire to try another company because I am doing a lightweight build. Obviously they will make it right because their email said they would, but if you are interested you might want to bring a set of calipers with you. |
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Quoted:
what lower are you using? Was it an 80% that you finished? I had something similar and turned out that hammer pin hole location was too low by about 1/16" This is what I think the problem will be but you never know. It is a Mag Tactical lower, so not an 80% but as far as I can tell there haven't been any reports of out of spec lowers. |
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Quoted:
This is what I think the problem will be but you never know. It is a Mag Tactical lower, so not an 80% but as far as I can tell there haven't been any reports of out of spec lowers. Quoted:
Quoted:
what lower are you using? Was it an 80% that you finished? I had something similar and turned out that hammer pin hole location was too low by about 1/16" This is what I think the problem will be but you never know. It is a Mag Tactical lower, so not an 80% but as far as I can tell there haven't been any reports of out of spec lowers. Since you have a couple of lowers, why not do a quick measurement and see if that hammer pin hole is out of spec? |
RIF
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Since you have a couple of lowers, why not do a quick measurement and see if that hammer pin hole is out of spec? Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
what lower are you using? Was it an 80% that you finished? I had something similar and turned out that hammer pin hole location was too low by about 1/16" This is what I think the problem will be but you never know. It is a Mag Tactical lower, so not an 80% but as far as I can tell there haven't been any reports of out of spec lowers. Since you have a couple of lowers, why not do a quick measurement and see if that hammer pin hole is out of spec? I should but I have no idea where I put my calipers when I moved. Maybe time to buy a spare YAY. |
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Sounds like an 80% or maybe it's a quittin' time receiver. Use a caliper and compare pin/selector bore locations on your receivers...I see someone beat me to that remedy. Not an 80% but I took some rough measurements and it looks like the safety selector hole is about 1/10th to 1/8th lower than on my other receivers. 
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| The selector and the trigger extension are binding...Your next move is to notify your FFL/dealer or better yet, the manufacturer. I've only done that once with Glock. They sent the receiver to Austria where the receiver was destroyed and a new receiver was made using the original serial number. |
there is a step in The $0.50 AR Trigger Job that may be an option if all else fails.
"This image shows the adjusted trigger protruding into the safety selector hole. This intrusion must be corrected. Mark the back of the trigger that is showing through the cross hole for the safety selector. You can use a metal scribe, or a very fine point felt tip pin. The material showing in the hole must be removed from the trigger. Removing this material will allow you to use the factory safety selector. DO NOT TAKE ANY MORE MATERIAL OFF THAN YOU HAVE TO. This is not a race, take your time, go slow and do smooth, neat work." 
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there is a step in The $0.50 AR Trigger Job that may be an option if all else fails. http://www.junkyardgenius.com/firearms/ar-15/arimages/trigger08.jpg "This image shows the adjusted trigger protruding into the safety selector hole. This intrusion must be corrected. Mark the back of the trigger that is showing through the cross hole for the safety selector. You can use a metal scribe, or a very fine point felt tip pin. The material showing in the hole must be removed from the trigger. Removing this material will allow you to use the factory safety selector. DO NOT TAKE ANY MORE MATERIAL OFF THAN YOU HAVE TO. This is not a race, take your time, go slow and do smooth, neat work." http://www.junkyardgenius.com/firearms/ar-15/arimages/trigger09.jpg One of the triggers I tried had that kind of a notch cut in it but still no dice. |
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If your lower is 1/8" difference, that would do it. Need to borrow a caliper or take the lowers to the store and measure them. My guess is that is the problem.
Pictures? It's hard to see what is going on through your words. I had a problem with a DPMS trigger that need to be sanded near the pin hole due to some excess metal from the mold causing it to be an RCH too wide. When the trigger alone is installed, does it move freely? Post up some pictures for us. photobucket is going to be your friend. |
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