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8/17/2013 5:41:40 AM EDT
was going to order some parts, and keep seeing this tool.  For you people who build yourself have you had to use this tool to true a receiver or is gonna gather dust from non use?  or do you buy it if you have a problem with a particular upper and use it  Now they are only 18.00 so what are your thoughts? would like to hear from manufacturers especially if used  thanks
8/17/2013 5:54:41 AM EDT
[#1]
For $18 it wouldn't be a bad thing to have "just in case."  I have yet to encounter an upper that needed it, but I can't say I won't.  I'd see a use with those increasingly available "blemished" uppers, where maybe the blemish is inconsistent anodizing... maybe on the front face of the upper.
8/17/2013 8:07:36 AM EDT
[#2]
Anodizing adds a lot of corrosion resistance to aluminum.
Those tools remove anodizing.
Never the less I would think there are cases where lapping would be appropriate.
8/17/2013 8:37:42 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote History
Quoted:
For $18 it wouldn't be a bad thing to have "just in case."  I have yet to encounter an upper that needed it, but I can't say I won't.  I'd see a use with those increasingly available "blemished" uppers, where maybe the blemish is inconsistent anodizing... maybe on the front face of the upper.
View Quote



Where did you see one for $18?  They are $35 at Brownell's.
8/17/2013 11:08:59 AM EDT
[#5]
midway is giving me a birthday discount , 20.00 is the norm
8/17/2013 12:03:47 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote History
Quoted:
Anodizing adds a lot of corrosion resistance to aluminum.
Those tools remove anodizing.
Never the less I would think there are cases where lapping would be appropriate.
View Quote
I'm not suggesting grinding down to bare aluminum, just smoothing out inconsistent anodizing.  The Wheeler tool in the link above comes with 220 grit compound; I'd use something a lot finer than that, and check for true frequntly.  I also would be leery of running either the Wheeler or the AR Stoner tool with an electric drill.  I'd do it by hand.  Unless we're talking about a major irregularity in the actual face of the upper, it shouldn't take more than a little effort to get the upper perfectly smooth.  

If it does have a problem beyond the surface left by the anodizing process, then we're definitely talking about a "seconds" upper, in which case it was either really cheap, or it's going back!  If you do get down to bare metal doing that, you can use something like Aluminum Black to protect it - and using a quality barrel nut grease will finish the protection process.
8/17/2013 1:18:34 PM EDT
[#7]
I have two of them that I have never used.  I wanted to try it out and see if they made a difference, but never did.  Now they are paperweights...
8/17/2013 1:40:24 PM EDT
[#8]
One good use would be to make a barrel nut that wouldn't index below 85ft/lbs align at a lower torque value.
8/18/2013 7:01:46 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote History
Quoted:
One good use would be to make a barrel nut that wouldn't index below 85ft/lbs align at a lower torque value.
View Quote


This has saved my ass more than once, especially if you like fixed FSB's.
8/18/2013 7:17:18 AM EDT
[#10]
I just use a piece of marble or a 1/4" thick piece of tempered glass and some automotive sandpaper 320, 600 and 1000. Comes in handy for many things.
8/18/2013 7:59:04 AM EDT
[#11]
Each to his own, but I would not freehand lap an upper myself.
The tool is too cheap and pretty much guarantees the result will be square to the centerline of the upper.
8/18/2013 12:09:22 PM EDT
[#12]
I've used them on a few of my builds.  It's amazing how quality parts typically do not have a square face.  I think it's worth the few extra minutes.
8/18/2013 12:31:18 PM EDT
[#13]
I have one and I use a fairly coarse valve grinding compound with it by hand. I mostly use it to keep the barrel torque down. If you use a little grease on your barrel nut I doubt if corrosion would ever be a problem.
8/18/2013 1:16:50 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote History
Quoted:
I just use a piece of marble or a 1/4" thick piece of tempered glass and some automotive sandpaper 320, 600 and 1000. Comes in handy for many things.
View Quote


If you're going to do this, well, then, this...
8/18/2013 1:25:27 PM EDT
[#15]
On 16" rifles or longer I use my lapping tool.

I've seen it enough times that the barrel points in a direction that is not straight in line with the rail system that's being used.

For SBR uppers that aren't going to be shot to 300 yards I don't worry with it much.
8/18/2013 1:27:47 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote History
Quoted:
On 16" rifles or longer I use my lapping tool.

I've seen it enough times that the barrel points in a direction that is not straight in line with the rail system that's being used.

For SBR uppers that aren't going to be shot to 300 yards I don't worry with it much.
View Quote


Good advice.
8/18/2013 2:28:59 PM EDT
[#17]
On my upper that was Cerakoted I used the lapping tool from Midway to make sure it was even.

I don't see why one would think doing it by hand would be beneficial.
8/18/2013 2:45:53 PM EDT
[#18]
The lapping compound is the expensive part of it
8/18/2013 3:00:52 PM EDT
[#19]
I lap upper receivers after I Cerakote them or on the rare occasion I get one that is really tight.



8/18/2013 4:37:39 PM EDT
[#20]
Burnt Bronze? Looks nice...
8/18/2013 4:51:08 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote History
Quoted:
Burnt Bronze? Looks nice...
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It's Dark Burnt Bronze- a custom mix of burnt bronze ans graphite black.
8/18/2013 4:56:31 PM EDT
[#22]
I thought they were intended to lap the face of the upper receiver and not the internal diameter? I'm not quite sure the benefit of lapping the ID unless you have an extension that does not fit.

B
8/18/2013 5:04:53 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote History
Quoted:
I thought they were intended to lap the face of the upper receiver and not the internal diameter? I'm not quite sure the benefit of lapping the ID unless you have an extension that does not fit.

B
View Quote


Lapping isn't necessary in 99% of uppers. Some uppers can be really tight and lapping can make assembly and operation of the firearm easier/smoother.

I do check every upper I assemble with the tool, I have only ran across a few that the tool wouldn't slide in and out of easily.
8/23/2013 7:54:13 AM EDT
[#24]
Amazingly little material needs to be removed from that barrel flange mating surface to " clock " a barrel nut and/or the grooves/ slots/ -or- rail on a hand guard tube.
I'm satisfied with the usefulness of the marginally priced tool. I'd rather lap a few thousandths off the upper receiver than rely on (too) thin spacer washers and such.
8/23/2013 8:16:45 AM EDT
[#25]
Didn't someone do a test on an upper that would change Point Of Impact as it warmed up.

They lapped the front of the receiver and found it to be off on one side, after lapping it no longer changed POI.

This was posted awhile back IIRC.
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