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Posted: 8/15/2013 4:07:09 PM EDT
| Ordered a bcm 16" standard barrel with only 1 dimple. Should I attempt to add the additional dimple? Not sure if purchasing a jig is worth it especially if the jig hole spacing may not match the holes on the low profile gas block hole I have on order. FYI the gas block will be covered by a 12" rail. |
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Ordered a bcm 16" standard barrel with only 1 dimple. Should I attempt to add the additional dimple? Not sure if purchasing a jig is worth it especially if the jig hole spacing may not match the holes on the low profile gas block hole I have on order. FYI the gas block will be covered by a 12" rail. I have a jig, when a barrel comes pre dimpled I do not add another dimple. A drop of red Loctite on the screws and tighten down. If ever you need to remove, use a heat gun or torch to 150-200 degrees on the screws and then loosen, do them one at a time. I have never had one come loose, nor have I had an issue removing. |
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Ordered a bcm 16" standard barrel with only 1 dimple. Should I attempt to add the additional dimple? Not sure if purchasing a jig is worth it especially if the jig hole spacing may not match the holes on the low profile gas block hole I have on order. FYI the gas block will be covered by a 12" rail. As mentioned by others, the dimple does nothing but help with alignment, it does not hold anything. I have several rifles with un-dimpled barrels ( Daniel Defense) , the gas block was put on with loctite red and I have had no issues so far. Take a look at the ADCO website and you can get an education on this. The short version is, if you have to have absolute reliability ( Military / LE) get it pinned. Think of it this way, if you put on the gas block with loctite and you get a failure, you can always go back and have it dimpled, pinned etc. Once you have the barrel machined, you cannot un-machine it. |
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I once thought dimpling with locitite was the way to go. Convenient and inexpensive. But after purchasing a Geissele super gas block that either does set screws or pinning, I did both. The gun-smith used the dimpling set screw to drill the hole for pinning. By the way, if I used the set screw only the gas port would not have been aligned properly. This was a rainier arms medcon barrel.
In short, spend the extra $25-$30 and get it pinned. The gas block will last at least the the lifetime of the barrel and then forget about it! The super gas block is made of stainless and Geiselle calls it bomb-proof in the installation instructions. After my installation, I now why they made that reference since it is not going anywhere. They actually use a stainless spiral roll pin. |
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LOL. The bullshit some people spew is hilarious. I have used red loctite on 8 set screw gas blocks, with a very shallow dimple, torque stabilized to proper spec for the size screw they came with, and I have not had a problem with a single one. I have also used it on all manner of scope rings, scope bases, and sights.
If red loctite turned to liquid after a few rounds of fire, none of my gas blocks, scope mount screws, or aftermarket sights would have any loctite in them anymore. At most, it might soften some, then rehardens as your rifle cools back down. As long as you aren't turning the screws while it is soft, you aren't going to lose anything. And I have also removed plenty of screws that were torqued with red loctite. Not once have I had to use any kind of torch on firearm fasteners. Even if you do, with fasteners that small, just a few seconds with a flame from a cigarette lighter would be enough to soften it. |
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Quoted: LOL. The bullshit some people spew is hilarious. I have used red loctite on 8 set screw gas blocks, with a very shallow dimple, torque stabilized to proper spec for the size screw they came with, and I have not had a problem with a single one. I have also used it on all manner of scope rings, scope bases, and sights. If red loctite turned to liquid after a few rounds of fire, none of my gas blocks, scope mount screws, or aftermarket sights would have any loctite in them anymore. At most, it might soften some, then rehardens as your rifle cools back down. As long as you aren't turning the screws while it is soft, you aren't going to lose anything. And I have also removed plenty of screws that were torqued with red loctite. Not once have I had to use any kind of torch on firearm fasteners. Even if you do, with fasteners that small, just a few seconds with a flame from a cigarette lighter would be enough to soften it. How the fuck do scope mounts and sights fit into this conversation? They are not subject to extreme heat. Gas blocks and suppressor mounts need to be attached with Rocksett or you are just pissing into the wind. I suspect that you have never used an AR type rifle hard enough to generate any real heat and that is why you have never experienced a failure with red loctite.
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You don't know the specs of red loctite and you don't have any clue what you are talking about. The temperatures attained by the gas block while in use far exceede the failure point of red loctite. How the fuck do scope mounts and sights fit into this conversation? They are not subject to extreme heat. Gas blocks and suppressor mounts need to be attached with Rocksett or you are just pissing into the wind. I suspect that you have never used an AR type rifle hard enough to generate any real heat and that is why you have never experienced a failure with red loctite. Quoted:
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LOL. The bullshit some people spew is hilarious. I have used red loctite on 8 set screw gas blocks, with a very shallow dimple, torque stabilized to proper spec for the size screw they came with, and I have not had a problem with a single one. I have also used it on all manner of scope rings, scope bases, and sights. If red loctite turned to liquid after a few rounds of fire, none of my gas blocks, scope mount screws, or aftermarket sights would have any loctite in them anymore. At most, it might soften some, then rehardens as your rifle cools back down. As long as you aren't turning the screws while it is soft, you aren't going to lose anything. And I have also removed plenty of screws that were torqued with red loctite. Not once have I had to use any kind of torch on firearm fasteners. Even if you do, with fasteners that small, just a few seconds with a flame from a cigarette lighter would be enough to soften it. How the fuck do scope mounts and sights fit into this conversation? They are not subject to extreme heat. Gas blocks and suppressor mounts need to be attached with Rocksett or you are just pissing into the wind. I suspect that you have never used an AR type rifle hard enough to generate any real heat and that is why you have never experienced a failure with red loctite. I'm looking right at the specs for red. The point is 99% of AR owners will never shoot their ARs to the point of loctite failure. Red loctite is good to 300 degrees. Even running a barrel as hard as you can for ten magazines would only bring a barrel to just above 350 or so. And it quickly cools back down well below that in just the time it takes to change a magazine. That doesn't mean the loctite just vaporizes. If you vaporized the loctite out of the threads in those screws, you would be well on your way to destroying your barrel anyway. And scope mounts and sights fit perfectly into the equation because heat transfers from the barrel to the receiver and slides as well. Grab a handgun by the slide, instead of the grip after just two or three magazines of slow fire and tell us how fucking cool it is. I built 8 rifles as I stated, and I know two of them have been blasted all to shit by a bunch of rednecks in the woods with as much ammo as they wanted to run through them. I asked them to do it, and nothing was falling off or coming loose. |
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Quoted: I'm looking right at the specs for red. The point is 99% of AR owners will never shoot their ARs to the point of loctite failure. Red loctite is good to 300 degrees. Even running a barrel as hard as you can for ten magazines would only bring a barrel to just above 350 or so. And it quickly cools back down well below that in just the time it takes to change a magazine. That doesn't mean the loctite just vaporizes. If you vaporized the loctite out of the threads in those screws, you would be well on your way to destroying your barrel anyway. And scope mounts and sights fit perfectly into the equation because heat transfers from the barrel to the receiver and slides as well. Grab a handgun by the slide, instead of the grip after just two or three magazines of slow fire and tell us how fucking cool it is. I built 8 rifles as I stated, and I know two of them have been blasted all to shit by a bunch of rednecks in the woods with as much ammo as they wanted to run through them. I asked them to do it, and nothing was falling off or coming loose. Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: LOL. The bullshit some people spew is hilarious. I have used red loctite on 8 set screw gas blocks, with a very shallow dimple, torque stabilized to proper spec for the size screw they came with, and I have not had a problem with a single one. I have also used it on all manner of scope rings, scope bases, and sights. If red loctite turned to liquid after a few rounds of fire, none of my gas blocks, scope mount screws, or aftermarket sights would have any loctite in them anymore. At most, it might soften some, then rehardens as your rifle cools back down. As long as you aren't turning the screws while it is soft, you aren't going to lose anything. And I have also removed plenty of screws that were torqued with red loctite. Not once have I had to use any kind of torch on firearm fasteners. Even if you do, with fasteners that small, just a few seconds with a flame from a cigarette lighter would be enough to soften it. How the fuck do scope mounts and sights fit into this conversation? They are not subject to extreme heat. Gas blocks and suppressor mounts need to be attached with Rocksett or you are just pissing into the wind. I suspect that you have never used an AR type rifle hard enough to generate any real heat and that is why you have never experienced a failure with red loctite. I'm looking right at the specs for red. The point is 99% of AR owners will never shoot their ARs to the point of loctite failure. Red loctite is good to 300 degrees. Even running a barrel as hard as you can for ten magazines would only bring a barrel to just above 350 or so. And it quickly cools back down well below that in just the time it takes to change a magazine. That doesn't mean the loctite just vaporizes. If you vaporized the loctite out of the threads in those screws, you would be well on your way to destroying your barrel anyway. And scope mounts and sights fit perfectly into the equation because heat transfers from the barrel to the receiver and slides as well. Grab a handgun by the slide, instead of the grip after just two or three magazines of slow fire and tell us how fucking cool it is. I built 8 rifles as I stated, and I know two of them have been blasted all to shit by a bunch of rednecks in the woods with as much ammo as they wanted to run through them. I asked them to do it, and nothing was falling off or coming loose. The OP never stated his intentions for the rifle, but mount a suppressor and dump a few mags and the temperature will be well above 350 degerees, it will be approaching 500. This is why every single suppressor manufacturer requires that Rocksett be used on their mounts. The gas block will be a simmiliarly high temp. and any screws or fixtures in contact with the gas block should be rocksetted in place. It doesn't matter one fuck what 99% of AR shooters do. There is a right way and a wrong way to mount a gas block and using red loctite would be the wrong way.
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Again, scopes and sights etc. are not relevant to this discussion. Indeed, heat does transfer from barrel to receiver and slides but they will never come anywhere close to the temperatures attained by a gas block or suppressor mount. Red loctite is a good choice for scope mounting etc. The OP never stated his intentions for the rifle, but mount a suppressor and dump a few mags and the temperature will be well above 350 degerees, it will be approaching 500. This is why every single suppressor manufacturer requires that Rocksett be used on their mounts. The gas block will be a simmiliarly high temp. and any screws or fixtures in contact with the gas block should be rocksetted in place. It doesn't matter one fuck what 99% of AR shooters do. There is a right way and a wrong way to mount a gas block and using red loctite would be the wrong way. Quoted:
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LOL. The bullshit some people spew is hilarious. I have used red loctite on 8 set screw gas blocks, with a very shallow dimple, torque stabilized to proper spec for the size screw they came with, and I have not had a problem with a single one. I have also used it on all manner of scope rings, scope bases, and sights. If red loctite turned to liquid after a few rounds of fire, none of my gas blocks, scope mount screws, or aftermarket sights would have any loctite in them anymore. At most, it might soften some, then rehardens as your rifle cools back down. As long as you aren't turning the screws while it is soft, you aren't going to lose anything. And I have also removed plenty of screws that were torqued with red loctite. Not once have I had to use any kind of torch on firearm fasteners. Even if you do, with fasteners that small, just a few seconds with a flame from a cigarette lighter would be enough to soften it. How the fuck do scope mounts and sights fit into this conversation? They are not subject to extreme heat. Gas blocks and suppressor mounts need to be attached with Rocksett or you are just pissing into the wind. I suspect that you have never used an AR type rifle hard enough to generate any real heat and that is why you have never experienced a failure with red loctite. I'm looking right at the specs for red. The point is 99% of AR owners will never shoot their ARs to the point of loctite failure. Red loctite is good to 300 degrees. Even running a barrel as hard as you can for ten magazines would only bring a barrel to just above 350 or so. And it quickly cools back down well below that in just the time it takes to change a magazine. That doesn't mean the loctite just vaporizes. If you vaporized the loctite out of the threads in those screws, you would be well on your way to destroying your barrel anyway. And scope mounts and sights fit perfectly into the equation because heat transfers from the barrel to the receiver and slides as well. Grab a handgun by the slide, instead of the grip after just two or three magazines of slow fire and tell us how fucking cool it is. I built 8 rifles as I stated, and I know two of them have been blasted all to shit by a bunch of rednecks in the woods with as much ammo as they wanted to run through them. I asked them to do it, and nothing was falling off or coming loose. The OP never stated his intentions for the rifle, but mount a suppressor and dump a few mags and the temperature will be well above 350 degerees, it will be approaching 500. This is why every single suppressor manufacturer requires that Rocksett be used on their mounts. The gas block will be a simmiliarly high temp. and any screws or fixtures in contact with the gas block should be rocksetted in place. It doesn't matter one fuck what 99% of AR shooters do. There is a right way and a wrong way to mount a gas block and using red loctite would be the wrong way. If it was "wrong" my rifles wouldn't have held up thus far. Unless they were installed incorrectly, I bet you can't show a where red loctite has failed in such applications, aside from the suppressor as I don't deal with them. So apparently, it does matter a whole lot of fuck. |
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Quoted: If it was "wrong" my rifles wouldn't have held up thus far. Unless they were installed incorrectly, I bet you can't show a where red loctite has failed in such applications, aside from the suppressor as I don't deal with them. So apparently, it does matter a whole lot of fuck. Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: LOL. The bullshit some people spew is hilarious. I have used red loctite on 8 set screw gas blocks, with a very shallow dimple, torque stabilized to proper spec for the size screw they came with, and I have not had a problem with a single one. I have also used it on all manner of scope rings, scope bases, and sights. If red loctite turned to liquid after a few rounds of fire, none of my gas blocks, scope mount screws, or aftermarket sights would have any loctite in them anymore. At most, it might soften some, then rehardens as your rifle cools back down. As long as you aren't turning the screws while it is soft, you aren't going to lose anything. And I have also removed plenty of screws that were torqued with red loctite. Not once have I had to use any kind of torch on firearm fasteners. Even if you do, with fasteners that small, just a few seconds with a flame from a cigarette lighter would be enough to soften it. How the fuck do scope mounts and sights fit into this conversation? They are not subject to extreme heat. Gas blocks and suppressor mounts need to be attached with Rocksett or you are just pissing into the wind. I suspect that you have never used an AR type rifle hard enough to generate any real heat and that is why you have never experienced a failure with red loctite. I'm looking right at the specs for red. The point is 99% of AR owners will never shoot their ARs to the point of loctite failure. Red loctite is good to 300 degrees. Even running a barrel as hard as you can for ten magazines would only bring a barrel to just above 350 or so. And it quickly cools back down well below that in just the time it takes to change a magazine. That doesn't mean the loctite just vaporizes. If you vaporized the loctite out of the threads in those screws, you would be well on your way to destroying your barrel anyway. And scope mounts and sights fit perfectly into the equation because heat transfers from the barrel to the receiver and slides as well. Grab a handgun by the slide, instead of the grip after just two or three magazines of slow fire and tell us how fucking cool it is. I built 8 rifles as I stated, and I know two of them have been blasted all to shit by a bunch of rednecks in the woods with as much ammo as they wanted to run through them. I asked them to do it, and nothing was falling off or coming loose. The OP never stated his intentions for the rifle, but mount a suppressor and dump a few mags and the temperature will be well above 350 degerees, it will be approaching 500. This is why every single suppressor manufacturer requires that Rocksett be used on their mounts. The gas block will be a simmiliarly high temp. and any screws or fixtures in contact with the gas block should be rocksetted in place. It doesn't matter one fuck what 99% of AR shooters do. There is a right way and a wrong way to mount a gas block and using red loctite would be the wrong way. If it was "wrong" my rifles wouldn't have held up thus far. Unless they were installed incorrectly, I bet you can't show a where red loctite has failed in such applications, aside from the suppressor as I don't deal with them. So apparently, it does matter a whole lot of fuck. I have personally witnessed red loctite seeping out of gas block set screws after prolonged strings of fire, many times. You are free to assemble your rifles however you see fit but when the correct method is no more difficult than the wrong method why would you sugest that someone assembling a new rifle or their first rifle do it incorrectly? It is not some new guys fault that your assembly methods are inferior so why should he suffer because you are ignorant?
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Whatever. Go blow smoke up someone else's ass. Every time this conversation comes up, several people say they have done it with no problems. EVERY time someone posts something about their gas block coming loose, they don't know who installed it, how they did it, where they came from, or if they were the ones that did it themselves, they never post again when key questions are asked. The proof is in the pudding. Accept it or not.
HAHAHAHAHA, Loctite seeping out from firing. HAHAHAHAHAHA. What a crock of shit. It doesn't even seep out when you torch it. I always have to clean old loctite out of fasteners, it doesn't matter how hot they got. I'll believe it if you are turning your barrels white hot every time you go shooting. But who the hell does that? |
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Quoted: Whatever. Go blow smoke up someone else's ass. Every time this conversation comes up, several people say they have done it with no problems. EVERY time someone posts something about their gas block coming loose, they don't know who installed it, how they did it, where they came from, or if they were the ones that did it themselves, they never post again when key questions are asked. The proof is in the pudding. Accept it or not. HAHAHAHAHA, Loctite seeping out from firing. HAHAHAHAHAHA. What a crock of shit. It doesn't even seep out when you torch it. I always have to clean old loctite out of fasteners, it doesn't matter how hot they got. I'll believe it if you are turning your barrels white hot every time you go shooting. But who the hell does that? |
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"8 rifles", "several people", I'm pretty sure where the crock of shit is. Are you going to give a reason why it is a good idea to do something incorrectly when it is just as easy to do it the right way? Quoted:
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Whatever. Go blow smoke up someone else's ass. Every time this conversation comes up, several people say they have done it with no problems. EVERY time someone posts something about their gas block coming loose, they don't know who installed it, how they did it, where they came from, or if they were the ones that did it themselves, they never post again when key questions are asked. The proof is in the pudding. Accept it or not. HAHAHAHAHA, Loctite seeping out from firing. HAHAHAHAHAHA. What a crock of shit. It doesn't even seep out when you torch it. I always have to clean old loctite out of fasteners, it doesn't matter how hot they got. I'll believe it if you are turning your barrels white hot every time you go shooting. But who the hell does that? HAHAHAHAHAHAAAA. Take some tissue for your loctite next time you go shooting. HAHAHAHAHAHAHA |
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Quoted: HAHAHAHAHAHAAAA. Take some tissue for your loctite next time you go shooting. HAHAHAHAHAHAHA Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Whatever. Go blow smoke up someone else's ass. Every time this conversation comes up, several people say they have done it with no problems. EVERY time someone posts something about their gas block coming loose, they don't know who installed it, how they did it, where they came from, or if they were the ones that did it themselves, they never post again when key questions are asked. The proof is in the pudding. Accept it or not. HAHAHAHAHA, Loctite seeping out from firing. HAHAHAHAHAHA. What a crock of shit. It doesn't even seep out when you torch it. I always have to clean old loctite out of fasteners, it doesn't matter how hot they got. I'll believe it if you are turning your barrels white hot every time you go shooting. But who the hell does that? HAHAHAHAHAHAAAA. Take some tissue for your loctite next time you go shooting. HAHAHAHAHAHAHA |
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Not my loctite, I wouldn't fuck up a gas block installation like that. I guess you don't have an answer. I figured as much. Quoted:
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Whatever. Go blow smoke up someone else's ass. Every time this conversation comes up, several people say they have done it with no problems. EVERY time someone posts something about their gas block coming loose, they don't know who installed it, how they did it, where they came from, or if they were the ones that did it themselves, they never post again when key questions are asked. The proof is in the pudding. Accept it or not. HAHAHAHAHA, Loctite seeping out from firing. HAHAHAHAHAHA. What a crock of shit. It doesn't even seep out when you torch it. I always have to clean old loctite out of fasteners, it doesn't matter how hot they got. I'll believe it if you are turning your barrels white hot every time you go shooting. But who the hell does that? HAHAHAHAHAHAAAA. Take some tissue for your loctite next time you go shooting. HAHAHAHAHAHAHA You don't even need loctite. As long as you torque the screws correctly you are fine. The loctite is just insurance. |
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Quoted: You don't even need loctite. As long as you torque the screws correctly you are fine. The loctite is just insurance. Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Whatever. Go blow smoke up someone else's ass. Every time this conversation comes up, several people say they have done it with no problems. EVERY time someone posts something about their gas block coming loose, they don't know who installed it, how they did it, where they came from, or if they were the ones that did it themselves, they never post again when key questions are asked. The proof is in the pudding. Accept it or not. HAHAHAHAHA, Loctite seeping out from firing. HAHAHAHAHAHA. What a crock of shit. It doesn't even seep out when you torch it. I always have to clean old loctite out of fasteners, it doesn't matter how hot they got. I'll believe it if you are turning your barrels white hot every time you go shooting. But who the hell does that? HAHAHAHAHAHAAAA. Take some tissue for your loctite next time you go shooting. HAHAHAHAHAHAHA You don't even need loctite. As long as you torque the screws correctly you are fine. The loctite is just insurance. |
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There is absolutely no point in using red loctite for this since it becomes liquid again after a rapid fire string of less than 15 rounds. If you feel the need to use a threadlocker then Rocksett is the product you seek. If you really believe that use some red Loctite on your gas block with your rapid fire and then try to remove the allen screws without any heat 
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Quoted: If you really believe that use some red Loctite on your gas block with your rapid fire and then try to remove the allen screws without any heat Quoted: Quoted: There is absolutely no point in using red loctite for this since it becomes liquid again after a rapid fire string of less than 15 rounds. If you feel the need to use a threadlocker then Rocksett is the product you seek. If you really believe that use some red Loctite on your gas block with your rapid fire and then try to remove the allen screws without any heat |
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Quoted: I just built an upper for the first time with a yankee hill gas block sight (two piece). I purchased some imitation red thread locker from autozone, now im havindg doubts after reading this post. Whats a good website where I can get some cheap priced rockset. |
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All good advise.... my Fortis gas block came in today..and it doesn't fit my BCM standard barrel. Tolerance is very tight. Will try to sand the inside of the gas block this weekend. Before you do any sanding or machine work, try heating the gas block with a heat gun ( Wagner paint etc....) . Gas blocks by design should have close tolerances. I have had several very snug ones, and by using my heat gun, I was able to slide them on. When everything cools back down you have a nice snug fit. The way its supposed to be. |
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All good advise.... my Fortis gas block came in today..and it doesn't fit my BCM standard barrel. Tolerance is very tight. Will try to sand the inside of the gas block this weekend. Before you do any sanding or machine work, try heating the gas block with a heat gun ( Wagner paint etc....) . Gas blocks by design should have close tolerances. I have had several very snug ones, and by using my heat gun, I was able to slide them on. When everything cools back down you have a nice snug fit. The way its supposed to be. |
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If it was "wrong" my rifles wouldn't have held up thus far. Unless they were installed incorrectly, I bet you can't show a where red loctite has failed in such applications, aside from the suppressor as I don't deal with them. So apparently, it does matter a whole lot of fuck. Quoted:
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LOL. The bullshit some people spew is hilarious. I have used red loctite on 8 set screw gas blocks, with a very shallow dimple, torque stabilized to proper spec for the size screw they came with, and I have not had a problem with a single one. I have also used it on all manner of scope rings, scope bases, and sights. If red loctite turned to liquid after a few rounds of fire, none of my gas blocks, scope mount screws, or aftermarket sights would have any loctite in them anymore. At most, it might soften some, then rehardens as your rifle cools back down. As long as you aren't turning the screws while it is soft, you aren't going to lose anything. And I have also removed plenty of screws that were torqued with red loctite. Not once have I had to use any kind of torch on firearm fasteners. Even if you do, with fasteners that small, just a few seconds with a flame from a cigarette lighter would be enough to soften it. How the fuck do scope mounts and sights fit into this conversation? They are not subject to extreme heat. Gas blocks and suppressor mounts need to be attached with Rocksett or you are just pissing into the wind. I suspect that you have never used an AR type rifle hard enough to generate any real heat and that is why you have never experienced a failure with red loctite. I'm looking right at the specs for red. The point is 99% of AR owners will never shoot their ARs to the point of loctite failure. Red loctite is good to 300 degrees. Even running a barrel as hard as you can for ten magazines would only bring a barrel to just above 350 or so. And it quickly cools back down well below that in just the time it takes to change a magazine. That doesn't mean the loctite just vaporizes. If you vaporized the loctite out of the threads in those screws, you would be well on your way to destroying your barrel anyway. And scope mounts and sights fit perfectly into the equation because heat transfers from the barrel to the receiver and slides as well. Grab a handgun by the slide, instead of the grip after just two or three magazines of slow fire and tell us how fucking cool it is. I built 8 rifles as I stated, and I know two of them have been blasted all to shit by a bunch of rednecks in the woods with as much ammo as they wanted to run through them. I asked them to do it, and nothing was falling off or coming loose. The OP never stated his intentions for the rifle, but mount a suppressor and dump a few mags and the temperature will be well above 350 degerees, it will be approaching 500. This is why every single suppressor manufacturer requires that Rocksett be used on their mounts. The gas block will be a simmiliarly high temp. and any screws or fixtures in contact with the gas block should be rocksetted in place. It doesn't matter one fuck what 99% of AR shooters do. There is a right way and a wrong way to mount a gas block and using red loctite would be the wrong way. If it was "wrong" my rifles wouldn't have held up thus far. Unless they were installed incorrectly, I bet you can't show a where red loctite has failed in such applications, aside from the suppressor as I don't deal with them. So apparently, it does matter a whole lot of fuck. You are absolutely correct even when it breaks down the red Loctite still leaves a bonding residue on the set screws they will not back out! |
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Whatever. Go blow smoke up someone else's ass. Every time this conversation comes up, several people say they have done it with no problems. EVERY time someone posts something about their gas block coming loose, they don't know who installed it, how they did it, where they came from, or if they were the ones that did it themselves, they never post again when key questions are asked. The proof is in the pudding. Accept it or not. HAHAHAHAHA, Loctite seeping out from firing. HAHAHAHAHAHA. What a crock of shit. It doesn't even seep out when you torch it. I always have to clean old loctite out of fasteners, it doesn't matter how hot they got. I'll believe it if you are turning your barrels white hot every time you go shooting. But who the hell does that? It may have been the brass casings seeping out, after all brass starts to melt at about 2000 degrees if your color blind you may not be able to tell the difference between red and brass F 
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I just built an upper for the first time with a yankee hill gas block sight (two piece). I purchased some imitation red thread locker from autozone, now im havindg doubts after reading this post. Whats a good website where I can get some cheap priced rockset. I have several of the YHM clamp on folding sight gas blocks. So far none of them have come loose without using any thread locker. |
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