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Posted: 8/5/2013 9:50:46 AM EDT
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Soo the last 4 months I have been buying all kinds of stuff on sale form PSA. I also bought a bunch of other items. Anyhow I keep some DPMS LPK's in the drawer for the use of the small parts as the kit cost me $22/each minus trigger. I did 4 lowers this morning as I am trying to keep busy so I don't fall asleep since I just rolled in from Pakistan. The PSA kits assembled like butter, Roll pins all the right size and all worked well. Move onto the DPMS Triggerless kit. First the Trigger guard roll pin would not seat completely. I had it half way in and it wouldn't go either way. It fit the lower ears no worries but didn't slide well through the trigger guard. Now onto the bolt catch pin. It again did not want to enter its hole. Finally got it set. The mag catches actually work better from the DPMS kit than the ones from the PSA kit.
Lowers were SA&A reaper lowers, I still have 4 more sets of the DPMS kits sans FCG they should work great for spare parts. I have all the proper roll pin holders and drivers. BTW bought some front detent pin tool from brownells that does not fit and will be contacting them about it. Tool did not have clearance enough to properly line up and work. tool sold at brownells, avoid at all cost. I know in previous post I have backed these DPMS kits a bit. These were sent out after the scare. The ones I have used prior t the scare had no tolerance issues. |
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I typically used a box cutter blade for the pivot pin and it works without too much drama. However, this tool from Brownells works like a charm if you're still looking for a tool...
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| Instead of that pivot pin detent tool, i found that a 1/4" clevis pin from any hardware store works just as well. You slide it in from the opposite side that the pivot pin is installed from, line up the first hole in the clevis pin with the hole for the detent, drop in the spring and detent, press them in with a small punch until you can rotate the clevis pin. This will capture the spring and detent. Then push the clevis pin out with the pivot pin. This works great for the price of the clevis pin. Since they arn't held to close tolerance and usually chrome plated, you may have to clean the clevis pin up with some emory cloth to get it to fit correctly. |
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Quoted: Instead of that pivot pin detent tool, i found that a 1/4" clevis pin from any hardware store works just as well. You slide it in from the opposite side that the pivot pin is installed from, line up the first hole in the clevis pin with the hole for the detent, drop in the spring and detent, press them in with a small punch until you can rotate the clevis pin. This will capture the spring and detent. Then push the clevis pin out with the pivot pin. This works great for the price of the clevis pin. Since they arn't held to close tolerance and usually chrome plated, you may have to clean the clevis pin up with some emory cloth to get it to fit correctly.  |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
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Instead of that pivot pin detent tool, i found that a 1/4" clevis pin from any hardware store works just as well. You slide it in from the opposite side that the pivot pin is installed from, line up the first hole in the clevis pin with the hole for the detent, drop in the spring and detent, press them in with a small punch until you can rotate the clevis pin. This will capture the spring and detent. Then push the clevis pin out with the pivot pin. This works great for the price of the clevis pin. Since they arn't held to close tolerance and usually chrome plated, you may have to clean the clevis pin up with some emory cloth to get it to fit correctly.
+2 on the Clevis pin. I am not sure who to give the credit to but I learned that trick from this site a while back and it is well worth the $1.40 or so I spent for the pin. |
| I use a regular pin pushed in from the other side of the hole and support the detent while pushing it in with the pin I want to use. I just made a huge order with brownells and figured I would give the tool a shot. Total waste of the $20. Best way to see if something works is to try it. I tried it and my go to method still stands. The clevis pin works also. I tried using the pin that came with the tool but the knurling wouldn't let it enter the hole enough to use it like it was meant to be used. So its a double failure situation on the tool. |
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Quoted:
+2 on the Clevis pin. I am not sure who to give the credit to but I learned that trick from this site a while back and it is well worth the $1.40 or so I spent for the pin. Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Instead of that pivot pin detent tool, i found that a 1/4" clevis pin from any hardware store works just as well. You slide it in from the opposite side that the pivot pin is installed from, line up the first hole in the clevis pin with the hole for the detent, drop in the spring and detent, press them in with a small punch until you can rotate the clevis pin. This will capture the spring and detent. Then push the clevis pin out with the pivot pin. This works great for the price of the clevis pin. Since they arn't held to close tolerance and usually chrome plated, you may have to clean the clevis pin up with some emory cloth to get it to fit correctly.
+2 on the Clevis pin. I am not sure who to give the credit to but I learned that trick from this site a while back and it is well worth the $1.40 or so I spent for the pin. +3 Like it was made for an AR. |
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Quoted:
I use a regular pin pushed in from the other side of the hole and support the detent while pushing it in with the pin I want to use. I just made a huge order with brownells and figured I would give the tool a shot. Total waste of the $20. Best way to see if something works is to try it. I tried it and my go to method still stands. The clevis pin works also. I tried using the pin that came with the tool but the knurling wouldn't let it enter the hole enough to use it like it was meant to be used. So its a double failure situation on the tool. This works and it's a cheap hardware store part. http://www.eaglearmory.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=276 Sometimes I use a knife blade to hold back the detent. |
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Quoted:
I typically used a box cutter blade for the pivot pin and it works without too much drama. However, this tool from Brownells works like a charm if you're still looking for a tool... Link Werd Needle nose pliers to get it started, razor blade to hold it down, insert pin, win |
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my detent kit from Brownells has worked flawlessly on all my lowers. But then again I buy quality lowers. Quality lower has nothing to do with it. The tool shown fits basically where the front lug of an upper fits. Well at least its supposed to. Its to wide to go into the gap and then the pin to run the detent through is to short to get the holes to line up. Lowers tried were SA&A, , Colt, and Armalite that I had laying around. Had to take the pin out of the Colt to try it then put it back in. Detent kits for the most part are the same, Although I did get some in a M&A parts kit back in the day that were real soft and didn't hold up at all. |
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