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Posted: 6/9/2013 8:45:39 AM EDT
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Flash Hider Part Number BL-3P flash hider
What is the best position to time this device? How do I hold it? There are no flats present. Can I use a jam nut instead of a crush washer? |
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AAC states the timing their three prong flash hider is unnecessary. The end is open so there isn't much that escaping gasses can do (or be directed to do) that will change the behavior of the rifle. That said, many time it for aesthetic purposes. If this is the case, you might want to place one open section straight down. You can purchase timing shims from PWS here. Edit: As for holding it during install, it's a $10.00 part. Just use vice grips. A good three prong flash hider can cost $100 and comes with "$90" flats for your convenience. |
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I have never bothered with timing one, just put it on til tight. Some people like to time them so that one of the prongs is TDC.
This is the correct tool for installing: http://www.innovativeindustriesllc.com/products/ar-15-combo-wrench I have used a strap wrench to tighten mine. None have come loose. Use a lock washer with it, that is the way they were originally installed. |
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Thanks, so it's the
strap wrench and a jam nut (CNC warrior) Reasonable: $5 + $2.50 shipping. i am going with the jam nut because my end goal is to install an ares armor effin a compensator. The three prong flash hider is temporary until I meticulously break-in the stainless barrel. |
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Quoted:
You do not need to "clock" a 3-prong flash hider. Use either a crush washer of conventional split lock washer. The proper tool to use is the one at the bottom of this picture. http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/IMG_17453.JPG Hey, that's a nice wrench; I've been using a large slotted screw driver, but I don't tighten as much as I like for fear of bending the prongs. Where could one acquire that tool? And the top wrench in the picture; does that allow barrel nut installation/removal without fighting the slip ring spring? |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
You do not need to "clock" a 3-prong flash hider. Use either a crush washer of conventional split lock washer. The proper tool to use is the one at the bottom of this picture. http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/IMG_17453.JPG Hey, that's a nice wrench; I've been using a large slotted screw driver, but I don't tighten as much as I like for fear of bending the prongs. Where could one acquire that tool? And the top wrench in the picture; does that allow barrel nut installation/removal without fighting the slip ring spring? I got the top wrench from Numrich Gun Parts some years back. Its the old GI barrel wrench that was issued when there were still 3 prong hiders in the field. The top one is the current GI wrench which I modified by adding longer pins made from drill rod. It allows better engagement with certain FF barrel nuts where the gas tube notches/holes are slightly recessed into the barrel nut. Works perfectly for Hogue FF hand guards so you don't need to use a strap wrench on the outside of the nut. |
| I guess it's not kosher, but I just installed one with a crush washer. It would not time with a prong at the top, so I used a sanding wheel and gently and carefully removed a little of the base surface on the suppressor so it tightened in the correct spot. A little cold blue for touch-up and it looks perfect. It was an $8 item, kind of hard to get hurt if I messed it up. |
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Quoted:
I guess it's not kosher, but I just installed one with a crush washer. It would not time with a prong at the top, so I used a sanding wheel and gently and carefully removed a little of the base surface on the suppressor so it tightened in the correct spot. A little cold blue for touch-up and it looks perfect. It was an $8 item, kind of hard to get hurt if I messed it up. How the heck could you not time it using a crush washer? Once it is snug, you get almost two complete turns of any muzzle device before you run out of "crush." |
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